Hey guys, I'm trying to find some definitive information regarding how much you can 'lift' or rather 'tilt' your engine to open up some clearance for the axle underneath. The most obvious problem I can see is what it does to the angles of the front drive shaft, but I'm also wondering what the 'max' tilt angle would be before the engine starts to run improperly. Here is a reference photo of where my engine is at in my build. Here is the build thread for the truck:
BUILD THREAD
I don't have exact specs for you other than this tilt is giving us about 1" of extra clearance above the axle. It feels a little too 'tilted' to me, but maybe it just looks weird and doesn't have any adverse consequences to being set up this way.

 

You can put it just about anywhere you want it BUT, you have to check what else you are possibly causing a problem with. Some guys move engines off center to make clearance as needed, tilt as needed, even rotate as needed.

The most obvious is the drive shaft angles. It will improve the rear and NOT improve the front.
Fan to shroud and radiator clearance.
Firewall clearance.
Whatever I forgot clearance. Just check everything.

I put a 3.4 in my truck and raised it and tilted it. I had to make adapters to raise my radiator/shroud and cut a hole in my hood. I didn't like the front drive angle so I raised the rear and had to modify my trans tunnel. The engine was still tilted 4 degrees.

The carburetor might not like too much angle. Old hot rods often used angled carb adapters. If you're off road the carb is never level anyway so that is something you will have to deal with regardless.

Some guys cut the oil pan for clearance and avoid all this or at least minimize it.

Flip your tie rod UNDER your steering arms.

On my front 3 link, the links are limited by the bottom of the frame, the oil pan and the slave cylinder. I notched the frame and set my bumps to where the steering linkage stops about 1/4" from my oil pan, 1/4" from my frame rails (near the front cab mounts) and the upper link almost hits my slave cylinder. So close I had to put pan head mounting bolts on it.

My driver side shock tower is about 1/4" or less under my master cylinder. I had to trim part of the top of the shock tower to have enough room to R&I the brake booster. I also had to notch the tower and run the steering shaft through it.

Looks like a baddass build. Good luck with it.
Scott in AZ.

Even if I raised my engine higher, The lower links would hit the bottom of the frame rails. So I'd have to cut off my front frame rails and tube it or something to get more up travel. And do something about the slave cylinder. Rotate the engine maybe?? Even if I took my engine out, there is only so far the suspension can go.

I mentioned all this just to give you ideas for YOUR build and what to look for clearance wise. Hopefully BEFORE you weld anything in permanently.

I see you're linking it. IDK what axle you're running or wheel back space. I ran 85 Toyota axle, high pinion front diff and I think 3.5" or 4" BS 17" wheels with 37" Sticky Micky's. Shock angles were tough to dial in. One degree difference either way from ideal had my spring either hitting the tire or the frame when cycling the suspension. Fore or aft was tight as well.