Illuminated switches getting HOTTTTT!!!
#1
Illuminated switches getting HOTTTTT!!!
Not sure if there is a propper section for this question, so I will put it here.
I have some Illuminated switches that I got from Autozone. They power my Offroad lights (6" Procomps 100watt), Master flow Air Compressor, and rear tractore light, respectively.
I notice that when I leave any item on for a long time the switch gets quite hot to the touch. Did I do something wrong or is this normal for the switches. Everything works fine and the wires don't appear to be melting.
Here' how I wired them:
I hooked a wire to the fuse block in the kick panel, ran it to the switches and split it 3 ways to each of the switches, each of the switches is grounded to the chasis. Then each switch has a wire that runs through the firewall.
In the engine bay, each item has a relay that powers said item. I used relays to keep any high voltage outside of the cab, but now with the hot switches, I am afraid of fire.
Any suggestions.
I have some Illuminated switches that I got from Autozone. They power my Offroad lights (6" Procomps 100watt), Master flow Air Compressor, and rear tractore light, respectively.
I notice that when I leave any item on for a long time the switch gets quite hot to the touch. Did I do something wrong or is this normal for the switches. Everything works fine and the wires don't appear to be melting.
Here' how I wired them:
I hooked a wire to the fuse block in the kick panel, ran it to the switches and split it 3 ways to each of the switches, each of the switches is grounded to the chasis. Then each switch has a wire that runs through the firewall.
In the engine bay, each item has a relay that powers said item. I used relays to keep any high voltage outside of the cab, but now with the hot switches, I am afraid of fire.
Any suggestions.
#2
hot to the touch?
(pics are not visible from work) as long as you are sure the relays are wired correctly - power for device is NOT going through the switch - it could be a bad switch (or just cheap)
you only need a 12V signal from the switch to the relay and power for the lamp.
(pics are not visible from work) as long as you are sure the relays are wired correctly - power for device is NOT going through the switch - it could be a bad switch (or just cheap)
you only need a 12V signal from the switch to the relay and power for the lamp.
#4
I'm only running whatever amount of power is in the cab already. I believe I took power from the dome or stereo. I forget which. Should be 12v.
Maybe it is a bad switch. I don't really care about the heat (Yes, hot to the touch). Woudl it be bad to leave as is, or shoudl I go get a new switch?
Maybe it is a bad switch. I don't really care about the heat (Yes, hot to the touch). Woudl it be bad to leave as is, or shoudl I go get a new switch?
#7
Check the +12V wire coming out of your switch and to the relay in the engine compartment with an ammeter. you'll have to place the ammeter in line, preferrably on the 10A setting. If you see anything bigger than 1 to 2A, I'd start worrying.
you might hvae some sort of mild short between the switch and the ground, not enough to blow a fuse, but enough to draw excess current, that's what you're checking with the ammeter.
you might hvae some sort of mild short between the switch and the ground, not enough to blow a fuse, but enough to draw excess current, that's what you're checking with the ammeter.
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#8
#9
Seth, the switches I got from Autozone are the 3-pole variety with a very small LED light at the top and they don't get hot at all.
I would take one of those wires and try it out on a different power source.
I would take one of those wires and try it out on a different power source.
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