picked up some steel today to make my own motor guard. i figured i could make one for less than $75 plus shipping.
oh, and the truck runs great
oh, and the truck runs great

currently exchanging email with sean from low range off road. he says they might be able to sell me just the plug instead of the entire harness. that would be so sweet. so now i just sit back and play the waiting game...
Registered User
Quote:
oh, and the truck runs great
$75? I got mine for $40 from LowRange.Originally Posted by irab88
picked up some steel today to make my own motor guard. i figured i could make one for less than $75 plus shipping. oh, and the truck runs great
link? 'cause i'm not seeing it.
@rb- thanks for that pic, i think i'll have to make a label of my own now
@rb- thanks for that pic, i think i'll have to make a label of my own now
Registered User
Quote:
It's not on the website you have to call them.Originally Posted by irab88
link? 'cause i'm not seeing it.
nah, thanks though. half those don't even apply to me, haha.
i was thinking something more like this:

i was thinking something more like this:

some pics:
finally got the right harness


and finished up the entire harness. it's done and tested now, i'll install it this weekend. and the locker works great.

finally got the right harness


and finished up the entire harness. it's done and tested now, i'll install it this weekend. and the locker works great.

all done! mark, i'll get you a summary up soon, haha. also, pics later. y'all are gonna love the box i'm using 

pics, then summary:
done underneath...

more re-purposing!


also, lots of stuff going down tomorrow, both with the truck and my job
done underneath...

more re-purposing!


also, lots of stuff going down tomorrow, both with the truck and my job

all right, time for a summary of the e-locker install, including things that i learned (sometimes the hard way)
>> part 1, the locker install
-the axle shaftsslide out easily, and they're light
-the differential is easily removed at this point, but it's heavy
-the axle housing needs to be removed completely, otherwise it's a pita to modify
-the axle housing is light, able to be lifted by one person
-for the housing modifications, use the gasket!!!! you'll never remove enough material
-once the material is removed, test fit the e-locker, both locking/unlocking
-get a long drill bit to feed into the to-drill stud holes of the locker
-with the e-locker in place, drill only a bit of the holes. enough to keep the drill centered
-take the locker off, then drill/tap the holes
-re-install everything
-the v6 e-locker pinion flange has the same bolt pattern as my 4cyl pickup
>> part 2, the electrical
-plenty of circuits out there. find one and stick with it
-you'll need to run 6 wires to the rear
-the ground in the 5-pin connector and one of the pins of the lock switch can be tied together
-the locker motor draws less than 5 amps (i tested multiple times). fuse to ~10 amps
-test the circuit when you first make it and test it outside before you install it
-to test, you only need to choc the front wheels, put the truck in neutral, and raise one of the rear wheels
>> part 3, operation
-the mechanism is spring-loaded, so it may not lock immediately. as soon as there’s alignment, it’ll “click” locked
-normal turns will drag the tires a bit. driving straight is safe, but quick turning feels delayed
-if you’re not going to use it for a while, put it into “unlock” and pull the fuse
that’s all for now, if you (*cough* mark *cough*) have any questions, just lemme know. i’ll let y’all know how well it works after next weekend
>> part 1, the locker install
-the axle shaftsslide out easily, and they're light
-the differential is easily removed at this point, but it's heavy
-the axle housing needs to be removed completely, otherwise it's a pita to modify
-the axle housing is light, able to be lifted by one person
-for the housing modifications, use the gasket!!!! you'll never remove enough material
-once the material is removed, test fit the e-locker, both locking/unlocking
-get a long drill bit to feed into the to-drill stud holes of the locker
-with the e-locker in place, drill only a bit of the holes. enough to keep the drill centered
-take the locker off, then drill/tap the holes
-re-install everything
-the v6 e-locker pinion flange has the same bolt pattern as my 4cyl pickup
>> part 2, the electrical
-plenty of circuits out there. find one and stick with it
-you'll need to run 6 wires to the rear
-the ground in the 5-pin connector and one of the pins of the lock switch can be tied together
-the locker motor draws less than 5 amps (i tested multiple times). fuse to ~10 amps
-test the circuit when you first make it and test it outside before you install it
-to test, you only need to choc the front wheels, put the truck in neutral, and raise one of the rear wheels
>> part 3, operation
-the mechanism is spring-loaded, so it may not lock immediately. as soon as there’s alignment, it’ll “click” locked
-normal turns will drag the tires a bit. driving straight is safe, but quick turning feels delayed
-if you’re not going to use it for a while, put it into “unlock” and pull the fuse
that’s all for now, if you (*cough* mark *cough*) have any questions, just lemme know. i’ll let y’all know how well it works after next weekend
Registered User
Yea it was from an old Def Leppard tape, Rock, Rock till you drop....
in that case(no pun), i would have left the original cover art intact....but that's just me.
i would have, too, if it were actually something other than a blank tape. my dad doesn't have too many cassettes (mostly vinyl and cd), so the chances of finding some hard rock (pun intended) e-locker switch box were slim.
in other news, i am no longer an intern. job with full benefits, baby! woo! got all checked in this morning

in other news, i am no longer an intern. job with full benefits, baby! woo! got all checked in this morning


