95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

TRD Clutch for 3rd Gen Manual

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Old May 3, 2003 | 03:07 PM
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TRD Clutch for 3rd Gen Manual

Well, it seems as though I might be looking for a new clutch in the near future. When I downshift hard, and go to engage the clutch, it sorta feels like when your rotors are warped--Kind of slips and catches. Also, it doesn't engage smoothly when pulling a load(trailer, ect) or under extreme acceleration. I have done my best to research the possible clutches available to us, and have come up with a list including: OEM, TRD, CenterForce Dual Friction, and Marlin. So far, I have'nt been able to locate the CenterForce or the Marlin for my application. Also it seems that most of the people putting Marlin's on are the hard core off-roaders. I mostly drive on-road and don't do much rock climbing.

So, right now, I'm comparing the OEM and the TRD models. Has anyone upgraded to the TRD? If so, how do you like it and what's the difference.? It seems to be a strong arguement for the OEM that it has lasted as long as it has, but if I'm going to go through the expense of replacing the thing I sure do want to do it with the best equipment possible. Thank you for the benefit of your collective experience.

Last edited by Sucellus; May 3, 2003 at 03:28 PM.
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Old May 3, 2003 | 05:45 PM
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The TRD is over priced as usual and no one can verify who really makes it. The best guess is Centerforce. I think that is what I have in mine now and it generally sucks. It does not have enough grip and I can burn it on hard acceleration.

I have an ACT in the basement waiting to go in on my engine swap if I ever get that done.

Try giving Brian a call at www.F2uning.com and see if they can hook you up with a deal on an ACt clutch. They have one in that ProCharger 4Runner they are building and they all say it is great. I was there when it was installed and it is the 6 puck type with a solid hub. Mine is solid with a sprung hub, but uses the same pressure plate.

Be sure to tell Brian I sent you.

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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:01 PM
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Right On!
Thanks Gadget!
Great info, I'll do exactly that. I have been looking for a good answer to this for a while. I've heard good things about ACT and F2uning as well. So, I'll definately give them a call. That pro-charger project looks pretty fun. I'm taking it to have it looked at on Tuesday, so I'll have a better Idea of what all I need. Good to know that it takes the standard pressure plate, I guess I'll get mine resurfaced if I can, but if not, Concelli seems to have good prices on the OEM stuff.
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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:14 PM
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The ACT clutches come with the clutch plate, pressure plate, alingnment tool, and pilot & throw out bearings.

It is the fly wheel that you will need to have resurfaced. Get the machine shop to tell you how much they will have to take off to clean it up. There is a limit and you do not want to exceed that. The more you take off the fly wheel the less clamp pressure the pressure plate can exert. You might just want to get a new OEM fly wheel. That is what I am going to do since mine was resurfaced once before.

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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:15 PM
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Hey Old Man-

How does this "super star" clutch apply to 2.7 liter of pury fury. I am going to have Marlin put his Japaneese made "nice clutch" in. Any reason the 4 cylinders of fury should get the real hum dinger.

Yeah a 3RZ-FE swap would be awasome! No more belts. Chains all the way.

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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:29 PM
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Who is calling who old? I mean everything still works on COMMMAND, I just can't remember what to do with it.

It is my guess that the clutches would be the same. Check the ACT website applications and see. Hell with that light 2.7 you could probably snatch a wheely with a good clutch.

Do you have any shackle hangers left?

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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:31 PM
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Yes. For you I do.
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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:36 PM
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You know I can't email you do to your nasty blocking software. Can you email me your # so I can call and work out the details?

Gadget@GadgetOnline.com

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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:44 PM
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Originally posted by Gadget
It is the fly wheel that you will need to have resurfaced.
DOH! Sorry, had that written down in my notes, but am still learning about clutches....

Originally posted by Gadget
[B]The ACT clutches come with the clutch plate, pressure plate, alingnment tool, and pilot & throw out bearings.
Good to know. So, if I were to get the ACT Kit, these would probably be the extras to pick up:

Rear main seal
Flywheel
Clutch flex hose

These are things that people have suggested be replaced at the same time, as (except for the flywheel) they're not expensive. Would you recommend replacing the:

release fork?
ring gear?

Or are these things that don't wear out that often. The reason I ask is that I had a 79 Dodge pickup at one time and the release fork broke, and the only way to shift it was to match engine speeds (which I tend to do anyway) but it was a real pain to get it started from a stop....So, I was thinking since they're not that expensive I might preventatively replace them as well?
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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:50 PM
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You could inspect the fork when you break it down and then decide, but I have not heard of that being an issue on these trucks.

The starter ring is part of the fly wheel.

If you do the rear main seal be damn careful. The best way to do it is to remove the entire aluminum thing that holds the seal replace the seal in that and then replace it as a unit. If you try to dig out the seal in place and you put the slightest nick in the crank shaft you will never get it to stop leaking until you replace the crank shaft. I have indeed seen this happen way to many times.

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Old May 3, 2003 | 06:54 PM
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Old Geezer-

Arizonans would have went up Dictums ridge.

You took the best line, those other guys really took dumb lines.

That's 1/2 the battle, driver skill.

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Old May 3, 2003 | 07:11 PM
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I was a ride along when the EC4RJ went up Dictums. That was the famous day when the 2nd Gen stalled on the big rock and would not restart. A hell of a time for the fuel pump to fail. That is when he gave the worlds best advertisement for Optima Batteries.

I will make you a deal. If you go up, I will follow. What you can't see from the vid is that it is right on the edge of a cliff. If you slip off of the obstical you will flip over 100 times going down the cliff.

Like I said if you lead I will follow. Maybe this time I might scuff my new powder coated sliders.

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Old May 3, 2003 | 07:32 PM
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Keep in mind at that point I will have 223 to 1. Maybe you should not follow.



The thing will go up a wall. With 5.29 gears it's already considerably better.

With the MC09 all you'll have to do is steer. Heck see how mine goes and pick one up yourself.

It's only money, you'll make more. And you though speed was expensive..................
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Old May 3, 2003 | 07:35 PM
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Originally posted by Gadget
Maybe this time I might scuff my new powder coated sliders.
AZ will scuff those puppies. Too bad we can't "beam" you out here for a weekend.



:alien: :alien: :alien: :alien: :alien:
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Old May 3, 2003 | 07:52 PM
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Originally posted by sschaefer3
Keep in mind at that point I will have 223 to 1. Maybe you should not follow.



The thing will go up a wall. With 5.29 gears it's already considerably better.

With the MC09 all you'll have to do is steer. Heck see how mine goes and pick one up yourself.

It's only money, you'll make more. And you though speed was expensive..................
Interesting.

Are you going to make this years jam? If so I think I will need a demonstration-explination of its real value.

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Old May 3, 2003 | 08:57 PM
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Originally posted by Gadget
You might just want to get a new OEM fly wheel. That is what I am going to do since mine was resurfaced once before.

Gadget

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Gadget,
I was looking around for flywheels and noticed that NWOR makes a heavyweight flywheel for the 2nd gens. On our third gens, would a heavier flywheel be desireable? If so, have you seen any around?
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Old May 4, 2003 | 07:18 AM
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It depends on how you use your truck whether a heavier fly wheel woud be of benifit or not.

If you have a manual and are doing rock crawling it would be of a benifit as you truck would be less likely to stalling. If you drive mainly on the roads, it may make your truck feel more sluggish on acceleration. If you are a drag racer you certainly don't want a heavier fly wheel, a lighter one would be better for that.

The stock one is pretty heavy to start with.

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Old May 4, 2003 | 09:37 AM
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Steve, I recommend you get the more aggressive flywheel machining with your Marlin clutch. I went with the stock 22 thousands machining and I wish I went with Marlin's recommendation for aggressive grabbing. 26 thousandths would grab a little harder initially I think - my engagement feels very stock although I can't spin it at all.
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Old May 4, 2003 | 09:52 AM
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Are you speaking about the surface finish or the clearences. Remember if you take to much off you have to also match that amount where the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel or you will end up with less clamping pressure from the excessive clearences.

If you are speaking about surface finishes please elaborate more.

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Old May 4, 2003 | 11:22 AM
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Marlin recommends a 26 thousandths step machining. Stock Toyota is 22 thousandths. Having the center section higher puts the disk a lot closer to the pressure plate and makes the clutch grab sooner and harder. That is how he explained it to me. I'm very happy with my clutch.
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