Ok i have 1991 4runner with 3 inch body and 31x10.50s. The rear of the 4runner of course sags. I want to go bigger but I have been crawling some hills lately and it does great now but there are some I cant do and dont want to risk a roll over so if i did a four inch suspension procomp lift or would it make it worse or better. Or if i just get a 1.5 " spring and a 2.5" spacer for the rear will the front me lower then and if so is there anyway to make it higher? Which would be better?
Thanks
Tom

 

First thing I would do if you're gonna be doing a lot of crawling is do a SAS. If not that, then a stiffer suspension. Also, you'd probably want a supsension lift anyway for the extra room. I've heard good things about the Pro Comp stage 2 4" lift, but the 4" Superlift keeps the CV angles stock.

 

Why the heck do you have a 3 inch POS (read: body) lift to clear tires that would clear just fine without it???

If you are scared of a rollover now, and you put your COG up higher by lifting it *more* you tell me whether it will be better or worse...

Dude, you have COMPLETELY lost me on this whole thread. I think you need to search a bit more and THEN ask questions. And I don't mean on this site, try a good physics book first...

 

LOL I think it'll get better

 

May I suggest that before you modify your truck, go on a couple trail rides with a club so that you can learn what works and what doesn't. It sounds like you're not ready for a SAS and I wouldn't do that anyway. You need to learn what your IFS can do and what it can't do. Learning on an IFS will teach you how to pick the best lines and the best techniques for getting through an obstacle.

Get the downey 1.5 inch HD coils to cure the sag. Don't do anything with the front, yet. If you're concerned with rolling, then you don't want to raise the CG any higher than you have to. The reason 44runner brought up the 3 inch body lift is because the only reason people put on body lifts is to clear larger tires. Actually, the biggest reason to put on any lift is to fit bigger tires, not for ground clearance, that is secondary.

If you're really concerned about rolling, then get rid of the body lift. You can fit 32s with no lift, and 33s with the downey coils, crank the tbars slightly, and a 1inch body lift. I'm not sure, but you might even be able to fit 33s with your 3inch body lift.

You will make your truck worlds more capable if you just add a locker to the rear, and that's about the same cost as a 4inch lift.

After you've learned what your basically stock 4runner can and can't do, then you can move up to more expensive lifts, like an SAS.

Incase nobody has said it yet, welcome to the board.

Steve

 

Hey guys, go easy on him, we were all new at one time and this isn't Pirate.

And why would he want a stiffer suspension for rockcrawling?

 

so does the pro comp stage 2 4inch lift

 

3" body lift is way too high if you ask me. I have 32's right now with my Downey HD coils and cranked torsion bars. The Downey springs are a lot stiffer than the stock spring and help a lot with body lean in the rear - there shouldn't be a of of body lean in the front with torsion bars. I wheeled with my sway bars disconnected recently and the rear flexed a lot better than stock.

Do you have a clinometer of some sort? Toyota recommends no more than 30 degrees tilt which is a lot more tilt than your gut will make you think you are doing. In other words - as long as you are going slow there isn't a lot of momentum to roll you over. Wheel with some buddies and watch how their rigs handle over the obstacles - it will surprise you how capable your truck can be.

If you do the Downey HD springs in the rear and crank your torsion bars to level it then all you need is 1-1.5" of body lift and pounding the body seam flat. Take your current lift blocks to a machine shop and have them cut down or better yet get with Roger Brown on this board and let him sell you one of his kits.

Got pics of your rig?

 

Ok I just put the body lift on for looks right now. I havnt bought bigger tires which plan to be 33s. I was just wondering if a 4 inch susupension with 35s would be better for climbing or should I leave the COG lower with 3 inch body and 33s or maybe go with 4 inch suspension and take off the 3 inch body. Not really new i just wrote it wrong.
Tom

 

You can clear 33's with the Downey HD's, cranked torsion bars, and smaller body lift.

35's will require a lot of work - trimmed fenders, 4 inch lift, front drive shaft mods (possibly rear), etc.

 

4 inch suspension with the 3 inch body would clear 35s easily wouldnt it?

 

Well, like I said, you will get waayy more bang for you buck if you put in a locker. Bigger tires don't help THAT much, compared to a locker. You can also try disconnecting your sway bar for better articulation.

If you just want better looks, then sure, go ahead and put on 35s, but you won't do much better off road. With 35s you'll definately have to regear, othewise you'll have no power.

Steve

 

Yeah I know I'm getting a locker also but I guess I am just going to level the truck out with the hd spring and maybe 33s with 4.88 gearing. If I disconnect the sway bar isnt that kinda risky or is easy to disconnect and put back on?
Tom

 

Which tranny and engine do you have? Usually, V6 auto trannies have 4.88s from the factory. To be sure, check out the 4runner FAQ to decipher the codes.

You'll get a lot of debate on whether disconnecting the sway bar on the street is dangerous. Personally, I like to keep it connected for the street so I made some quick disconnects. I just have to pull a pin and it's disconnected. People will say you just have to slow down and expect more body roll on the street, but I'm more concerned about emergancy maneuvers. At the same time, lots of people just throw away their sway bars and don't think twice about it. It's your call.

Steve

 

Can you show pictures of how you have thee quick disconnecting sway bars. Also I have the v6 but are the diffs 3.something?
Tom

 

4 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift will clear 35's but man that is a high center of gravity. Also - if you go with 33's and 5.29's you'll have great gearing for rock crawling.

 

What I'm getting at is that you should use the least amount of lift necesary to get the tires you want on. The double cardan joints on the IFS trucks will need to be motified to allow that much movement and you can't shim the rear axle to improve driveshaft angles so you'll almost certainly get driveshaft vibrations at highway speeds. Go to the reader's rides area and see what everyone else is running. There are only 2 IFS trucks with 35's that look like a lot of thought was put into their buildup. The one that I admire is Flygenstein.

 

Sway bar discos, scroll down, you'll see it.

Gear ratios scroll down to #4. You definately do not have 3.XX diffs. The lowest (numerically) toyota trucks have is 4.10s.

 

Ok on your sway bar disconnects how does it work you pull the pin out and then what?

 

What limits the sway bars is the downward movement - not upward. By pulling the pin under the bar the bar can move down the shaft. This will allow that side of the truck to stuff the tire higher in the fender and allow the other side of the truck to have more movement.