Bought a new truck last week. 1986 22re efi, 4x4 pickup
Need to get it smogged before I can change titles to my name in CA apparently.

It failed smog this morning and the tech said that it was rich, and supposedly the EGR wiring has been modified, which i need to change to factory.

The results were:
IDLE: 891

%CO2:
Idle: 12.80
2500rpm: 13.82

%O2:
Idle: 0.2
2500rpm: 0.3

HC Idle:
Max: 150
GP:300
Meas: 617

HC 2500:
Max: 180
GP: 330
Meas: 240


CO Idle:
Max: 1.20
GP: 2.70
Meas: 3.06

CO 2500:
Max: 1.20
GP: 2.7
Meas: 0.71






After the test, I ran about 5oz seafoam through the brake booster, and found a sizable leak directly after O2 sensor. It's at the connection where the manifold joins to the downpipe. I would suspect this would cause a problem at smog but tech seemed unconvinced that a leak after O2 would make exhaust rich (we had a hard time communicating though, with his heavy spanish accent)

Before I dropped off at smog, I had run about 6oz of seafoam through half gas tank. Changed oil/filter, air filter. New spark plugs and also closed up some leaks after the cat with some muffler putty.

The weird thing is that I saw that PO had passed smog back in march of this year (although he did fail 10 days before the pass).



Can anyone give me any advice?

 

your thread title could be wrong, if it's really a 22re not a 22r, because the latter usually means carb'd... if you want efi guys to look, tell 'em what it is.

i don't think that the egr system has any direct wiring, but it has some hoses... did he mean wiring on the oxygen sensor? did you check to see if it's thrown any codes?

if there is an exhaust leak before the cat, it could be a factor, you want to fix that... there are a couple of round gaskets in that manifold/downpipe junction.

 

Sorry yeah. I should have said egr hoses connected improperly.

I tried to change the title but I guess it didn't work.

I ordered the two round gaskets along with new o2 sensor and exhaust manifold gasket set.

There is no cel when truck runs . So when i tried to do jump connector to see code it just kept a solid cel light in acc on. Unless I am doing it wrong.

 

and btw, in california it's always the sellers responsibility to smog a vehicle that they are selling, period.

fixing the smog problem will probably be good experience for you, but fwiw, you can probably take the seller to small claims court to recover the cost of any repairs that are necessary to pass smog.

the best thing to do tho is to never buy a vehicle that doesn't have a valid smog certificate, done within the last 60 days.

 

do a google search for the 4crawler website that covers code checking.

 

Last night driving home on freeway I saw cel randomly come on at cruising speeds for about 2 seconds. Then dissapeared. Happened 3 or 4 times. Haven't seen that before

Then, When I got home last night I did engine code check. 1 blink. Meaning okay. So I guess it didn't store the code, unfortunately.

. I redid hoses on EGR: the hose from the 3 pronged fuel filter and EGR valve itself were swapped.

I will also check ignition timing. There was so much crud on the degree markers, that you couldn't even see it, so I don't think it's been checked for a long time.

I was thinking about checking TPS, but it looks like a PITA to access screw to take off. But there's no hesistation/popping like there would be on my dirtbike if tps was off

 

hopefully the new o2 sensor will fix that.

search the forum for the simple first step egr test procedure.