Got my fridge...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f172/fridge-time-rig-arb-112306/

The 12v outlet in the dash of course is not live all the time, only when the key is on.

In my 4Runner I had wired yo in the cab a dual 12v outlet that accepted the 12v plugs, and it was hot all the time.

I want to do this differently, and tap into the in cab fusebox with one of these taps I posted awhile back.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/cool-site-fuse-taps-more-112093/



I could just take the 10' 12v cord that came with the fridge and cut the end of it off and wire it up to one of these fuse taps, but I would rather not.

The stock ARB 12v extension is 16 gauge, and the fuse tap above has a 5" 12 gauge wire on it with a 10 amp fuse.

What I want to do is use a 12v extension cord.
I had one that I use to use with my old 3 way camping fridge, but I can not find it.
Here is what I am talking about.
http://www.mobile-mart.com/product.aspx?sku=79717



Most you find in stores are coiled, a straight cord is 100% better, as you can hide it under your door thresholding much better.

They do not list the gauge on the above extension, but my fridge only draws 2.5 amps at maximum power while running at 12v.

Would I be safe running the extension cord and the 10' ARB one?
I do plan on cutting off the end of the bought extension cord and tapping it to that fuse tap and also ground the other wire near by.

______________________________

Update

OK, now I just found this on the site where I ordered my fridge base from last night.
This is a Koolatron one that auto shuts off the 12v feed if it detects the rigs power slipping down to 11v.
http://www.compactappliance.com/xq/J...ct/product.htm


Looks like if I go with this one, all would have to do is cut the male plug end off and tap it to the fuse tap that goes to my fuse box, then run the ARB 12v extension cord upto it.

Everything would be concealed making for a clean install.

Dang, it looks like I am answering my own thread here.
That happens every once in awhile

Anyways, I hope this info can be handy for someone else.

I will do a write-up at a later date when I get the fridge completely installed.

 

Just remember at 11 volts your battery is dead


http://www.autobatteries.com/basics/voltage1.asp

 

How long do you plan to run the fridge at any one time? The 2.7 max amp draw will give you some good duration but I don't think running it off the main battery is the best idea.

Your safety cord is not going to leave enough voltage for a cold start but at 2.7 amps on the Panasonic stock battery should give you roughly 30 hours before the battery drops far enough it won't start the FJ. And that's 30 hours for just the fridge.

You would be much better off putting in an Optima Yellow Top. Or did you do that already?

From my rough calculations it looks like you can do it but it doesn't leave enough safety margin on the single battery for me. A good test I've used is putting the battery on the concrete floor (cold and can suck a battery dry in a few days or so) and actually run the load and see when it kicks the safety switch. There are so many variables I have calculations that very 8 hours.

 

Thanks.
No yellow top yet, but it is on my list.

Will just run a single battery for now, unless I can get a complete kit and some help wiring it all up.

I would just run it for overnight if camped somewhere, then the rig would be started to charge it back up.
It would never be running for a full 30 hours on its own.

Also will use this when going on runs this summer.
Nothing like pulling out a box of ice cream sandwiches for the gang when we stop for lunch

I would like to step up to a dual Optima setup one day, but will probably pick up one to replace the Panasonic over the next few months.

Wayne, you would not happen to know which empty fuse slot in the in cab fuse box has a live port would you?
I ordered two of those fuse taps last night, and will put one into a slot that is live all the time so the key will not have to be on when I am stopped during a run.

 

I have to reconfigure my kayak rack today so I'll get my meter out and snap you a pic of the "hot all the time" slot.

 

Thanks Wayne, I really appreciate it.

 

Here ya go;

12v+ constant is second row second socket over from the left.

12v ignition switched is bottom row far right.

 

Thank you sir!

That will come in handy once all my stuff arrives from the man in brown next week.

Looks like I have a weekend project coming up.
Just found on my FSM CD how to remove the rear seatback too in case I bolt that Slide Loc tray to the back of the seat and not the cargobox.

 

Well crap...
After reading here how that item I bought that turns off the power when it gets down to 11v (battery considered dead already) I may go with this afterall.



I would like to install a 12v outlet much like the one now in the front lower dash, but I do not feel like drilling up the interior.

I have seen some nice installs in the FJ console at the back of it, but I think if I get one of these cords, I will just have it in the back and easy to get to, and just plug in the fridge back there.

 

Why not go for adding the two above the 115v inverter. It is a perfect place for them and it looks very OEM.

 

I would like to do that, but it is beyond my skill I think to cut that up back there.
But it sure would look good

Where do you get the parts for that?

 

Does your FJ have the Inverter and 110 in the back?

 

Yes it does, but it only works with the motor on.
Running the fridge on 12v is a better deal since the engine does not have to be on.

The inverter is both 100 and 400 watts.
I think when you are parked it puts out 400 watts, and when driving it cuts down to 100 watts.

 

gotcha, i guess the key has to be on with mine as well....

Be sure to use oversized wire. We had one of the engel fridges melt wires on an OEM 12v plug years ago... I am sure that toyota wires are better, but with a run that long you need to go a size or two larger.

 

Thanks.
The stock ARB 10' cord is 16 gauge.
If I add the cord that is hot all the time, might be best to step to 14 gauge.
Will need about 15' or so.

 

I would rather hard wire in a new 12v outlet, running it from the battery immediately to a fuse, then run wire to a fuse block inside the rig, and then to a 12v outlet, then in the future you can run other wires from the fuse block as well. Well that is what I did any way.

On another note, the 30hr figure, probably does not take into account that your fridge will not be running at 100% duty cycle (unless maybe it is at max freezing setting), so you should get even more running time.

 

I am leaning towards that, that would be the pro way to do it, and not have any cords dangling anywhere.

 

Heres a question, what is required to run one of these fridges? Does it come with a simple 12v plug that is good enough? Or does it need to be hardwired with a larger gauge wire than is typical of of standard 12 plug? For instance I have an aux power outlet on the rear of my runner for starting a 12.5hp Ingersol Rand ari compressor. using either 0 ot 1 gauge wire.

 

It runs better at 12v, so you would need a constant 12v.
It comes with both 12 and 110v cords that unplug from the unit.

It does not take much after you click it on to get it down to the safe food temp zone either.
I am really impressed with it.

 

I think they all run at less than 5 amps (real fridge/freezers like /arb/Norcold/waeco), so they could run off any standard 12v outlet, using samll gauge wire ie. 14-18 gauge (or maybe even smaller), you'd have to check the wire/amperage charts. Your 0/1 should be able to run about 20+ of em