95 T100 5VZ-FE Wont turn over
#1
95 T100 5VZ-FE Wont turn over
Hi guys, new poster. I did a few searches for a few different terms. Didn't find any threads or results that matched my search criteria. We can go over that if we need to later.
My 95 T100 5VZ-FE has been getting more challenging to start. When I say it wont start, it doesn't turn over. I don't hear the click from the starter but I see my gauge lights dim so it seems power is being pulled to try to start. Im intimidated by volt meters... shocked myself too many times(in my house).
The Facts:
Any ideas on what to check next? I can take pictures and post of anything you guys think would be helpful.
My 95 T100 5VZ-FE has been getting more challenging to start. When I say it wont start, it doesn't turn over. I don't hear the click from the starter but I see my gauge lights dim so it seems power is being pulled to try to start. Im intimidated by volt meters... shocked myself too many times(in my house).
The Facts:
- Often starts after sitting for a few days
- Wont start again after its been driven till warm
- Installed new reman starter
- cleaned contacts on connecting wires
- swapped relays in kickpanel
- Battery charged
- Manually turned engine to make sure not hydrolocked, never see white smoke when it does start
Any ideas on what to check next? I can take pictures and post of anything you guys think would be helpful.
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
What kind of shape are the battery terminals and cables in.
Have they been upgraded since you owned this truck
These parts do degrade over time.
Do you have a automatic or a manual transmission?
Do you have a good connection (clean and tight) on the solenoid ??
Just where did you buy your starter some are down right junk!!!
As long as you don`t grab spark plug wires on running engines you should be fine.
You really need to get some real time voltages here to troubleshoot much further
No Mil ??
Not getting the charge light on ??
Some place when things get hot in the engine compartment it is causing the starting circuit to open.
Then it very well could be the ground cable just does not carry enough current when it gets warm.
Then it could be the T100 curse.
Have they been upgraded since you owned this truck
These parts do degrade over time.
Do you have a automatic or a manual transmission?
Do you have a good connection (clean and tight) on the solenoid ??
Just where did you buy your starter some are down right junk!!!
As long as you don`t grab spark plug wires on running engines you should be fine.
You really need to get some real time voltages here to troubleshoot much further
No Mil ??
Not getting the charge light on ??
Some place when things get hot in the engine compartment it is causing the starting circuit to open.
Then it very well could be the ground cable just does not carry enough current when it gets warm.
Then it could be the T100 curse.
#3
LOL, the T100 curse... Havent heard that one yet. So its an automatic. I bought the truck in May knowing it had some problems (blown headgasket). I got gasket kit, rebuilt head up and it was running fine for several months. Then the start of september it started to have issues with starting. Because it would start occasionally, I was thinking it was the starter that needed to be replaced. I went down to autozone and bought one, remaned as I said before. I still have my old starter so I can put that back in. With the old starter, I would hear it at least click. The new starter I dont hear anything.
As for the terminals and cables, new battery, clean terminals. The cables are showing some wear at the terminal end. I see some fraying on the positive. The negative looks good so far. I can go get a volt meter if you can tell me how to use it.
When you say connections to solenoid, you're meaning the two connectors on the starter? They are clean and snug.
Ok, now MIL, the engine doesnt start to actually turn off the check engine light. i guess i could turn key to on and see if it stays on.
when you say charge light, what do you mean?
As for the terminals and cables, new battery, clean terminals. The cables are showing some wear at the terminal end. I see some fraying on the positive. The negative looks good so far. I can go get a volt meter if you can tell me how to use it.
When you say connections to solenoid, you're meaning the two connectors on the starter? They are clean and snug.
Ok, now MIL, the engine doesnt start to actually turn off the check engine light. i guess i could turn key to on and see if it stays on.
when you say charge light, what do you mean?
#4
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Being it is a automatic and seems to be heat related. I wonder if there is a poor connection in the neutral safety circuit .
If the lights go dim it is not the neutral safety.
Your Mil will only go out with the engine running .
Are any of the lights on the dash lite when it was running?/The charge light is the one that looks like a battery.
How are you sure the battery is charged or taking a charge unless you double check with a meter.
If you can hear the starter solenoid pull in you must have super hearing most likely one hears the Circuit opening relay drop out.
It comes down to low battery charge
poor battery terminal connections or cables this includes a poor ground as well
A very poorly rebuilt starter.
If the lights go dim it is not the neutral safety.
Your Mil will only go out with the engine running .
Are any of the lights on the dash lite when it was running?/The charge light is the one that looks like a battery.
How are you sure the battery is charged or taking a charge unless you double check with a meter.

If you can hear the starter solenoid pull in you must have super hearing most likely one hears the Circuit opening relay drop out.
It comes down to low battery charge
poor battery terminal connections or cables this includes a poor ground as well
A very poorly rebuilt starter.
#5
What wyo said. It all comes down to where its loosing power. You say its a brand new battery with full charge. So you should see a strong 12v if the voltmeter leads are touching each post on battery. You should see 12v from positive battery terminal to where the block ground is and where the body ground is. You should have a strong 12v from body and engine block to where the positive wire attaches at starter. Lastly you should have no less then 10v to the starter signal wire to ground when the key is turned to start and you have one lead touching that wire and the other to a ground source.
#6
Ok, so I got frustrated not knowing how to use a volt meter and time running out. It went to a shop. They said the battery terminal cables weren't in good shape and the reman starter from autozone was bad. I just had them fix it.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Thanks for the advice guys.
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