blueaussie

Gosh where to begin? I am having buyers/restore remorse.

I
Purchased a 95 a Toyota 4runner that had a rod nocking . The main reason I bought everybody is this baby looks brand new inside and body looks great except for faded paint.

I had a reputable garage install a remanufactured 3vZE ATK North
America engine in it .

From day one I had vacuum leaks that I fixed. When I got it out if the garage I noticed automatically it ran sluggish and the directional airflow for in cab would change directions when I stepped on the throttle . I was able to solve this. Please forgive my rambling but I have also continued to fight how sluggish it runs. I put new cat, fuel pump, fuel reg. filter, reconditioned injectors and recently smoked the intake and found the diaphragm smoked more then a crack addict, I replaced that , set timing , put on new NGK spark plugs and wires which were NGK except for wires which were orileys life time brand. My problem and I hope some of you can help me but I have a major problem with the shifting of transmission. I have tried at least 10 times to get the lockdown cable adjusted correctly but can't find the sweet spot . Then there ate Also the throttle cable and cruse controll cable. I used to have the service manual downloaded on my computer but it's locked up again so I don't know how to adjust these 3 cables or sequence. I was reading in another cable where some one said the kick Dow cable hooked directly to the trams. Which I believe is incorrect, I traced it down and it went into the firewall and I think hooked up to the ECM. I can't get this thing to run at high way speeds after fighting with this and finding that it is so hard to find parts for these great vehicles Toyota made. CAN SOMEONE be so kind to help me know how these cables should be adjusted PLEASE! At one point a couple of day ago I could not drive over. 55 MPH , after Adjusting the kick down cable I was able to get it up to 70 nut that took like 3 or 4 minutes to do so and would only do it after fearing the red band on tach I let off the throttle and then it shifted in a higher gets to achieve this . I would appreciate any bodies advice regardless.

Thanks so much !

Sincerely ,
About ready to give up the ghost!

fdp101452

I cant help with the auto shifting part of it, never owned an auto. My v6 runs better timed at 15, some run more advance than that but 12-15 seems to be right for my old pickup. With the price of ammo, Im not sure I would shoot it and I don't think shooting it is gonna help much........good luck either way.

Gevo

Do you have a check engine light? Any codes?
I dont know if misadjusted throttle cable is gonna affect the power of your engine. The throttle cable on my 91 3vze comes from the foot wel area of the firewall and goes to the passenger side to curve back to the throttle body. It connects to the lower rhalf round bracket that is closest to the throttle body. The cable stay bracket goes in between the two nuts on the cable. But really open your hood and push the throttle from inside and see how far it goes. If it opens the throttle more than 75 degrees I am certain your power issues are not related.

Also, check compression

scope103

What is the problem with the transmission, that you are trying to correct?

I don't know which transmission you have, or if there was a very big change '94 to '95. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...autotrans.html On all the rest of the transmissions the throttle cable goes direct to the transmission, but it is not a "kick down" cable. Instead, it controls how hard the transmission shifts (harder with more throttle). The kickdown (and all other shift points) are determined by the ECU with throttle position from the TPS (and temperature, etc.)

Good luck!

MaK92-4RnR

Never owned an automatic. Wish I could help.

blueaussie

I can't advance the timing, distributor has no more room
To move

blueaussie

Gevo, it does open more than what you described
Thanks for your input

blueaussie

Scope, thanks got correcting my DA, man I don't know what to do! Thanks got your input.

Gevo

blueaussie,

you must have an aftermarket (probably cardone) distributor. I also had the issue of not being able to adjust between 0 and 15 degrees on that one. One tooth up it would be min 15 advance, one tooth down it would be maximum 0. Sent her back, bought a used OEM from Ebay and everything is perfectly in spec.

blueaussie, you need to tell us if you see the check engine light on or not. Lot of knowledgeable people here that can try their best to help, but you have to give details and explain the problem properly.

So, take a breath, think about all of the symptoms and let us know anything else you haven't mentioned yet, and check your codes. Follow the directions here.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf

blueaussie

Thanks Gevo, I have never had a engine check light come on. I tried checking for codes on idle but to be quite honest with you it is way over my comprehension by reading a blinking light, I suppose I am one of those that learn by being shown. I have ohm the MAF and it's ok, I was reading this cheesy Chilton book telling me to ohm throttle valve, it said if I remember to put feeler gauge 20 the between throttle stop and it said it should read so many ohms, it than said check with I can't remember exactly the gauge thickness but said it should read no ohms, however mine still showed continuity. I not sure if what chilton is telling me is correct because I had gotten a throttle valve out if the junk yard and it still had the continuity at such thickness, I really really appreciate your help. I am going downtown to pick it up at a supposedly Toyota specialist that does not want to work on just like the dealer. I wish my computer did not crash on me because I had the true manual downloaded. I payed like 20 bucks for it so I'm sure that's gone. Again thank you so much for trying to help me. I appreciate this more than you could realize, there are'nt many people like you, My Dad was just like you, he loved helping people.
Thanks
Craig

Gevo

Truts me, there are many people on this forum that are willing to help. Before I started fixing my own car 9 months ago, all I knew is how to use my tools.

Now, you CAN check for the codes. it's easy. go to the diagnostics port. If you are looking into the hood from the front, it is on your left side wheel well area. Looks like this.


That yellow wire you see in the picture is connecting the TE1 and E1 terminals. So get a piece of wire or preferably a paperclip and push one end in TE1 and the othe rin E1.


Then go in the car, turn the key to ON.

If you check engine light blinks about 2 times per second and keeps doing that for lets say, 15 seconds, then you have no codes stored. If it doesn't immediately start blinking, be ready to count the blinks. It will blink just about one time per second. For example, if your code is 32 it will blink 1_2_3 then about 2 second pause and then blink 1_2_ more time. So the number of the blinks before and after the longer pause is what your code is.
IF you have a stored code, it will go a LONG way in helping to determine where your trouble area is.

If not, you just spent 5 minutes of your time to rule out a few components as the trouble area.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If you decide to unload a few magazines please only in the engine compartment .

Then we want to see pictures.

blueaussie

Gevo, I checked and flashed without a miss . Tried again, same thing, I doubled check the paper clip was in the correct slots and got the same . Thanks for your help!

Gevo

Ok. So no codes.

Now others can chime in to. If we have the same setup, than your transmission is also an electronically controlled transmission. So, it could be either a mechanical problem within the transmission or an electrical problem. The only thing I know of to do at this point is go under the car, unplug, clean and plug all of the transmission electrical connectors.

Otherwise, you may need to take it to a tranny shop.

I got mine rebuilt completely for $1300. Worth it for ease of mind.

blueaussie

Ok I will try that tomorrow. Thanks again for your help.

blueaussie

Gevo and others on this forum who are much ore knowledgeable I am going to try the electronic hook ups tp trans.

Could it be that my ECM be bad ? Just reaching out in desperation since I have pumped on more than. 5 grand.

Thanks everybody!

AdmiralYoda

What is your timing at now? Get it back to factory spec and go from there. Don't throw parts at it just to try and fix things. Find out whats broken and fix the broken stuff.

I'm thinking your timing is messed up. Is it the factory distributor or aftermarket?

blueaussie

Admiral it is set at 10 D BYDC zi believe that is what the specs call for.

The parts that have been replaced were truly needed. Except for the fuel regulator valve. I went with oem with that aftermarket would not hold static pressure. I smoked the intake and found the diaphragm on the EGR valve was busted, smoke poured out of it.

I really appreciate your help very much!

Thanks again.

blueaussie

Oh as for the distributor I am unsure.

blueaussie

Admiral, just checked there is a tag that says Toyota on the distributor.

Thanks