Showing my 3.slow some love and finally rebuilding it top to bottom. I have another thread on my auto transmission progress but nothing new on that since my last update.

I know people hate on it but I gotta try to make it work at least once.


This is the block the machine shop sent out. Fresh black paint job, came with coolant plugs, oil cooler port capped off, and bored what looks to be 1.0mm over already installed. At least thats what's stamped on the new pistons.



Got to work cleaning up the rest of my parts. If I have such a clean block I would feel bad throwing in the mounting brackets that were still caked with dirt and oil.



Masking worked well. I used VHT engine enamel from a rattlecan in cast iron. Its got just enough gloss and metallic shine to it. Not enough to take away from the rest of the motor though.



New Aisin water pump and oil pump, new OEM knock sensor from partsouq I believe. Water pump with the extra outlet for an oil cooler was cheaper, otherwise identical so maybe I will run a spare cooler later on. Yotashop's bolt kits made life a lot easier. Minimal cleaning and rethreading bolts already corroded by coolant exposure.



Heads and lower intake bolted up. ARP studs from the first time I rebuilt and MLS head gaskets.



Always make sure you strip out one of your exhaust studs. This is why I do mine in steps starting at about half torque. Rather know which studs are gonna need fixing before I ruin a gasket. Ordered the helicoil kit among other things I forgot and I will be resuming next weekend.

 

Interesting thread... I've always thought about what the best way to "Bulletproof" the 3VZE is. I want to do a 3,4 Swap, but that's more expensive and involved. Lets see if adding the new MLS gasket and ARP studs does anything to help with longevity, good luck!

 

I have heard just using a set of headers that eliminates the cross over pipe will keep the head gaskets going, the thickness of the head by the cross over is fairly thin and gets cooked by that crossover. Also 3.4 swaps don’t have to be expensive

 

On the topic of 3.4 I don't have a yard or a lot of time. I need a truck to be running again, the daily driver is on its last legs...

Good news though, I am borrowing space in a friends yard to finish the job. hoping I'll be out of the woods in less than a month.

Major road block at this point in time is the torque converter. I have jacked it up. Tried dropping the motor in with the trans still in the truck. Could not get the splines to line up whatsoever. Now were here.



Luckily the trans is out from underneath the truck as of yesterday so I can do this the right way. Local parts houses are not able to locate one except for "putting in requests" to rebuilders. So far one has been denied due to the shaft being messed up.

My options are a JEGS or a Cobra Transmission as far as I can tell. $160 vs $410. If anyone has experience with either brand please lmk.

Gonna order one by Monday or Tuesday to hopefully get this thing rolling soon.



It's about to rain for a week straight over here in Nor Cal so transmission is bundled up under a tarp. If anyone on these forums has a known good torque converter they'd be willing to sell me lmk?

 

She’s running, pretty damn well if I might add.

Last few weekends have been a rush to get it started up. Last minute parts here and there; but I would say it’s close to road worthy.

Last items on the list are install driveshafts, get a new power steering send line (soft line with the banjo is blown right open atm, oil shot damn near everywhere), and refill the transmission. Also in need of an AFM.

Even better news is that THE AUTO SHIFTS INTO DRIVE AND REVERSE.

I was doubting the possibility of the auto to actually function after all I did to it but the thing actually works. No more fooling with it until it’s full of oil but seeing the output shafts spin up after this whole time is a huge relief.

Does anyone have recs or a spare working air flow meter? Mine is throwing codes 24 and 31. Ive soldered some bits inside back together in the past but she may be deader now. I’ll pull the thing off and check one last time but if temp probe is gone I don’t think there’s a repair for that? Correct me if I’m wrong.

Also looking for tips on refilling the auto trans, that dipstick is so hard to reach with the air box on. Do I need to take it out and give myself the room or do I need to have the truck running, maybe some rubber hose would help extend the funnel?



Banana slugs not really related but I saw like six yesterday before working on the truck so that has to be a good sign.