joelsmithdesigns

Rainy weekend here, but I managed to make it up to the shop for a little bit. Got the rear pillar pods done (forgot to take pictures of the finished products or the rest of the process) and got the rear tailgate wiring sorted out and sound proofed as well as made a template for the cover.

Also noticed that my alternator is intermitten (planned on doing the Jaguar swap anyway), but I think it might be caused by the oil leak and the alternator being too "lubed" up to produce anything....or the belt is just loose. Who knows. I've also got a vacuum leak that's causing a pulsing idle again (somewhere in the intake is my guess).....I'll chase that down with a can of starter fluid

I've also pretty much decided to go with multiple sets of the #4 option for the quick release top as it's adjustable, doesn't rely on rubber, and is pretty heavy duty (moreso than other options).

got several things ordered this weekend....more neoprene to cover the dash, the pivot shaft for the rear swing gate, and some odds and ends hardware on the way.



rear cardboard template for the tailgate (already soundproofed) not 100% sure whether I want to cover the top plastic portion in neoprene, or if I should shoot it with bedliner (UPOL Raptor) as it's an odd shape that may be difficult to cover and in a spot that it'll take some abuse



also the handle will need to be plasti-dipped or painted as they don't make this in black, or not that I have found anyway



rear pillar pods....same way I did the front. MDF ring, bondo hair (sanded and smoothed out with grinder) and then bondo to fill in the pits and sanded with a palm sander with 150 grit disc. then covered in fabric.

I'll try and post a picture of the finished parts tomorrow

joelsmithdesigns

Here's some finished shots of the other pillar tweeter pods...

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

I dig all the work you do, man.

joelsmithdesigns

going to have to sort out the oil leaks and alternator issue this week. I'm thinking that there is oil leaking onto the alternator and it's too lubed up to properly charge, but I will probably go ahead and get the Jaguar XJ6 120 amp alternator anyway....still haven't addressed that or the vacuum leak as it was a crazy week and busy weekend.

Beyond that, I started prepping some of the other plastic trim parts in the rig to get them ready to be sprayed with bed liner (UPOL Raptor). and I liked the way the door panels turned out with the neoprene covered uppers and will be doing the upper part of the dash that way as well. The extra dash I had was cracked (like every other one I've seen) so I did a bit of fiberglass work to it to get it smoothed up before covering. I also filled in the recess in the dash up to the Altimeter / inclinometer to make it easier to cover and look more "factory" or intentional. Luckily, I've got an entire other interior lying around so I'm prepping those parts filling in all the holes with fiberglass and then re-drilling them and countersinking that area as it would be almost impossible to spray in some of the crevices with the bed liner. Anyway.....here's a few shots of the little bit of progress I made this Sunday afternoon. (I also got some new billet aluminum locks in from ebay that were supposed to be for an F350, so I had to modify them a bit, but didn't get any pictures of them installed)

joelsmithdesigns

120 amp Jaguar XJ6 alternator comes in today. I'll probably try to get it installed tonight weather permitting and upgrade the wiring to much heavier grade wire while I'm doing it. I'll do a full write up and any mods that need to be made although there are many already out there on this swap. I had initially considering going with the GM one wire conversion, but for the output and price, I really couldn't beat the deal I got on the Jag one.

I've got a little more sanding to do on some of the prepped plastic parts and then onto spraying them with the UPOL raptor bed liner. I also got in the extra Neoprene material I ordered from Wet Okole as well as the Competition 4x4 rear swing gate heavy duty pivot post.

Lots of stuff in the works.....I just need time to get it done.

joelsmithdesigns

having the darndest time trying to get the stupid pulleys swapped on those alternators. pretty much rounded both 10mm nuts and even bought a special wrench intended for an oxygen sensor for the larger outer nut. Going to have to take them up to the shop and see if I can't get them sorted, or maybe even take them into an alternator rebuild shop and just pay the guys to do it. ended up getting the Nippon Denso 120amp jag alternator for around $100, so I suppose I can afford a little bit of a headache doing it myself, or paying someone to swap the pulley's for me (without totally trashing them).

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

Any possible way to take an old belt and clamp it around the pulley and then find a way to clamp that to something immovable? Did that make sense?

joelsmithdesigns

I'm not worried about buggering up the pulley on the jag alternator, so I'll probably just clamp the heck out of it in a bench vice. However, I don't want to mess up the 22RE alternator pulley, so I'll use the old belt (as it stands proud of the outside of the pulley when wrapped around) as well as a rag or something else before clamping it down. Everyone I've talked to says it's a piece of cake once you get the pulley secured and have an impact gun, which I don't have at the house....but have access to one up at the shop.

I had taken a short break from the alternator swap to shoot some UPOL Raptor on some of the plastic panels I had prepped....mainly because I wanted to re-install the door panels once and for all and couldn't do so until I got the map pockets sprayed. I did the map pockets, all the plastic seat parts, the thresholds to the front two doors as well as the rear tailgate and the tailgate top and handle. Unlike Rhino lining or line-x (which is really awesome stuff) the UPOL is much easier to deal with for the do it your selfer and isn't super rubberized, but more like shooting/splattering a hard epoxy over everything. I'm still playing around and trying to get a consistent pattern / spray, but I was VERY happy with the results and plan to do most of the rest of the plastic components that are impossible to cover with fabric (without sewing....and ain't nobody got time for that!).

joelsmithdesigns

I finally got a day I could stop by the shop for a while. I figured I needed an impact and a vice and had an entire rough tote of engine brackets, covers, and other gear that I needed to sand blast (all looking clean and pretty now and ready to prep for paint - These are the brackets I'll use for the other motor that needs to be re-ringed).

Clamped the pulley into a bench vise and used a 1/2" drive impact gun with a 7/8" or 22mm socket and it spun right off (both alternators). the Jaguar alternator shaft is slightly bigger (17mm?") than the OEM Toyota, so you need to open the hole a bit. Since I was at the shop, I went ahead and chucked the pulley up in the metal lathe and used a step bit to open the hole to the right diameter.....checking frequently to make sure it wasn't over-sized. I also had to use a 1/16" washer as a backspacer on the Toyota pulley as it would have contacted and rubbed against the housing without it. Used the impact to shoot it back on and everything was smooth and tight and definitely centered.

Also made a little bit of progress on the interior, ordered some 2" gasket mount marker lights (red and amber) from SuperbrightLED's.com for the upcoming bumper and blinkers for the mirror. More hardware on the way from McMaster so I can mount the door pulls, and might order some winch line or the dual battery kit this week.

I spent a portion of Saturday helping a buddy chase down an loud noise on his '86 4Runner that ended up just being an exhaust leak on the back of his manifold where the rear studs had wiggled loose. we tightened it up, but I'm guessing he'll need to pull the manifold and make sure all of the studs are at the right depth and replace the gaskets.

joelsmithdesigns

So now that I’ve got the 120 amp Jaguar Alternator, I’m looking at upgrading some of the rest of the electrical system. Probably going to go with 4 gauge or 2 gauge primary wire up front and a dual battery setup.

I’ve looked into several of the manufacturers that make these “intelligent solenoids/isolators” and wanted to see if anyone had any first-hand experience with them. I’m wanting something that automagically charges the reserve battery, but disconnects them when not needed, or the primary battery is fully charged. I also would like a monitoring system in the cab so I can see the levels of the batteries. Most of these “Smart” units have an override button or switch that allows you to join the two batteries in the event that your primary battery is hammer dead or has less than the 9v needed to start This would be like basically jump starting yourself at the flick of a switch or push of a button and would be an absolute must in the event lights are left on, a door open, or just a random wire grounded and draining the main battery. I don’t want to get stranded. Another thing I’ve been mulling over is a battery disconnect, potentially from inside a locked compartment of the vehicle (this can be done with a simple marine battery switch (have to run main cable into the cabin and back to the battery), or with a mechanical one mounted in the engine compartment closer to the battery and controlled by a switch in the console or glove box or just hidden really well)

Units I’m considering after a quick search are as follows:

• IBS – Intelligent Battery System (just missed out on a bulk buy with 15% discount on TTORA or one of those “other” sites….darn – seems like a good system
• National Luna Intelligent Solenoid – wouldn’t buy the “kit” as I’ll be upgrading all of the other components, but I really like their recessed monitor / remote jump kit
• Painless Wiring Dual battery Kit – haven’t heard great things and you have to buy extra components for the remote jump feature and no monitor
• RedArc - ???
• True smart isolator???
• Piranha????
• Battery Doctor???

I could always hook up some voltage meters like this if needed….





Electrical loads planned (I can’t think of a situation where all (or even most of them) would be running at the same time

• Warn 8274 with an XD9000 motor and an Albright or Warn contactor (Maybe a rear Warn M8000 as well)
• 6 sets of Piaa lights (fog, driving, projection, rally, roof, and connected to the backup lights, etc – not all would be on at the same time and some may get converted to LED to reduce load) – all run off an auxiliary fuse / relay panel
• 3 Amplifiers totaling maybe 1000 watts – 2 sets of components and 2 10” subs in full active (capacitor may be used for the sub amp…haven’t calculated yet) GPS Double Din head unit
• Potentially a CB radio
• Possibly a power inverter for some plugs in the back for camping / etc.
• Maybe an On Board Air compressor, but I’d have a tank if I went that route and wouldn’t run it with other components of the system
• NO ELECTRIC FAN!!!

Does Anyone have first hand experience with any of these units? Any advice, or things to be weary of? I'm not an electrician (but understand loads and seeing the list above, realize I need dual batteries) and don't really want to have my rig go up in flames.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

I believe a member on t4r.com named Dirtco is going to be running the Luna system on his 99 runner. No personal experience there. However, with all the mods you have planned I wouldn't think you'd need a dual battery setup. he never needed it and he'd run his stereo, with all his lights and winch. I know optima batteries have turned to junk as of late, but I think if you dropped some coin on a nice quality battery like an odyssey, you should be good. I had a rebranded odyssey (diehard platinum) in my old tacoma and I killed that battend several times and it kept charging right back up.

Just my .02

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

Also, most guys usually upgrade their ground wires to 0 size while doing electrical work. Probably a good idea for you. Called "The Big Three Mod".

joelsmithdesigns

Yeah, I'm definitely upgrading all the main cable, but was probably only going up to 2 gauge. I'd do 0 gauge if I was moving the batteries to the back so the current didn't drop over the length of the cable, but think that 2 gauge would be plenty for what I'm doing.

I've already got the two optima batteries despite the drop in their quality or them being made by Johnson Controls out of Mexico....the main mistake I see most people make is having two high current batteries instead of one high current and one deep cycle. My main reason for wanting to go to a dual battery setup is to be able to jump myself off and not get stranded (and adding up the loads on the extra accessories, I definitely needed an upgraded alternator and better electrical system).

joelsmithdesigns

I went ahead and ordered the National Luna Smart Solenoid with a recessed controller from Sierra Expeditions.

Ordering Fastronics Military grade terminals and 2 gauge wire for the upgrade and some 4 gauge wire and quick disconnects to run power to the winch. Also got some 100 amp mega fuses and holders and some other terminals, heat shrink, and everything else I should need for the upgrade.

I'll keep everyone posted and maybe even try to do a quick layout of the electrical system if I get a chance.

I've got to help a buddy get his radiator swapped out tomorrow, and some other work I need to do this weekend, but will go ahead and try to install that alternator and get the other issues ironed out before the rest of the gear comes in.

joelsmithdesigns

I had an interesting situation pop up this last week. I had a close family friend call me from the mechanic's shop after his 1996 Chevy C1500 truck started overheating. He literally had to stop three times on the way to the shop to keep filling up the radiator just to get it down there, and even then, it was just raining fluid from the radiator.

The reason he was calling me was because the shop had run a few tests and pulled some engine codes and told him that he had a blown headgasket, his entire cooling system was "shot" and he needed a new radiator. They also told him that he shouldn't drive it at all, and it would be around $2500 for them to fix all the major issues and get him back on the road. He knew that over the course of my "journey" with the 4Runner, I had experienced some major engine issues and wanted to get my opinion on whether or not it was worth it, or even if he could pay me 1/2 of what the shop was asking for to do the headgaskets myself over the weekend. I told him to pull the dipstick and see if the oil on it looked more like brown grey crawfish mud or more like oil on a dipstick. It looked like normal oil and so we decided to try and limp it to his office parking lot (close by in town) where I could take a look at it when I was free this weekend.

I poured a little bit of water in the radiator and instantly saw it raining on the pavement. Pulled the radiator, inspected it pretty thoroughly and decided that since it was the standard plastic capped aluminium type, and they often crack on the plastic ends due to heat and temperature changes, to go pick up an new one just in case ($150). While looking at the original one, I couldn't find any cracks or leaks (that would be allowing water to pour out like I was seeing). However, I did notice that whatever type of plug was supposed to be in the bottom, was broken and had plastic parts falling out of it. Of course this was a GM Specialty part and the parts department with that exact same replacement at the stealership was already closed......I decided to try and cobble some type of plug together at the parts store when picking up the radiator. I got a PCV valve grommet (was about the right size for the hole) and a "universal" oil drain plug that worked like a drywall toggle anchor (both parts around $5 total). Managed to get that setup to work on the old radiator and tossed it back in the truck.

The thing ran like a top, no cooling issues, you could still drain the radiator, no problems. $5 and 30 minutes of work for someone that bothered to look and see what they were doing. I'm guessing the shop tried to pressure test the radiator and it wasn't holding any pressure at all. I'm not sure if there is some type of pressure sensor in the computer system that would also be checking this and throw a code for zero pressure in the coolant system, but making the jump from "low to no pressure in the radiator" (because the plug had broken and fallen out) to "blown head gasket" (because the coolant system wouldn't pressurize) is like a doctor seeing that you have a fever and instantly determining that it's Ebola. Yes, a fever is a symptom of Ebola, but it's also a symptom of a lot of other possible things, and might just need some aspirin.

Sadly, Mechanics, Lawyers, and Contractors are all professions that you only need when you're completely up ˟˟˟˟˟ creek without a paddle. Therefore they are in the position to really take advantage of someone without any knowledge of their actual situation or the potentially simple fix it might need. So Trust in the integrity of these people or businesses is a very important thing to have. It takes years to earn and only seconds to lose.

Sorry for the rant, but couldn't help but think of a great book I read recently called Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance where the bike shop the guy takes his vintage bike to has all the mechanics running around chewing bubble gum with the radio up loud. The type of environment that doesn't lend it self to in-dept analysis and problem solving. Definitely a suggested read to understand why it's important to learn and understand the basics of things for yourself....and the power of that knowledge later on. (it does get a bit ethereal and spacey at times)

joelsmithdesigns

Here's the wiring schematic or diagram I threw together on how I'm planning on wiring the Dual Optima batteries and National Luna intelligent solenoid and monitor / controller up.

most components labeled and diagrammed. Let me know if I missed anything.

joelsmithdesigns

Well, I got a decent amount of stuff done this weekend.


Jaguar xj6 alternator on left OEM Toyota (denso) on the right



Same factory plug in the back, and larger stud and different orientation for the main





Removed a little material for it to fit in between the stock bracket





Alternator:

Had to grind a little bit of aluminum off both sides of the lower bracket to make sure it fit into the factory mount. The jaguar alternator is also so much larger than the factory toyota one that I had to drain the radiator and unhook the lower radiator hose just to get the thing in there. Finally got it in and all bolted up and it worked like a champ.

Wiring:

upgraded the wire to the starter to 2 gauge
upgraded the wire to the alternator to 2 gauge
grounds upgraded to 2 gauge
extended the 7 wires in the MAF/AFM wiring harness by 6+ feet so i could swap the intake over to the other side. I ended up unhooking and unwrapping the 5/8" factory loom that runs under the radiator support and routed the wires (along with those already there through a new (bigger) 3/4" - 1" loom in the same position.

Intake:

bought a cheap 90 degree chromed plastic Spectre 3" intake elbow and a couple of silicone couplers and just turned the intake down into the factory battery area.


I got everything hooked up (for a single battery setup) and started her up. Got the timing set and she was running great (have yet to take her out for a drive).

Looking at the space I have over on the right hand side (where the factory air box was originally), it's going to be extremely tight to fit two 34/78 Optimas in there......not impossible, but definitely tight. The H4 headlight plug is eating up some of my space, and I'll have to bend the power steering cooler downward and extend at least one of the hoses to gain clearance, along with relocating the coolant overflow. Even then the battery tray will have to be at about a 10 degree slant, otherwise I'll have to cut into the factory fender to get enough space (eating into tire clearance). So, that being said....I've got to fab up a slanted dual battery tray and it would be a good idea to have the car running and be able to drive it down to the shop to do the mockup / fab. Currently, I just used a ratcheting strap to hold the single battery down and will work on getting the dual tray fabricated so I can install the rest of the system.

I also noticed that the original cable coming from the alternator had an 80 amp fuse in the factory fuse box with multiple other power points being pulled from that location. I made sure to run power back to that junction, and am considering putting a 150 amp resettable fuse breaker box in between the alternator and first battery to avoid any spikes (as the original wiring had).

joelsmithdesigns

Going to be out of state for the long weekend.....sadly not getting anything done on the rig.

Make sure to thank a veteran this memorial day weekend.

joelsmithdesigns

Hoping to get that dual battery tray fabricated up this weekend and the National Luna installed.

I'll try to take more pictures and see how the rig is running with the new alternator and timing finally set

joelsmithdesigns

Ordered a ton of electrical components for a custom fuse box with multiple relays (for all the lights and similar to the image below- I'll do a wiring diagram coming up) as well as the stuff to build a snorkel and the winch components I was missing (solenoid cover, contactor, etc).....

Most of that gear won't be in by tomorrow, but hopefully it's going to be a productive weekend.