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Changing Valve Cover Gaskets

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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 02:47 PM
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Changing Valve Cover Gaskets

Anything special I need to know before tackling the drivers side valve cover gasket on my 3.slow? I'm really hoping that is where the leak is. It sure looks like it. The leak runs down onto the exhaust manifold and you can guess what happens after that..Looks pretty straight forward but it usually does till I start turning wrenches.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 02:56 PM
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From: So MS
Driver side's a piece a cake.Other side sucks.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 03:17 PM
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Ya it looks pretty easy especially since I have the ISR mod and all that airbox crap is outta the way. I have both gaskets and probably should replace em both but I'm just gonna do the drivers side for now I think.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 03:22 PM
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I like to put a bead of RTV on the new gasket to help ensure a good seal.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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I put a bit of RTV in the corners where the flat surface on the back of the head meets the curved part. Hope that makes sense.

Last edited by DH6twinotter; Jan 24, 2007 at 06:42 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:29 PM
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You must have jinxed me, because I spotted an oil leak on my ds valve cover too...
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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First you would want to get an engine hoist. Second prep 3.0 for pulling out. Third, acquire 3.4. You know the rest...

DS is cake....like previously stated....make sure you put RTV in the bottoms of the half moon shapes at front and rear. PROPERLY TORQUE or you'll be doing it again. I overtorqued mine and they leaked like crazy.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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From: INDIANA
I did both of mine a few weekends ago pass side sucks that was the one leaking for me.
get new bolts one of mine snapped off before it even got to torque.
in the fsm it says to put a dab of sealant on the corners
look under cylinder head page32 or 41
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:47 PM
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I've had problems with the bolts breaking and stripping out before reaching torque specs as well. You can use longer bolts in some of the holes. When I said that I prefer to put a bead of RTV on the new gasket, I meant the whole thing. Not just the corners. I must have warped covers because mine are a pain in the arse to seal up. They need all the help they can get.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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Did mine about 2 years ago when I had a 3.0L.

Here's the link with pics:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...+gasket+troy65

Hope it helps!

Troy

Last edited by YotaJunky; Jan 24, 2007 at 07:05 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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Oil-leakenest engine in the world, I swear. RTV essencial, Murphy says "can leak, will". Get ready for the other side, then $#@!n' camshaft seals. Enjoy!

Last edited by MudHippy; Jan 24, 2007 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:11 PM
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And DON'T FORGET the anti-seize lubricant. Snapped a bolt pre-torque myself. No more bolts in aluminum without.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Thanks for all the input.. this is just the info I was looking for. Something as simple as changing out a valve cover gasket can always be complicated. Troy65 great link! My engine was dry for the first 5 years and 75K I put on it. It wasn't until I got the Taco a few months back and stopped driving it everyday it started springing leaks. I think she's begging for attention.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 06:53 AM
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i've paid for this job 2 times now; once at a small shop at 75k, recently at my local dealership while in for the steering recall...115k. the mess of spaghetti under the hood always keeps me out of there!

watch out for the cam seals as well as the valve covers.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 08:04 AM
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What are the torque specs for these bolts? I haven't been able to find that, even in my FSM for my '92.

Jason
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:45 PM
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Just dont overtighten them. They shouldn't be much more than hand tight to avoid crushing the gasket. I did mine today in about an hour. Some of the bolts are a PIA the ass to get to but not that bad. I couldn't believe how clean it looked under my valve cover. Guess that's what changing your oil every 3000 religiously the entire life of a vehicle will do. Here's a pic



You can see in the lower rear corner where it started leaking. I gooped the corners pretty good with RTV sealant when I put it back together.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:50 PM
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Yeah, looks good under there!

I put in my new gaskets a week or so ago when I got to that step in putting things back together after my head gasket replacement. I tightened the cover bolts down pretty tight... probably too tight. I had to go back in to do one step I found out I had forgotten, and when I put it back together I was a lot more gentle with the gasket.

My question now is, did I damage the gasket and now need to replace it, or am I okay since I caught it and fixed it right away? There was no obvious damage to the gasket...
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
You probably smashed it some and if that's the case it's done. All depends on how tight you went. If it doesnt' leak run it but if your at a place where it's still partially torn apart might be worth the $25 and piece of mind to just go ahead and replace em again while they are easy to get to.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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Okay, I might do that...

Just to be clear: these should seriously be only a little tighter than finger-tight? They might still be too tight.

Jason
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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Bump... can anyone confirm?
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