find the COR on the 3.4 wiring diagram and wire it up like that,

Yah I was reading about how the COR it's pretty much like the fuel circuit I'm pretty sure I have all the wires connected together correctly but on the 3.0 there's a fuel pump wire that goes to ECM and on the 3.4 that wire isn't there like I said, I'll still have to play with it but hopefully I can figure it out

It's all related to the circuit opening relay COR.
I don't remember changing to the T100 COR, I think I kept the 3.0 and just worked through the circuits to get the right output from the ECM to it. It's been a couple of years since I did it.

Yah, see thats kind of why i want it right. ill have to mess with it some more i just dont know what i am missing.

Mine is hooked up the same as stock, it only runs the fuel pump either when cranking or the engine is running. They did that for safety.

Now I can run it like this, but it just takes a few cranks for it to start up and run and I know it's not right and I would like it to be right that's why I asked for your help because we pretty much have the same plugs, the IH1 IH2 IE1 IE2. But I have done the hard part of looking at the diagrams and identifying everything, I just would like to know if when you put the key on the on position Does your fuel pump run constantly or does it only turn on when it's cranked? Other than that I can't think of what else to do I just don't wanna spend the money on a wiring harness, I just wanted to know what you did if you did anything special but again, thank you for responding and thank you for the words of encouragement.

Well first thing I want to do is thank you for responding. Surprisingly, I have the wiring diagrams for the T100 and the 1995 4runner I found them on the Internet when I was first attempting the wiring harness. I've just been trying to look up new info, but the good thing is I've got pretty much have all the wires identified and I've got it to where I drove it around the block with no problems. I got the AC to work and I got it to start by putting in a second fuse box and running a wire from the battery that is constant and a wire that is only powered when the key is on the on position. The only issue I am having really is I kind of bypassed the fuel circuit by putting the park neutral switch on the wire that has Power when the key is on the ON position the only reason why I did this was because I was kind of plugging in playing with the wires and that got it to run.

Hello akwheeler, I saw your 3.4 swap post and was wondering if I could get some wiring help. This is my first engine swap and I've looked all over the place for someone who swapped a 1995 4runner with a 1996 T100 and I found your post. If you could help me out or give me some tips I would greatly appreciated it.

Hi, FirstYoda, I'm sorry I didn't see your message for a while, but I just looked at your alignment printout.
your numbers look pretty good except for camber, I am not sure why the shop didn't adjust it to be within specs, it's at -.7 when it should be about that much positive.
That MAY be part of your wandering issue, but I doubt it.
What do your tires look like? New? worn? Inside edge wear? Outside edge? Center of tread? Both outside edges?
Your steering box could be the issue, but only if it's adjusted too tight or very loose.
It is very hard to diagnose wandering without using my assometer, but most of the time it is either road conditions (not sure if you're familiar with "stud ruts" where studded tires wear trenches in the road surface) or loose parts or tires.
I have seen wandering from steering parts that were too tight and binding in one spot, like a bent steering damper.

Hi,

I saw that you were an alignment guy and I am having trouble with some wandering after I had both CV axels and both tie-rods replaced on both sides. It wandered a little bit before but is significantly worse now. Might be more noticable at lower speeds. The shop told me it may be my gearbox but that doesnt sound right. I attached the alignment report. I was thinking of asking them to double-check the final numbers on the alignment to see if something moved. I think I also heard that slight negative toe-in may help. Anything you could suggest?
Thanks,

Charlie

1990 4Runner 5sp manual, 3.4 swap, 31" KOs, no lift

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