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xxxtreme22r's 1987 Pickup Build-Up Thread
I am reserving a spot now for future mods. Sorry not too many photos yet, since I am still out of a camera.
I have called this Project blueballs because the truck is Blue and I am never gonna be happy with the amount of mods to it. Oh yeah and it's got BALLS!!! Here's the list so far. Freshly rebuilt 22r motor w/Full ENGNBLDR Master Kit ENGNBLDR street head and Head Bolts ENGNBLDR 268 cam ENGNBLDR 20 over Pistons ENGNBLDR Steel Rail Timing Kit ENGNBLDR Oil Pump JAPANENGINES New Crank and Connecting Rods STD Size JAPANENGINES New Timing Cover DOWNEY 4-1 Header LC Engineering Header Bolts PERFECTION Clutch and Flywheel from ADVANCE AUTO PARTS Stainless Steel Engine Bolt kit from MMS DURALAST Water Pump from AUTOZONE AIRTEX Fuel Pump from AUTOZONE Rebuilt Toyota Aisin Carburetor XXXTREME22r Built Wooden Flatbed '00 CHEVY 2500/3500 Tail Lights HAYDEN Fan Clutch from PEPBOYS Custom 2.25" Exhaust made by COLE MUFFLER THRUSH Turbo Muffler from CEEKAY AUTO "SR5" Gauge Cluster swap from a 1986 4Runner PROCOMP E3000 Shocks PROCOMP E2000 Steering Stabilizer Front Air Dam Removed soon to come: turn signal/marker light mod, 31X10.50 tires, MARLIN CRAWLER Shifter Bushings, and hopefully a rattle can paint job (weather permitting) wishlist: Baja Front Bumper & Skid Plate, 3" Flared Front Fenders, tubed Rear Bumper. ....more to come Couple photos of the truck taken right after I spun a rod bearing. I dropped the oil pan and front diff right in this field in the time it took the tow truck to show up: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d8960c4ea5.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...1fad4e8608.jpg Some Engine Photos courtesy of 92 TOY: http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/v...xtreme22r1.jpg http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/v...xtreme22r2.jpg http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/v...xtreme22r3.jpg http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/v...xtreme22r4.jpg |
He's got new shoes now, well at least new to the truck. I picked up a set of 31 X 10.50 Definity Dakota M/T tires used. What a difference tires make on this thing look wise. I also changed out the wheels as well, to the set that i had gotten with the truck. I believe them to be the stock ones. The ones I had on the PO said they came off a newer yota. THe ones I have on now have more of a triangle shape to the holes. I notice a little torque loss below 1500 and they are kinda noisy. First set of mud tires I've had on any of my trucks. I know all M/T's are gonna be loud, just gonna take some getting used to.
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Well the next step is the Weber 32/36 Carb from WeberCarbsDirect. I must say very fast shipping ans sent the same day ordered. Although they are less than a 3 hour drive from me. As you can see in the following photos, this is the real thing, not an EMPI or Solex Copy. Please Correct me if I am wrong here. Not sure when I will get the time to put it in though. 12 hour days on 2nd shift kinda sucks in a way.
Shipping Box http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_01.jpg Packaging http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_02.jpg Warning http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_03.jpg Instructions (Will Try to make a pdf on this as well) They gave me two sets??? http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_04.jpg Packed Box http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_05.jpg Un-packed Box http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_06.jpg Weber 32/36 http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_07.jpg Air Filter Part Number Even though their website says the WK746 comes with their F1000 1.75" Tall they sent the F2000 2.5" Tall Filter. BONUS I Guess. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_08.jpg Air Filter Not liking the flimsy chrome housing/clips though. Filter itself looks good though. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_09.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_10.jpg Air Filter/Weber Mock Up http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_11.jpg Got to watch out for clearance issues with the Breather Tube and Carb Body http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_13.jpg Throttle Plates http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_14.jpg Toyota/Factory Throttle Linkage Side By Side Will Need to take old one off and put new one on http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_20.jpg Will not have any more choke problems No more rivets here http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_17.jpg [IMG]http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/xxxtreme22r/Weber%2032%2036/Weber_32_36_16.jpg[/IMGl] Tamper Sticker (not sure what this is covering though http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_18.jpg Made in Spain Stamp http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_19.jpg EGR PCV Plate http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_22.jpg 4WD only Throttle Bracket spacers http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_23.jpg Idle Cut-off Solonoid with without the o-ring installed. Not sure if I am going to need this, but for $16 insurance I decided to get it. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_25.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_26.jpg Supplied 5/8" fuel hose. Don't think this is gonna be enough though. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_24.jpg Air Filter Washers/Bolts. There is 7, 4 I am assuming for the air filter, but not sure what the other 3 are for. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_27.jpg 2 Piece (ugg) Intake Adapter. If this gives me problems, I am gonna get the 1 piece from summit. Someone else on here might get a good deal later on. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...r_32_36_28.jpg That's it for now. 2am and time for bed. |
just an update, sorry no photos someone in my family lost our camera, since I started this I have added power sterring system from a 95 22re pickup, a dual diaphragm booster from a 91 3.0 pickup and a new t-100 1" master cyl.
Went pretty well, everything was put on when truck sitting on the ground. Was a little tricky to get the pitman back on because I have a procomp steering stabilizer on and it was interfering with me dropping the center link enough to clear the pitman rod end. Also had somewhat of a difficult time taking the crank balancer off to install the power steering belt pully. But I did this with the skid plate still on. Night an day difference in both. No longer have to muscle the steering nor the brakes. Very happy with the outcome. The booster and entire power steering setup cost me a little less than $50 from a junk yard and the master cyl new from autozone was $65 and putting on a Duralast greasable pitman arm when I get a good enough tool to pull the 20 year old pitman from the power steering box. Gonna have to tweak the brake booster rod a little as I think it's not far enough out and the brakes don't grab until the pedal is about 1/4 of the way down, but when they do, wow !!! That's it for now. |
hiya.........
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call up lc engineering you may want to buy there adapter to run a round filter on the webber. i did this cause you cant find a square one to replace that one with anywhere and they collect dirt like no tomorrow.
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Originally Posted by 88redyota
(Post 51446682)
call up lc engineering you may want to buy there adapter to run a round filter on the webber. i did this cause you cant find a square one to replace that one with anywhere and they collect dirt like no tomorrow.
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/e2000.htm http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...s/E2000-2T.jpg You can also get K&N weber replacements as well as the precharger/prefilter covers. |
Good looking truck man! I like the look of those Difinity tires.
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I thought I put this up here a while ago, but I gues not. A little late but here we go:
Idea and original wrtie up is available here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51357255 ok here we go, bear with me cus I aint good on writeups, first his in an 87 truck, yours might be different. Step 1: Locate your turn corner lights. Don't know where they are? Why are you even here in this thread? http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0001.jpg Step 2: Locate removal screws (there are 3 of them 1 on top, two on bottom). http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0002.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0003.jpg Step 3: Remove corner lamps. Step 4: Drill grind or whatever to make hole large enough to fit sockets. I used a 1 1/8 hole saw for the Dorman Brand #85860 1157 sockets available at A&A Auto Parts. Cost me $2.79 a piece. Don't know how many to buy? See step #1. Original http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0004.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0006.jpg Drilled http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0007.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0008.jpg Step 3: Remove OEM harness connector and then attach an OEM wire to the ground location using a quick disconnect. Then figure out which wire on the Dorman socket goes to the brightest filament by attaching each wire to the other available OEM wire. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0009.jpg Step 4: Tap into the OEM turn signal wire and attach it to the last available wire on the Dorman socket. The OEM wire you want to use is the wire in the center of the connector not the one on the edge (Sorry Forgot to take a photo) Step 5: As mentioned earlier in the thread, the larger bulb will not fit all the way in because it hits the Light cover. As mentioned earlier I used a pill bottle cap and drilled the same 1 1/8" hole in that. Place the bottle cap around the socket and using any adhesive/sealant ( I used Permatex clear RTV Silicone) seal the socket to the cap and after placing the socket into the corner light assembly. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0015.jpg Step 6 re-attach your new turn signal back onto the truck. Don't know how to? See step #1 again. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0020.jpg Here are comparisons. NEW http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0021.jpg OLD http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0022.jpg Passenger light is the new, Driver light is the old http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0019.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/GEDC0018.jpg |
Hey man how do u like that clutch? Is it the HD version. If so that's what I plan to out for my little 22re rebuild.
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not sure on the "hd version". I got that and the matching flywheel for both it was like $140 for the complete set from advanced auto.
It's the perfection series made by zoom, not the performance set actually under the zoom name, which are actually hello expensive. clutch http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1251185248___ flywheel http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1251453555___ So far been doing really good. It's holding it's own with the 4:10 factory gears and 31" tires. Pedal pressure it not much different than the OEM clutch, although I did have to adjust the clutch pedal rod a little because it wasn't disengaging all the way at first. but that was probably due to previous adjustments for clutch wear.. In using this off-road and crawling, it does take a little finesse on the pedal to get it to slip enough to not stall. But I think that is just because of the tire/gear combo. Now if I do a hard launch it does have enough grab to chip the tire(s) pretty good. I got a video up on here of me doing one of those lanches and running all the way into 3rd gear. no slipping at all with the 31's. |
Finally more to add.
Looks as though my new real buildup mod on this is gonna be a rear bumper. After a recent Rausch Creek off-road trip, I ripped the rest of my bumper off. Plans are to use a piece of 2" X 4" x 1/4" Steel Rectangle tubing as the main part of the bumper and attach straight from the frame using 1/4" plate and 1/4" angle brackets. I am gonna attempt this not knowing how to weld and will try to make it all bolt on. Maybe eventually I will have someone tack/finish weld it later on. Parallel Bumper build thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...er-fab-215151/ This is the guidelines I have to use as far as PA State inspection goes: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...ld/pa_code.jpg This is what the carnage on the FEY step bumper looked like and how I fixed it on a trail repair. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/PICT0038.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/PICT0040.jpg |
huh what?
ok...you 1st |
lol still editing that above post. submitted it before I was done with it. lol.
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Edited that post 2 posts above.
Since the GVWR listed on my door panel is 5081, I am limited to 27" in the front to the bottom of the factory bumper and 29" to the bottom of the factory bumper or in my case the bottom of the frame as measured here (as of right now with flat springs I am at about 24.5") : http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0088.jpg I am going to build it so I can meet the 29" to the bottom of the frame with the 2" rear OME leaf springs and 33" tires. As of right now I have 4.5" of play. With the 2" lift from the springs and another 1" of lift from the tires size change from my current 31's I have, that gives me 1.5" left that I am probably loosing due to spring sag. I hope the tired factory leaf springs are not sagged anymore than that. |
i'd mock it up with wood 1st and see what you like or don't like
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so, is that all you broke?
pretty amazing if that's the case. you beat that thing pretty badly. |
Originally Posted by 92 TOY
(Post 51486521)
so, is that all you broke?
pretty amazing if that's the case. you beat that thing pretty badly. If you think Saturday was bad, you shoulda been with me and Joe on sunday. Ask him, he'll tell ya. |
i'll give you 2 guys credit for doing all that on sunday.....and the rest of the group on saturday for staying out so long
you know how i am, i was totally certain i was gonna be coming home on a tow truck if i stayed out much longer....took quite a few hard shots in the 4 hours i was out and wasn't looking for any more. in regards to the bumper..... did you get a price on steel similar to what i posted from malteserunner? i'm thinking that is the way to go for a bumper and embellish it from there. probably could do it without welding too. i don't have a welder and not sure who around here even has one.....i hate to borrow anything too. what is that piece of metal called? if i were to call around for prices we would need it how wide?.....seems like 4 feet wide would do it. |
not sure, I am gonna call bloomsburg Metal today to get a price on a 4-5 foot section. the rest will be easy, looks like 2 pieces of 1 ft X 3" X 1/4" plate and 2 pieces 3" x 3" x 3" x 1/4" angled. some grade 8 nuts, bolts, washers from TSC. Later on I will look at solutions to some shackle brackets for recovery points like Josh had.
Now if Bloomsburgh Metal can bend up some 1/4" x 3" plate I wont need those angled pieces and will eliminate some bolts. |
yeh,,bloom metal is where i was thinking too.....don't know of anyone else
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How different is the on road driving upping to 31s? You didn't change gearing or anything right?
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for me....really no change in power......if anything, a more stable ride...a more comfortable ride.....no horsepower to begin with, so no appreciable loss
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Originally Posted by Chedo2.0
(Post 51486553)
How different is the on road driving upping to 31s? You didn't change gearing or anything right?
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"for me....really no change in power......if anything, a more stable ride...a more comfortable ride.....no horsepower to begin with, so no appreciable loss"
"almost no loss as far as I can tell. Maybe a little noticeable on hils, but it's not really a loss, just a change in power band because of the different rpm at highway speeds. Still has plenty of power above 3,000 RPM. " Thanks guys, I'm considering finding a set of used 31's but mostly my truck is a dd and I was concerned that I would loose a noticable amount |
xxxtreme......see if this link works and if this is what we are talking about
http://us-dc1-order.store.yahoo.net/...onId=ysco.cart |
Originally Posted by 92 TOY
(Post 51487284)
xxxtreme......see if this link works and if this is what we are talking about
http://us-dc1-order.store.yahoo.net/...onId=ysco.cart but this is what I am looking at on the site: Steel Rectangular Tube 4 x 2 x 1/4 - - - - - - - - - - -5 foot X1 $60.45 Steel Hot Rolled Flat Bar 1/4 x 3 - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 foot X2 $10.56 Steel Equal Leg Angle 3 x 3 x 1/4 3 inches X2 precision cut - $14.88 Shipping - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $22.60 Total - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $108.49 Shipping isn't bad considering its about 52 lbs of steel. I still have to figure out how I am gonna cap the ends of the tube though. I have an idea, bt I don't know if there is any suppliers around here for it. |
dang...sorry about the link....but just for the steel bumper piece it was like $41 delivered
nice sig quote too by the way |
I used a 5'8" piece of 4X2X3/16 I got from the local distributor for $47.00.
For Mounts - I cut off a 14" piece and "ripped" it into 2 - 2x2 c-channels, cut a 4" piece off off the side of each channel for my end caps. Drilled holes in the c-channels to mount to factory bumper mount holes. Eyelets - Bought these from Mountain Offroad Enterprises (M.O.R.E) for around $10.00-$15.00 each. Drilled holes in remaining 4'6" piece (bumper) in line with frame mounts to insert eylets and give the weld something to hold onto. Had my dad weld on the end caps, channel mounts, and eyelets. The rest of the cost was shackles and paint. Can't remember where I got the shackles, but I think the eyelets and shackles are 3/4". Overkill, but stout. |
thanks for the info slinkhound. sounds like you mounted to the frame like i thought you did and how I am gonna do it. Straight off the frame no "drop bracket"
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ok I ordered my steel, all gonna be precut and ready for pickup on Tuesday for me.
I got 1 piece of 4" x 2" x 1/4" x 5 foot in length rectangle tubing $62.90 2 pieces of 3" x 1/4" plate x 1foot in length $12.59 2 pieces of 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle 3 inches in length $10 |
ok got some work done on one side. Pardon the shotty job, but considering what I have to work with, the PO (S) replaced the rear bumper with what looks to be 89-95 bumper brackets and because he could only get one bolt to line up they welded not only the back side but the bottom as well making an L-shaped weld. BIG PITA to get off with just a drill w/ grinding and/or cut-off wheel I am using.
this is how it looked before and after I got the one side off. Still have to do the other side, but since I ran out of cut-off wheels well, the other side is gonna have to wait. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0092.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0093.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0102.jpg |
Ok material Line up:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0107.jpg 1 piece of 4" x 2" x 1/4" rectangle A500 steel tubing 5 foot in length 44.05 lbs $66.67 2 pieces 3" x 1/4" flat bar stock steel 1 foot in length 5.1 lbs $8.06 2 pieces of 3" x 3" x 1/4" A-36 Steel Angle 3 inches in length 2.45 lbs $8.48 total cost of steel $83.21 including 6% sales tax 3.05 lbs worth of grade 8 hardware $13.86 including 12 pieces 1/2" x 1.5" Hex Bolts 24 pieces 1/2" Flat Washers 12 pieces 1/2" Lock Washers 24 pieces 1/2" Hex Nuts 3 Cans cheapo Paint from Kmart (1 primer, 2 Flat Black) $4.24 Total Cost Of materials $101.31 I don't think I will have any structural problems with the tubing itself :) http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0109.jpg I still have to eventually get some 3/4" Shackles and brackets. |
More updates, finally got off my but and got something accomplished today since it's below 95 degrees. I hate woring in extreme heat.
Two holes drilled, 10 more to go. Had the two pieces c-clamped to my flatbed/workbench in order to make sure holes lined up perfectly. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0111.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0112.jpg The line up of step up in holes I drilled: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0115.jpg The broken one is what happens when you push too hard on a set of $10 Walmart special Drill bits http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0116.jpg The drill I am using: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0117.jpg Mock-up bracket: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0121.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0118.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0123.jpg Two more holes will be drilled into the bracket that will line up and use the factory mounting holes in the frame [IMG]http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0122.jpg My 4 year old daughter had to give her approval before I moved onto the other side: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0124.jpg |
One bracket almost done. Mocked up to ensure fit. I will wait to drill the holes for the 4 X 2 tube when I get the other mount done.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0126.jpg http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0127.jpg |
casualty report:
2 3/32" drill bits, a tip off a 7/64", a 5/16" and a 1/2" drill bit, all toast. Helpful hint when drilling through 1/4" plate, do not use cheap drill bits. :) Pic or it didn't happen right? http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0128.jpg Here is what I got to replace the 1/2". This better hold for the remaining few holes. At least it better for a $19 bit !!!! http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0129.jpg Anyway, other side bracket is done. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0131.jpg And what it looks like without the tube on. Al tighten down ready to "hang" the tube to mark bracket locations prior to drilling the 4 remaining 1/2" holes. http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/PICT0132.jpg |
that bottom picture looks like your toolbox puked
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
(Post 51493722)
that bottom picture looks like your toolbox puked
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study that pic and make sure you get that one that is wedged under the tire
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