Brand new block. Had to swap head due to cheap itm cam.swapped head after 1000 miles.now have Air in radiator. Not overheating or blowing hose. Runs like a top! Someone help. Bout to buy another head and do another head gasket. Also did combustion leak test with liquid. Tests says no leak.

 

Wait till you get done with the new head, to begin with. You'll be either draining the coolant completely, or most of it in any event.
These trucks have lots of nooks and crannies where air get's stuck when you drain and refill the system. You need to make sure that, when you're completely done breaking the cooling system open for any reason, that you burp it properly. It's a very important step in oing work on the engine. Air in the system can make the truck run warm, even to the point of overheating.

When you fill the cooling system for the final time after doing work on the engine, you'll notice that it won't take as much as the book specifies. About 8 quarts, 4 Toyota Red concentrate, 4 distilled water. OR 8 quarts of Toyota Red premixed. That's the air hiding in the system, displacing coolant. You need to park the truck on a step slope, nose high so the radiator cap is the highest point of the system. A set or ramps works well as a "hill substitute". Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the cap, and the recovery tank to the FULL line. Put the cap on, but only to the first "click" it does. They have two, and you put it all the way to the second under normal conditions. Start the truck, and let it warm up. I mean WARM. Have the heater set to full hot, front AND back, if you have a rear seat heater. Let the truck run for about 20-30 min. Stop the engine, and using a heavy glove, and heavy rag over the radiator cap, tighten it all the way down.
Let the truck cool down completely. Like for an hour or two, with the hood open. Check the recovery tank and radiator. Chances are, the recovery tank will be close to, or completely empty. Open the radiator cap, and, if needed, refill the radiator completely, refill the recovery tank to it's FULL line.
Put the radiator cap on all the way, and you should be good to go. Drive it normally, but keep an eye on the recovery tank's fill level. If it get's much below FULL, top it up. You can check for air in the radiator by giving the top hose a squeeze. You'll hear any air in there bubbling when you do, and the hose will be much easier to squeeze than otherwise. If there's much air in the radiator, top it up as well.

THAT's the right way to treat the cooling system when you gt done working on the engine. It will most likely eliminate most, if not all, the air in the system. If you keep getting more air in the radiator, you've got a head gasket leak some place. Probably. With all the work you're doing, you shouldn't have a leak in the head gasket inless the head, or the block's deck, are warped. In any event, some air in the cooling system is perfectly normal after working on the engine. That's why you need to burp the system properly.

Hope this is some slight help...
Pat☺

 

Thanks 2toyguy, unfortunately i dont think any air is stuck. I've put 500 miles on new head. No milkshake under oil cap. Makes no sense. Runs great. No surging idle. Just a pressurized hose .took original head off after 1000 miles to swap head and cam, deck still looked brand new. Only difference this time is I added a koyorad when installing new head.