85 4Runner Stalled and now it won't start
#1
Good Morning,
My 4runner was running great, I stopped for a red light and it stalled and would not restart. This happened a few months back I changed the distributor, wires, and plugs. It seemed to do the trick now this happened.
Not sure where the problem is. If anyone has any advice or thoughts what the problem might be I'd very grateful for the help.
Thanks
My 4runner was running great, I stopped for a red light and it stalled and would not restart. This happened a few months back I changed the distributor, wires, and plugs. It seemed to do the trick now this happened.
Not sure where the problem is. If anyone has any advice or thoughts what the problem might be I'd very grateful for the help.
Thanks
#2
Do you have fuel, spark, air, and timing?
Those are the 4 basic things you need for an internal combustion engine to run. Trick is to figure out which one(s) are missing. Like, do you have fuel at the return hose from the pressure regulator when you crank the engine over? Alternatively, can you hear the fuel pump run with the MAF vane open, and the key in the ON position? Alternative way to check is do you have fuel pressure when you connect a pressure gauge to the cold start injector, and crank the engine over?
Do you have spark? Hook the inductive pickup of your timing light to a spark plug wire. If it flashes, spark is good. If not, trace back to the origin of the spark. Ohm the plug wires, check the plugs, check or replace the distributor cap, and so forth. I've gotten new distributor caps with a hairline crack in them, making them cease to properly operate after being in a very short time. Does the distributor have moisture in it? Could be a bad o-ring.
And so on.
Do you have air? Do you have any air leaks in that big tube from the MAF to the TPS? Especially check the corner pieces. It's easy for a crack that's hard to see to develop in those pieces. Check the MAF and TPS for proper operation per the FSM. Check ALL the vacuum lines for leaks, looseness, and routing.
Do you have compression in ALL the cylinders? A lot of auto parts sores have compression testers they'll loan out.
That's all 4 things it could possibly be. Now it's up to YOU to find the missing portion of the whole mix
Pat☺
Those are the 4 basic things you need for an internal combustion engine to run. Trick is to figure out which one(s) are missing. Like, do you have fuel at the return hose from the pressure regulator when you crank the engine over? Alternatively, can you hear the fuel pump run with the MAF vane open, and the key in the ON position? Alternative way to check is do you have fuel pressure when you connect a pressure gauge to the cold start injector, and crank the engine over?
Do you have spark? Hook the inductive pickup of your timing light to a spark plug wire. If it flashes, spark is good. If not, trace back to the origin of the spark. Ohm the plug wires, check the plugs, check or replace the distributor cap, and so forth. I've gotten new distributor caps with a hairline crack in them, making them cease to properly operate after being in a very short time. Does the distributor have moisture in it? Could be a bad o-ring.
And so on.
Do you have air? Do you have any air leaks in that big tube from the MAF to the TPS? Especially check the corner pieces. It's easy for a crack that's hard to see to develop in those pieces. Check the MAF and TPS for proper operation per the FSM. Check ALL the vacuum lines for leaks, looseness, and routing.
Do you have compression in ALL the cylinders? A lot of auto parts sores have compression testers they'll loan out.
That's all 4 things it could possibly be. Now it's up to YOU to find the missing portion of the whole mix

Pat☺






