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I have 97 Toyota runner. 3.4 4x4. Had brake issues when I bought it. So I decided to change the braking components. New pads new rotors and calipers cause they were stuck and would not go in. Now that it is all installed and power blead. The front brakes are dragging constantly while I try to drive it. Any ideas or any had this issue???
Some replacement pads come with 2 anti squeal pads, depending on what pads you used some have the anti squeal pads built in and additional anti squeal pads would be to tight with new pads and rotors, your sure you have the correct rotors and they are the correct thickness. Also the older 4R's didn't have the "M" shaped wire that helps separate the pads to stop them from dragging, mine all have them now. I stole this image from the web, they are almost removed in this pic.
See below the picture, I attached a link to FSM "disc and pad thickness inspection".. I wouldn't drive far with dragging brakes or you will warp the new rotors very quickly!
Last edited by Malcolm99; Apr 24, 2020 at 07:34 AM.
Some replacement pads come with 2 anti squeal pads, depending on what pads you used some have the anti squeal pads built in and additional anti squeal pads would be to tight with new pads and rotors, your sure you have the correct rotors and they are the correct thickness. Also the older 4R's didn't have the "M" shaped wire that helps separate the pads to stop them from dragging, mine all have them now.
those M shaped springs do not have enough power to separate the pads, they are anti rattle springs.
If your brakes are dragging you first need to verify if it is the front or rear by jacking up the vehicle and trying to spin the wheels by hand.
If the rear brakes drag make sure the parking brake cable and all linkages are releasing properly, make sure the adjusters are not too tight.
If your front brakes are dragging crack open a bleeder and see if they spin freely, that will help to tell if it is a master cylinder issue or push rod adjustment issue.
If only one brake is dragging crack the bleeder to that wheel and see if it loosens up, that will tell you if there is trapped pressure there either due to a collapsed brake hose or blocked line.
If the brake still drag (spinning by hand would be impossible or VERY hard) when you are absolutely sure there is no pressure being applied to them (bleeder open) then you are looking for some of the things already mentioned, caliper not releasing etc.
If your brake pads were too thick (extra anti squeal shim etc) or the rotor is too thick you likely would not have been able to install the calipers/pads.
The only thing that retracts the pistons in your front brake calipers when you let off on the brake pedal is the square cut seal around the piston and it will only retract the piston a tiny bit so that the pads will still be in contact with the rotor and keep you from having a huge amount of pedal travel when the pads wear. but if the master cylinder is still applying pressure or the brake hoses are trapping pressure due to internal failure or blockage the brakes will still be applied and dragging.