I saw some videos on cleaning the carb and it looks fairly easy. I was about go get a kit but then I started seeing that people have smogging issues when they rebuild their carb???
I have a 87 22r and live in cali so emissions tests are a must but I don't like having to hold my foot on the gas pedal to warm up my truck or it will not stay on. Once it warms up it idles smooth....is
So what do you guys suggest on cleaning my carb?

 

Maybe some adjustment to the choke and the chokes' high idle settings are all thats needed.

 

Thanks man, I'll see if I can find instructions on adjusting them

 

I couldn't find information on that
Anyone know about what causes people to fail smog after rebuilding their carbs?

 

Don't want to sound harsh, but rebuilding carbs is a picky business where there no room for error if a good result is expected.

I suspect that the reason many machines fail smog after carb rebuild is that there is a lack of understanding and care on the rebuilders part that extends to incorrect tuning and adjustment of throttle plate/idle position, idle mixture, and the all important float level adjustment......... ad infinitum..............

Truly, if you don't have a sound understanding of cold-high idle systems, choke theory of operation, and choke adjustments........... ect.

You probably should not try to clean/rebuild a carburetor yourself.

Find a knowledgable person to start showing you what really go's on with carbs and start slow. Youtube stuff will just give you unwarranted confidence.

 

When separating the three halves of the carburetor, the bottom throttle plate assembly is essentially in a fixed position. There is an adjustment screw but unless one removes it, the throttle plate position will stay in place before, during, and after the rebuild.

The air/fuel mixture in a legitimate California spec Aisan (it's not spelt or pronounced Asian) carburetor has a pressed-in plug to prevent any adjustments after it leaves the factory. And since the California spec carb is a Feedback Carburetor, the primitive ECU will regulate stoichiometric via the O2 sensor and the EBCV (Electronic Bleed Control Valve).

As long as the kit has the right jets for a California spec carburetor, you'll be fine. There's usually an aluminum tag with some numbers stamped on them. If you go to someplace like NAPA Auto Parts, they will probably ask for that number. The main jet in a California spec carb is larger than the jet for the Federal carburetors. The feedback system uses added air to alter the air/fuel ratio instead of altering fuel, via that EBCV.

However, as Millball pointed out, the float circuit does need to be in spec. Any deviation, like a high fuel level, will cause the engine to run rich.

Also for the California spec carbs, the Automatic Choke (it's not an electric choke), is fixed (non-adjustable) from the factory. So if its working properly, then you can remove it and then reinstall it. However, from your first post, its sounds like the either the choke itself is not working or the Fast Idle Cam is not working, or spring or linkages.

The hardest part of rebuilding the carburetor is not the internals of the carburetor itself, but it is reconnecting all the different linkages that the carburetor uses. For that, take LOTS of pictures.

The issue after the rebuild is that the fuel in the float bowl will drain out the carburetor into the intake manifold. when it sits with the engine off. That is the single most common issue after a rebuild.