Thanks, I have it soaking now, I will try to pop the OVCV off, the linkage cluster is a little intimidating, is there any way to leave it intact as I rebuild the carb

Some progress
Barney move, went to fast, used vice grips, tested alright though

Seems strange where thie wire ends on this one

This would not come out

Couldn’t get this top end separated, seems I got all the screws out

Taking lots of pics
This got hammered from the the air cleaner, (above pic)

The linkage looks complicated but it will stay together so to speak. The fast idle linkage will separate with the body and the throttle linkage will be on the base. Just make sure when you go to assemble the throttle base plate with the body that the long linkage (R) connected to the fast idle cams is on the right side of the shaft and pointed up above the idle screw. It connects to the Choke plate on the air horn. The Throttle linkage (L) connects to the other side.

That air horn looks like it was ran without a gasket for far too long. That thing is really chewed up. Check to make sure it is still square before you do anything else. IF it is, you may be able to put some additional gasket material to help seal it off like a home door or window seal sticky foam. But definitely get a new air gasket for your air cleaner.

Check to make sure there's not a small screen stuck inside the air horn. There should be a small plastic screen that fits on the end of the needle seat. Your picture doesn't show one.

Go ahead and remove your main jet, slow jet, the plastic needle guide, and the power valve from the body. Then I think you'll be ready for a good long soak.

Put all your screws, springs, and small bits into your basket and get those soaking. Leave out any soft parts with gasket material as those will be replaced along with your needle and needle seat valve and your power valve.

You'll have way more gaskets and small parts left over from your kit as you don't use them all. I think they also give you a couple of extra air horn gaskets just in case you screw up and have to go back in.

Thanks for the help Tim


Is this what your referring to as the air horn? How do I check to make sure it is still square?

When you say there should be a small plastic screen that fits on the end of the needle seat, is this the needle?

Here is the cleaner I have

As far as the soaking, my understanding is, don’t soak the aluminum parts as well as what you mentioned .I am cleaning the old gaskets off with a razor blade, then sanding with 600 grit paper.
I see that I don’t have to break down the linkage completely, nonetheless I took pics
One more thing, Someone on another forum suggested coating the gaskets with grease that way if you need to go back in to change a jet the gasket can be reused, what is your take on that?

The top section of the carburetor is the air horn. Lay it on the edge of a table with the linkage hanging off so you can lay it flat. Use a small level to lay across the top of the air horn. You've only got a few spots that you can actually put a level on it.

Flip it over and use a straight edge/level and check to see if the air horn is twisted in anyway on the gasket side. You'll be able to see light gaps between the level and the air horn if it's twisted or warped.

That is the needle. The needle seat is the part that screws into the air horn and the needle rides up and down with the float. There should be a fuel screen attached to the needle seat. It may be stuck down in the air horn or it may not be there. Just make sure it's not stuck inside.

Do not use Purple Power for soaking. Even leaving it on the surface of aluminium too long can cause problems. You need a can of Berryman's Carburetor cleaner. If you can't find that use kerosene.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=berryman%2...ra&ia=shopping

I wouldn't recommend using grease. You have extra air horn gaskets in case you need to go back in. And if your running this carburetor on a stock motor there should be no reason to change out the jets. Just remember to leave your air horn screws just snug until you're certain you have the linkage correct. That way you can align everything without crushing the gasket. Once you're complete, double check all of your screws for tightness on everything.

Use a wire wheel attached to your drill motor to clean the gaskets off. Scrape off what you can but be sure not to scar the gasket surfaces with metal tools. The wire wheel will be your new best friend....lol. Once you're finished soaking your parts you can use the wire wheel to remove all the rust and polish the aluminium body.

It's kinda hard to tell with my big head shadow but here's the air horn that has not been cleaned compared to the body that has been cleaned.

Okay no on greasing the gaskets and leave the screws loose
wire wheel for cleaning got that
so your saying soak the carb itself and the screws, springs in berrymans carb cleaner?
Thanks

okay I will check if the air horn is level, its difficult because the lip got buggered, should I sand that lip flush?
I did not see any plastic screen, will check again

I wont use the purple power
Thanks a lot

I didn’t really want to mess with this egr(?) /emissions stuff but I noticed it was blocked so bad I had to address it, I was going to block where it goes back into the engine and leave it open where it comes out of the block, using a sheet of stainless and copper to cap it
Carbon buildup

Blocked pretty bad

This is what I am using to prep for the gaskets, abrasive discs, poly wire wheel and scraper made from a sawzall blade

Here is what I am using to block the former “carbon passageway “

Cut a gasket for the abused air horn

I deleted my EGR years ago and blocked off the port. As far as the air horn goes I'd use some extra gasket material just like you're doing to help the OEM gasket. If you're missing the OEM gasket go here...The picture doesn't look right but they may still have the right one. I think the part # they're showing is actually for the round gasket that goes inside the air cleaner under the filter. Otherwise, you may just have to double up on the gasket material.

Yeah, I have the oem gasket, it is shot, part of the problem is the air cleaner mount has been busted so there was lots of movement, I will pick up the oem gasket and see about repairing that mount.
Thanks for the help

Did not use these

Latest setup to block the egr inlet

Does this ( red)catch both springs on the choke housing

My guess is I position the small spring (yellow.) with the tab on the big spring (red)

This spring looks a little worn out( this is unrelated to the rebuild kit)

Has anyone else had problems with missing parts from this outfit? It did not even come with a parts list, so I don’t even know if it was supposed to be in there Weak

Apparently this was not in the rebuild kit, it’s the ovcv diaphragm

You're on the right track. The tab slips into the square (yellow) spring tab and that spring butts up to the main spring tab(red). When you get the linkage hooked up adjust it (turn the heater CC) so it will snap the choke closed when you barely open the throttle.

I just realized the same thing tonight about the OCV. Apparently I didn't break the other one down when I rebuilt it. Technically it's a separate piece but you would think they would include that diaphragm. I'll have to reuse mine. Try repairing your gasket with some grey silicone.

Has anyone just eliminated the ovcv valve, or is that not an option?

Thanks Tim, I am looking for the ovcv rebuild kit, no luck yet

I missed this question from earlier....Yes, everything except rubber, paper, or diaphragms goes in to soak. It helps loosen the rust and as bad as yours is rusted you may have to soak it, scrub it, soak it scrub it, a few times.

Let me know if you find anything. Someone (china) is making new ones as they come on the cheap china copies selling all over ebay/amazon. If nothing else you can use the cheap china carburetors for new spare parts....lol. But remember, all you really need on the OCV is the diaphragm to seal and function. I know the gasket looks pretty bad but the seal needs to be around the diaphragm. I would run a small bead of grey silicone around the circumference of the diaphragm and bolt it back up. That's if you can't find one.