OK, I've done a lot of research about lockers and have pretty well determined that I want something switchable - meaning ARB or elocker.

The "reference" option would be the ARB package from Strap22 for $1557 + s/h. Installation will be either expensive, or considerable downtime on the truck as the r&p will have to be professionally done. I figure $500 at least if I take in the thirds. The upside is that I have heard very few/no complaints about the ARB lockers, and it provides some degree of on-board air.

The option I am more leaning to is buying a used elocker third. I have found one for $500 shipped. It will require new gears as it has 4.10's and I run 33's. This makes me lean to installing 4.88's, so, about $300 in gears and $500 to set up...I know a guy who is oing a SAS on a '93 truck, so I may be able to get his front diff to set up, and then give him mine after I install both. Add a TruTrac in the front for $400, and I've got $1700 into this setup. This option would allow all the parts acquisition and setup to be done "off line", then have an OH TTORA wrench-a-thon to swap out the thirds.

Are my numbers here out of whack?

Is there anything to watch out for that would make this elocker not fit in my truck? (Say 4 cylinder vs 6?)

Does installation of a rear elocker require a new driveshaft?

I mean, we're talking $300 the way I figure it. If I've missed anything on the elocker/TruTrac setup, it could get dead even pretty easy...

 

okay, first do you wish to keep the gears that are in your truck now?

If not, then yes.

If so, then do the locker install yourself. The pinnon is the hardest part IMO, and if you are keeping the same gears, then you can replace the locker and not mess with the pinon at all.

Just a tip, you don't need a press. Use a freezer and an oven, and you'll be fine.

 

think about it, a lot. everything that goes in your truck are quiet sensitive too..

 

AxleIke - you said "If not, then yes" - yes to what?

I have 4.56's and they are OK - I wouldn't say I NEED to regear, but if I have to do it anyways, I may as well go to 4.88.

 

I say go ARBs and never look back. I just picked up two ARBs end of last year for my trail rig, I also did a good amount of research and in the end ARBs were my choice of locker, no question. They will activate much quicker than an Elocker, you'll have an air source as you mention and you wont need any custom diff mods. It should run you about $200 to get each third loaded with an ARB if you drop off your thirds - if you get new gears, get US Gear brand if you dont mind paying a few extra dollars for the best gears.


As for gears, 4.88s are nice to have. I've got them in my 4runner (factory 4.88s) with 32x11.5 BFGs Muds, it works well. Even though its a small change in gearing, with the 3.0 I would imagine it would make a fairly noticeable difference considering how much of a dog that engine is.
Ask around here, I'd bet several people have done the switch...see if its really worth it.

 

sorry, i meant if you were planning to switch gears than yes, you're truck is going to have downtime and probably need a shop instal. Probably be quicker that way anyway, as they know what they are doing and can make sure your junk gets done right. I agree with westy, get the ARBs.

 

I would go ARB's front and back, unless you plan on loosing your IFS in the future. As long as the compresssor and wiring is there it's just a matter of adding the locker. I'd rather have an ARB in front than going from 456 to 488. If you aren't going ARB in the front might as well go elocker rear and save some money IMO. I got front and rear ARB's fully installed (drive in service) for $2200 about 2+ years ago. If your not in a hurry look for complete thirds used on pirate, 4.88 is a common gear for used stuff.

I don't use the ARB compressor for airing up very often. Better off with a cheap unit for tires keeping the ARB for the lockers and as a backup. I read a number of threads about people burning them up when using to air up.

 

I think ARB makes a great product but ive (i kid you not) of the half a dozzen guys ive wheeled with that have the ARB. ALL every-single-one-of-them have had problems with them that have left them mostly stuck and relying on the rest of the group to drag them out as they found themselves on a locker required trail with an open diff.

Personally id never do it. Way to much expense for a product with such a horid track record of air line problems (ya dont start with bla bla bla air line this and that and worked around and designed out, and mine wont be that way...) stick with options that dont leave you up a creek.

If you HAVE to have a selectable locker go with a TRD elocker. (you can alwasy crawl under it and manually shift it if the ˟˟˟˟˟ hits the fan) Go with a detrot product for the rear, you wont be sorry.

as for up front, well thats a diffrent story. ARB is about your only option for a selectable. personally i would go auto locker and manual hubs. If i needed all 4 spinning ill get out and lock up the second hub.

going from 4.56 to 4.88 (6.5% taller gear) just doesnt seem like enough to justify the cost in my mind. (oth 4.10 to 4.88 is 16% taller, and certanly worth it IMO)

 

as with any modification, mechanical part, etc...it requires maintence. Of course if you dont inspect air lines, fittings etc once in awhile it could become a problem at the worst time, and place in the middle of nowhere.
Theres people I know who have ran ARBs for 6 or 7 years, no problems and others that have had issues. The install is the most crucial, as is maintence, replacing o-rings, air lines, accordingly. E-locker or ARB, both are proven and quality products, cant go wrong either way.

 

I would not waste my time or $$$ on switching from 4.56's to 4.88... you wont notice a differance at all as far as power goes... If you plan to add larger tire at any point make the jump to 5.29's and deal with the higher RPM's... besides the extra TQ w/ 33's and 5.29's is nice... If you are going to stay at 33's then stay w/ the 4.56's. Just my opinion.

 

TC, I say go for the 4.88s, the MPG increse will pay them off in short order. Also, be sure to let me know when the big day is, I have had the rear appart once, never th front but i would love to help and learn along the way.

ARBs are CO$TLY!!! They are worth it in my opinion, but if i had a stick shift I would get a Detroit in the rear in a heartbeat. I had a Lockright in the 92 and it was totally streetable with a little bit of clutch popping evrry now and then.

Up front, selectable (read ARB) or limited slip is the only way to go. Even if its not your daily driver the binding in the front will either blow up your IFS or cause understeer and send you down a hill at Wellsville and into the Ohio River.

I am either going with an ARB rear and TruTrac front or a Detroit rear and TuTrac front. I just need to investigate automatic lockers with automatic transmissions.

For a few good reasons I think it is more prudent to avoid an E-Locker retrofit at all.

Lamm

 

I didn't see any mention of who is going to do the welding and drilling of the axle housing to fit the elocker.

It seems the only problem people have with the ARBs is because of faulty installation. If the install is good, they last forever.

 

OK, I've used ARB's in Terrain that is plenty demanding and in more remote areas than you could even find except for Alaska... I ran 4x4 Tours on a ranch I worked for In QLD Australia and seeing as how the local Store/ suply depot was an ARB dealer (they're everywhere over there) We ran strictly Arb's in an Hj70 and an HJ80... NEVER had a problem. We abused these things 7 days a week not only as our daily drivers (that was my truck:see attached Pic) but as Tractors, Trail rigs, Expedition rigs, Hauling rigs, and even Brush fire Trucks... I'll say I trust ARB seeing as I had a 3000 acre Eucalyptus Fire raging on my ass, and the HJ locked up and scooted up the side of a hill before I got burned... Never got left stuck 500 miles from Home, and never had an issue with the compressor EVER... now we routinely checked and maintained the Air lines and the other bits seeing as this is something you do when your ass and life are one the line, but it wasn't a hassle...

The E-Locker looks to be a SWEET piece of equiptment, but it's not really so good as to need to bash the venerable ARB... there's a reason they've been around for so long... Not only that, but out of all the Toyota's I've seen and driven in Australia (you'd all LOVE these things) only 2 of them had E-Lockers... most everyboby buy's a flat minimum Tray-Back Ute and then goes down to the Farm Store and buy's all the ARB goodies(lockers Bumpers SKids, Fender Bars, Snorkel's etc...

Here's my rig... god I LOVED that truck... and this was before the Lift and 36/9.50 NDT's went on :drool:



here's a few other pics if yer interested http://photobucket.com/albums/f375/Diesel_Freak/

 

I refuse to read ARB bashing. Every single one I have seen that failed was because some goober couldn't route lines, keep the copper out of the ring gear or realize the pressurizing an 80 to 100 PSI system with more pressure than that will blow it.

E-lockers do not drop in.

For the front, do yourself a favor and get an ARB or leave it alone. The only dude I wheel with who does not have a front locker has a True Trac. When it works, it works well. When it doesn't it is frustrating.

If you use 4wd on road in snow, get an ARB or leave it open. If you don't like steering, do whatever.

I would run a rear ARB with stock gears until I could afford to add the front.

 

To answer some of the questions that have come up...

The long term plans for the truck are: armor, lockers, crawler, SAS (this will take several years to get to the SAS stage)

I have many resources for the welding, and am fully capable of any drilling, tapping, etc myself. I have absolutely NO clue as to how to set up gears.

I figure if you're putting in ARB's, why wouldn't you do both? Already have all the time and money into the compressor and install...

I was thinking Detroit rear/Trutrac front after driving Lysmachia's truck, but seeing what more people could do truly locked in the front made me lean more toward ARB. Once again, cost of this setup (if you include some provision for on board air) will be in the same ballpark as either of the others, won't it (~$800 in Detroit + TruTrac, $500 for installation/gear setup + $200 for compressor)?

If Detroit made the Electrac for Toyotas, this would be a much easier decision...LOL

 

If you want to install gears or locker or both by yourself, you can. Just do some research and figure out what's involved. Somewhat specialty tools are needed, but other than that is a patience game and making sure you take your time and do it right. Make sure you don't have a short time scale to work with, and you'll be fine.

However, if you pull the diffs, and take it to a shop, you can have the truck down for 2 or 3 days max, for maybe 200-300 per pumpkin.

As with Flygtensteins friend, i have a tru trac, but mine is in the rear. I would agree with his assesment, it works well when both wheels are planted. If not, then its frustrating. However, i thourougly enjoy mine for snow driving. The truck handles great on the slick stuff.

As for the ARB's, as with most products, you get what you pay for. Yes, there probably are a few that have had problems, even ones that were set up right. They are in a very small minority. You can spend 250 and get an auto locker. You can then deal with the ratcheting and popping and tire squelching that is associated with such things. They have their place, and it's not on a truck that sees more pavement miles than dirt miles.

 

You get a gold star Cheese! Most excellent post.

 

Yeah ... well....patience isn't exactly my thing. I'll have somebody with experience do it! LOL

Thanks for the advice guys ... will be placing the order for ARB's shortly. Anything else I should do while I got the thirds out? (Bearings, seals, etc)

 

Just get a gear install kit, like this INSTALL (scroll a bit to the yukon gear install kit). It will have new bearins seals etc, and the shop you go to will probably want to put it in anyway.

 

Thanks Brian.

Anything else? Hammer the studs out of the flanges so you can swap CV's easier.

Heck, why not cut that stuff off once you have the diff out?