I know the 22RE sounds like a sewing machine, and taps and ticking are usually a normal sound. I have a couple videos where you can hear a tapping sound in the background. The motor only has 190K on it so Id assume it has a ton of life left. When the motor gets warmed up, I can hear the tapping through the inside of the cab, on the passenger side. The tapping is usually heard from where the glove box is. I know it is not a rod knock, the tapping is slightly faint, but its there.

I just wanted to see if it is an unhealthy sound? And to see if I should adjust my valves?
http://www.youtube.com/user/cancerwi.../0/mtHG4qaNCpE
http://www.youtube.com/user/cancerwi.../1/wkBxNsxzkCM

 

It sounds like the tapping sound is comming from the back cylinder, you might try adjusting the valves and see if that helps. Why was it idling so high in the video ?.

 

It doesn't sound abnormal to me. x2 on adjusting the valves, and why not do a tune up while your at it, plus could the oil use a change?

 

It doesn't sound abnormal to me. x2 on adjusting the valves, and why not do a tune up while your at it, plus could the oil use a change?

 

also: it does not sound like a smooth running 22RE. it's running rough. my opinion it needs a tune up. and fresh oil with filter. You'll sleep better, too.

 

The oil is changed every 5000Km, It has a LCE header on it, downey air intake, and the cat was cut out. I am not sure if that should affect the way it is running though. What could that possibly mean if the tapping is coming from the back cylinder? It wasnt idling high, it was at 1000 RPM on the dot. I might turn the idle down tomorrow though. So what should I do for the tune up? How hard is it to adjust the valves?

 

I was also thinking about doing a seafoam treatment on it, and seeing if that will help?

 

I tried to adjust the idle screw, but it was turned all the way! What could this mean? Is there anything I can do?

 

Sounds much like mine really!
I've been assuming my noises are valve train,rod knock or timing chain, not sure what your sounds are though. I understand the might 22RE are supposed to make a lot of strange noises!!
My 22RE sounds rough because it runs rich, because of a leak in the pipe by the o2 sensor.

After I got some new injectors that did not leak,I could turn my screw out. Not sure if it is directly related, but somewhere between tune up and injectors, I'd been able to take my idle screw out a few turns.

Go for the Seafoam anyway, and good luck!

 

Yeah the sea foam is soon, I want to adjust the valves, but I need to know how/ tools required.

 

When was the last time her vitals were checked and adjusted? Valves, timing, plugs, air and fuel filters, pcv valve, dist cap and rotor. What I do is get as much as i can in order, and go from there.

I learned how to check and set valves long ago with the book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot". I started out with the air cooled VW Beetle as my first car and HAD to keep it alive, and the author does a great job introducing the newbe to automotives in general. i recommend the section on tune up to anyone, and there's lots of good drawings that along with the explanation is much better than the words along from a Toyota manual. It's probably in your library - just take care when your hood's up...

 

idle screw all the way in and still idling around 1000? check and set the timing properly and make sure the throttle is closing all the way- make sure the dashpot and accelerator cable aren't holding the throttle open
look for vacuum leaks, and might also check that the IAV isn't stuck open

 

Oh yeah, the IAV valve (AAV) is another one I cleaned out, to get better result....

 

That valve is the one located under the throttle body right?

 

Sure is.

 

I would like to second the plea of the original poster, not to hijack his thread, but I too would like to learn to adjust the valves. I just replaced the hg and the timing chain. The autoteacher at my school (teacher) told me today that when the head is removed you have to readjust the valves. That is news to me, but I am no mechanic. My valves seems much louder now, but I fixed the exhaust manifold leak with a new gasket, maybe I can just hear the engine now? With the stick method, the rear valves seem ALOT louder after the head gasket fix. FYI--the rear cylinder is where the hg blew. I wonder if that is related? If anyone knows of a thread explaining how to adjust valves, I am sure that the owner of this thread and myself would be very greatful.

 

Although it might not answer all of your questions, this book helps a lot. I haven't adjusted my valves yet, but I am thinking of doing it soon, and looking at the section in here, it looks pretty helpful.
http://www.sendspace.com/file/wlvlh6 check it out.

 

There are other shortcut type methods but this is the basic, foolproof way to do it:

1) get the engine warmed up
2) stop engine
3) remove valve cover and disconnect coil wire from distributor (safety measure)
4) rotate crankshaft clockwise until both valves on #1 cylinder are loose
5) adjust the valves to spec
6) rotate crankshaft 1/2 turn clockwise until both valves on #3 cylinder are loose
7) adjust the valves to spec
8) rotate crankshaft 1/2 turn clockwise until both valves on #4 cylinder are loose
9) adjust the valves to spec
10) rotate crankshaft 1/2 turn clockwise until both valves on #2 cylinder are loose
11) adjust the valves to spec
12) install valve cover and coil wire
13) done

*** mind your fingers though, the engine is going to be hot.

 

I had a bunch of weird noises coming out of my engine, and the most prominent was the clacking/ticking you got. For a while it was getting out of control, and when I fired the engine up, it would run crap, with no oil pressure. The clacking noise would be almost enough to bring a tear to my eye, and would last until the oil pressure buildt. I replaced the oil pump, and it turns out the driving gear in the oil pump was broken, and the driven gear shot also.. With a new oil pump, the oil pressure is up dramatically, and the noise has subsided.

I believe the noise I had in mine is similar to yours, rough as guts and clacking away. This noise is the timing chain, slapping the cover, because the tensioner dont do it's job, due to the no oil pressure. With the new oil pump in, she sounds good again!

Next job for me is off course the timing chain cover, to prevent anymore hassel after it chews through.

However, it's hard to tell a noise off the internet, and it might be valves all the way for you. Thought I'd throw it out there, I had a bunch of people listen to mine, and got suggested anything from rod knock, piston slap, timing chain skipping a tooth(!), camshaft bearings and piston bearings, the various problems beeing anywhere from top end to bottom,and from 1 to 4 cylinder..................

Hope you got this up and running happily by now though!

(thanks Abe, for the valve adjustment post!!)

cheers

 

Those damn piston bearings fake me out everytime...