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Soooo for the record lol, The trans is fixed!!!!!! Was a combination of 2 things but the major one being that I had a false understanding of how critical and important the line pressure cable is from the throttle body to the trans. After taking Tim for a ride and him looking at it he noticed my line pressure cable for thetrans was way out from where he thought it should be. I told him I had read that it was only for the firmness of how it shifts and for downshifts. He said No it pretty much affects the whole tranny. So we adjusted in the parking lot and noticed a slight improvement which gave me a general direction.
Once home I spent about 30mins looking for my Haynes manual but finally found it. I'll post a pic of the page in another post from my phone. So fixed that and while digging around under the hood also discovered a vac leak that was definitely hurting me from building boost properly therefore affecting the engine making me think the tranny is acting even worse.
Fixed the adjustment and the vac leak, BIG difference, Shifts are much nicer and firm, Power comes in a lot better and TQ lockup works. Cruise control also manages the speed much much better. Does it pull like a Manual JZ,...….NO but it is still nice to drive and well fast enough then any stock Runner.
With that the final issue that I don't think can really be fixed is the actual shift points out of the ecu. The shift points that are designed the 3.0 don't really lineup with the power and torque curve of the trans. Sure you can just hold it to the floor but even then it still thinks it has a stock 3.0 in front of it not a 1 JZ that is gonna rev 2-3k RPMS more. The following pulled from wikipedia
"The 3VZ-E is a 3.0 L (2,958 cc) SOHC V6 Toyota Bore remains at 87.5 mm (3.44 in) but stroke is pushed to 82 mm (3.23 in). At introduction output was specified as 145 hp (108 kW; 147 PS) then later bumped to 150 hp (112 kW; 152 PS) at 4800 rpm with 244 N⋅m (180 lb⋅ft) of torque at 3400 rpm. Despite sharing an engine family designation the 3VZ-E and 3VZ-FE have few parts in common."
"The first generation 1JZ-GTE employs twin CT12A turbochargers arranged in parallel and blowing through a side-mount or front mount air-to-air intercooler. With an 8.5:1 static compression ratio, the factory quoted power and torque outputs are 280 PS (206 kW; 276 hp) at 6200 rpm and 363 N⋅m (268 lbf⋅ft) at 4800 rpm. The bore and stroke are the same as for the 1JZ-GE: bore × stroke is 86 mm × 71.5 mm (3.39 in × 2.81 in). Yamaha may have had a hand in the development or production of these engines (possibly the head design), hence the Yamaha badging on certain parts of the engine, such as the cam gear cover. In 1991, the 1JZ-GTE was slotted into the all-new Soarer GT."
This make perfect sence as to why it drives and shifts the way it does. So if hit the gas moderately but not flore it shifts right around 3k ish rpm range which is a little below the 3.0 max torque curve. If it actually hit the gas and hold it their it'll run up to about 4k-4200 Rpm and shift out. The only way to really let the 1j stretch is to put it L or 2 and hold it down and manually shift it. So I started this idea wanting to do something different and from what I researched online had not really been done before. The only other thing that could be done is maybe a shift kit on the valve body as well as a full manual shift setup. But even then how much are you gonna really get out of it to where it's worth retaining the auto over a manual and still have the 1j/2j to it's potential.
Last edited by 8784 runner; 07-12-2019 at 03:51 PM.
Dude! Nicely done. Glad I was able to point you in the right direction for your line pressure adjustments. I find myself reading through all the 1JZ t4r swaps too often, dying to do another one, but 2JZ this time. Got my Mx72 1JZ swap running too. You'll love what I did to the MAF housing you gave me. Added an airflow straightener too. Adding a flexpipe, cat, resonator, and muffler to the exhaust today. Ill have to drive it down to you one day this week maybe.
.....Still waiting for this "Build thread" of the cressida wagon. Anything you do is better then a straight pipe like you had it lol. Can't wait to try the paddle shifts out as well!!!
.....Still waiting for this "Build thread" of the cressida wagon. Anything you do is better then a straight pipe like you had it lol. Can't wait to try the paddle shifts out as well!!!
I just uploaded all my photos this morning to make my build thread man. Its in the works. Also it runs perfectly now, you'll be amazed at how strong this 1j auto pulls. Smokes tires all the way through 2nd gear.
BTW..what damn forum should I make a build in? Its not really a "yotatech" type build. The cressida forums (jzxproject) is literal garbage in terms of the people and type of posts.
BTW..what damn forum should I make a build in? Its not really a "yotatech" type build. The cressida forums (jzxproject) is literal garbage in terms of the people and type of posts.
You can post in this engine swap section if you want, or the "Other Makes Cars/Trucks" sub-forum here on YotaTech: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f188/
For some reason, there is not an "Other Toyota" section here so the "Other Makes Cars/Trucks" is probably the closest.
Toyota Nation? I haven't spent much time there....
Other than that, I have no idea where else to post.
So I SOLD the 4runner. Which was good and bad. I sold everything needed to do the manual swap to the buyer as well. That same or next weekend he swapped the trans to the manual. Took it for a drive and surprisingly still had the issue with not building boost and not revving past 4k rpm.
long story short the entire time the issue was actually the FUEL FILTER smh. When I bought it off Amazon K&N (pf-1300) I believe it was. In the ad it just said a bunch of garbage and high flow low restriction. After hearing that filter was the issue I went to K&N website and looked up the specs for that filter. Every veichle listed for that filter was 1970-1980's V6 or V8 carburated motor. Very very annoying such a simple fixed that I would of never checked seeing how I just put it during the swap.
oh well atleast it is sold and the buyer is happy and got a deal on a now blazing fast one of a kind 4Runner. On to the next!
So I BOUGHT the 4runner back lol. Drove about 4hrs one way to tow it home. I gave him a little more then what I sold it for which is fine with me. He had done decent amount of work to it, new gas tank and factory bent brake lines along the frame including the manual swap. Had brand new 33's with rims when I got it which I have already taking off. The 33's were holding the motor back a noticeable amount from what I remember it being. So I picked up 2021 4runner wheels and tires off marketplace. Huge difference with ride and acceleration. Other then that nothing new with it. Reunited
Last edited by 8784 runner; 11-07-2021 at 08:34 AM.
So I BOUGHT the 4runner back lol. Drove about 4hrs one way to tow it home. I gave him a little more then what I sold it for which is fine with me. He had done decent amount of work to it including the manual swap. Had brand new 33's with rims when I got it which I have already taking off. The 33's were holding the motor back a noticeable amount from what I remember it being. So I picked up 2021 4runner wheels and tires off marketplace. Huge difference with ride and acceleration. Other then that nothing new with it. All the auto wiring is still in it, not sure if I'll cause myself the headache of trying to undo all of the wiring to clean it up a bit. Only thing I'm intrested in doing with it for now is rebuilding the turbos just cause of the age they have now at this point. Reunited
What would be different about doing this build with a 2000 SR5 4wd 5speed? I want to do a 2jzgte swap since 3.0 died on me.
What would be different about doing this build with a 2000 SR5 4wd 5speed? I want to do a 2jzgte swap since 3.0 died on me.
That is a 3rd gen, which came with the 3.4v6. 3.0 no longer available after 95-96 4runner.
wiring would be alot different since yours has an entirely different ecu/body harness. Also motor mounts would need to be custom made since no one to my knowledge makes JZ engine mounts for 3rd gen 4runner.
I have been tossing around the idea of selling mine again but idk yet. I'm happy I bought it back but it really just sits. Having 4 vehicles on the road is overkill.
4runner had a torn cv boot when I picked it up, looked fairly fresh. So did new cv axle along with seay bar links and front brake hoses. The knuckle dust seal was completely gone so luckily was able to get ahold of a new one for a abs truck. They are two different part#'s with abs and without. Only difference is a small kickout on the ring that goes over the abs sensor. A few of the bolts were seized slightly so I killed the heads getting them out then replaced with stainless upon going back together. Just as reference threads were M8 x1.25
also new lower ball joint while it was apart.
Gonna be selling this again soon, as fun and comfortable as it is to drive it really just sits which was partially why I sold it the first time. I have enough veichles on the road and really only need one 1jz 4runner and that would be my 1st gen. Anyone interested cam pm me.
Figured i would finally wire in reverse lights. Nothing complicated just posting wire color for me or anyone in future as reference. The Red wire/white stripe off the trans selctor is the reverse wire. Which became red wire/black stripe at the body harness plug. I made a whip from the reverse light switch on side of trans and ran it to inside the cab. I did not get a picture of finished product. I definitely did not leave it like this, it was just while i was making sure i had correct wires before soldering and heat shrink. One wire from switch was connected here and the other i spliced into main batt feed for the auto ecu which is useless now with the 5 speed. Now we have reverse lights
07-12-2019, 03:49 PM
