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4/7/06

The head has been milled 20 thousands. Looks good. I'm debating on having the block milled to get some quench back.

Here's some tech about quench from 4x4wire.com written by EB (http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&o=365&fpart=1)
"Quench is the close collision of the piston head to the flat part of the combustion chamber. We want it to be zero deck, or as close to that as we can get. Stock, the piston does protrude by about .006" or so, if yours does, this is fine.

The goal here is to get them all to as close to the same as possible and up where they belong.

If this measurement shows the piston is down from the top of the deck at TDC, you will need to disassemble and correct this by having the block decked. Tight quench means you can run proper ignition timing without pinging. A sloppy quench will create more pinging at less timing that the tighter compression ratio will, the blast effect of the close collision atomizes the mixture and distributes it better across the chamber."

I don't remember what quench I'm at but all 4 pistions are way down in the block. No good for performance.

We moved the 84 on the side of the house and moved the 85 into the garage. I probably won't get to work on anything for two weeks. My little girl is turning one in a week!

Volcom

5/8/06

My dad and I worked on the 4Runner again on Saturday. We ended up getting quite a bit done. We took the 85 (parts truck) and started marking and removing all the vaccuum lines, hoses, and engine wiring harness. I have never worked on an engine that greasy and oily. I have to wipe down the harness to get all the oil off of it.

We also removed the intake manifold and talk about nasty as well. There is a coating of oil inside the manifold from all the blow-by and the EGR pumping nasty exhaust into the intake. I'll have to take them to get hot-tanked, that's the only way they are going to come clean.

We also removed the tranny and t-case and got most of the dash taken off to gain access to the wiring harness. The engine is close to being out as well.

Next steps is to get the 22RE onto an engine stand and start removing everything I will need to build up my shortblock on the other engine stand. I have a ton of cleaning before that is going to happen however

Volcom

7/10/06

Saturday:
I spent all day working on the intake manifold, valve cover and rocker assembly. I have gone through 2 gallons of the Castrol purple degresser and two trips to the car wash (got soaked in the process ) Took apart the rocker assembly and scrubed on each of the rocker arms and rocker rods.

Sunday:
Finished up rocker arms. Worked on the 85 and removed the fuel line (PITA) fuel tank wiring, and fuel tank. Then we took the 84 fuel line out and bolted it to the 85 as well as the carb tank. We worked on the wiring harness. There are serveral wires with connectors that weren't used, wires with no connectors, and wires that have been cut all the way to the wire.

Oh yea, the wiring harness is one big grease ball so we (my dad and I) were cleaning it wire by wire. We unwraped most of it to repair some damaged wires so we'll clean it and rewrap.

Volcom

7/17/06

Thanks to my brother on Saturday, coming over and helping me out. We spent Saturday washing more parts in the solvent tank. We cleaned all the accessesory brackets, alt. , powersteering, engine braces, etc. and then I painted them. I bought some flat black for those, high temp aluminum color for the intake manifold, and some of the hard coolant lines, and ford grey for the block and oil pan.

The upper and lower intake manifold is getting carb dipped to get them completely clean. I also got the head back from my uncle. Looks good!

Volcom

7/24/06

Worked all weekend on the 4Runner with the pops. We got quite a bit done but still no running engine

Saturday 7-22-06
Back behined the solvent tank cleaning parts. We painted the newly carb dipped intake manifold silver and painted the valve cover chevy orange Block was painted new Ford grey.

Sunday 7-23-06
Moved the 84 from the side of the house into the garage and moved the 85 parts truck out in the driveway. We removed the three wiring harnesses from the 85, removed the 84 22R harness and put the EFI harnesses into the 84. PITA! I keep telling myself that this was easier than SAS'ing a newer 4Runner, probably not though.

Here's some pics


New Ford Grey. Probably the only thing Ford on this Toyota, except for some rear Ford F-150 springs


Chevy Orange. Probably the only thing Chevy on it.


Dash harness, PITA to remove


EFI vs. Carb dash wiring harnesses


Dash removed, no wires


All this stuff has to go back together before I can sell it


Engine bay, cleaned up with newly wrapped wiring harnesses

Volcom

8-6-06

Onword with the world's slowest 84 Toyota 4Runner buildup

Worked on the shortblock, getting the valves in the head.


No timing, head just sitting on block


Head bleeding with assembly lube


Adjustable cam gear vs. regular cam gear

Volcom

8-19-06

Got the head bolted down and all the timing set installed. I still need to degree the cam and adjust the valves before the valve cover can be bolted down.


Head bolts torqued down




Ready to be degreed





Valve cover shows up almost red in these pictures, it's actually bright chevy orange.

Volcom

9-9-06

My dad and I degreed the cam in. Stock cam centerlines are at 110 degrees. The cam degreed in at 112 degrees. So, the cam was 2 degrees retarded. Makes sense because the head had been shaved 20 thousands and they say for every 10 thou, it's a degree retarded.

Keeping the engine at a retarded cam timing would produce more high end HP. Since the 22RE isn't a high HP or high rpm engine, that power is wasted. Also, I'm planning on rockcrawling this thing, I need the power lower in the RPM range.

The 22RE's do well at 2-3 degrees of cam advancement. So, I dialed in 5 degrees of cam advance (2 for the head shave and 3 more for some HP).

I wouldn't have been able to do anything with the cam timing if I didn't have the adjustable cam gear.

After we got the cam degreed, we adjusted valve lash. We started putting all the accessories back together. Oip pump, water pump. I primed the oil pump by packed it with white lithium grease. On startup, I need the oil pressure so packing it with grease will get the oil pumping up in the head, cam, and valve train area.

Volcom

9/17/06

Cleaned up W-56 tranny that I bought 2.5 years ago. The stock tranny from the 84 is behind it, it's a G-52. It's weaker than the W-56. I used Castrol degreaser in the purple bottle, works great!

Volcom

10/1/06
My dad and I tried to get the Toyota up and running for the trip to Eagle Rock planned for the 7th. More engine shots

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10/16/06
We didn't make the timeline of the 7th. No biggie, we wanted to make sure we had everything hooked up and done right.

Here's the tach, oil pressure, and water temp gauges hooked up, ready for the engine to be fired up for the first time.









Engine fired up and everything was good, minus the scare of a blown headgasket. It was fine and just needed to be ran for the white smoke to go away.

Volcom

11/7/06
Finally got around to welding up my Marlin Crawler rock sliders I got for a birthday present over a year ago from my parents.









We are getting it ready for it's Maden Voyage this weekend at Old Chinaman's Gulch!

Volcom

11/8/06

Worked on the little things to get it ready. The dash is back together, front swaybar is off, oil pressure and water temp gauges are mounted in the cab, changed oil, put the gas tank skid plate back on it.

Volcom

12/18/06

I ordered some EGR blockoff plates this weekend. I've had some trouble with the EGR gaskets in the rear of the engine leaking and getting my clean firewall dirty. Plus, the whole idea of EGR is nasty. That's half the reason for me going through the head on this engine so complete. The EGR system completely gunks up the intake and head.

I also need to paint my sliders but I'm working on getting room in the garage.

Volcom

1/8/07

The goods show up!




Finally made some room in the garage and fit 2 cars in a 3 car garage




Grinded on passenger sliders for several hours with wire wheel on my angle grinder and cordless drill. Ended up buying some rust to primer spraypaint and hitting all the frame and scab plates with it. Then I semi flat blacked over it. It needs several more coats


Leaf springs


Extra tranny, top-shift case for duals, wider 86+ rear axle housing and my All Pro crossmember


Stack of 33" TSL's that I will probably run until I can afford some 36" Iroks


My new work area with messy work bench and storage shelving


Rusty driver side slider


Parts removed (rear bumper, spare tire carrier, mud flaps)


Rear end with stuff removed. I'm working on the rear suspension first.


Driver side slider with some paint on it.

Volcom

1/14/07

Well, previous owner must have had the rear suspension apart. Everything came apart very easy minsus one bolt (we'll get to that later). The PO didn't use any sort of metal sleeve in the bushings so everything came apart very easy.


What it looked like Saturday morning


Everything loose except one bolt, the front spring hanger bolt near the gas tank





My new toy from Christmas, it's got a new name, PROBLEM SOLVER




I also removed the spare tire carrier.


All made possible by my heater (Christmas present from gpn911 last year)



I'm now working on a rear stretch and removing the LSPV (load sensing postioning valve). It basically gives the rear brakes more braking power if it senses a heavier load in the rear. I'm going to probably take it out and replace it with something like this
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I will need to find brake fittings to go from 1/8 NPT to 1.0x10mm. That's going to be the hard part.

Volcom

1/22/07

Long weekend of work.

Saturday, took the 33's and my wheels to get mounted at wal-mart. It took 1.5 hours to get them done. The guy worked his rear off getting them mounted. Cost - $16

I used air soft pellets for weight. One container of 10,000 is equal to about 40oz's of weight, 10 oz's per tire.

I cut the spring perches off of the rear axle with a cutoff on an angle grinder. Ended up cutting deep into the axle tube on one side.

I wire wheeled, primer, and painted the rear half of the frame. Drained 84 axle of diff fluid.


Sunday
My dad came over and we cut all the spring hangers and shackle hangers off of the frame. Grinded them smooth. He filled the gouges in the axle tube with weld and grinded smooth. Tacked rear shackle hangers on frame. Tried to tack front spring hangers on but there is a good 1/4 inch gap between the frame and the hanger. They don't sit flush. So we are going to add some 1" strap to the hangers to make them easier to weld to the frame. We got one spring put into place and put the jack under it to see the shackle angle. I think it's going to work.

Volcom

1/22/07


Frame primered and painted









33" TSL mounted on 15x10 2.5 inch backspaced wheel. The tire is kinda narrow for these wheels but not a bad buy for a case of beer two years ago. Should work for Moab.



Rear spring hung, moved back almost three inches from stock.



Shackle hanger mounted almost all the way on the rear of the frame. Stock location of the hanger is the line scratched on frame between holes.



New front spring hanger tacked on. I will need to take it off and modify it a bit to get it to fit the frame squarly.



IFS rear axle with stock spring perches removed. I gouged up the axle housing with the cutoff so my dad welded a bead in the gouge and grinded them smooth.



Fitting rear diff armor.

Volcom

Saturday 1/27/07

We continued on the rear, wanting to get the rear with the wheels on rolling by the end of the day.




We added a strip of 1 inch strap to the front of the hanger to make sure we would have something solid to weld the hanger to the frame.



Rear springs on




My welding is getting better



We cut the drain plug out from the bottom of the rear housing



Drain patch in place, beveled edges to make sure material is going to get some weld after grinding them smooth



After welding, welds aren't too bad



After grinding smooth and welding inside



Diff armor in place





More weld pictures. Not bad for my second time welding

Sunday 1/28/07
Didn't get goal done of rear rolling Saturday. Oh well. There's always Sunday



Weight on the rear springs. I got some lift out of them over stock



One problem though. One shackle angle is 23 degrees and the other one is 13 degress. Same springs, same hanger locations. Any ideas??



Wheelbase is moved back almost 3 inches from stock.



We were tired of messing with the rear so on to the front. Kinda of a cool reverse pre-runner look



Got the front axle out



Can you believe how flat the stock front springs are??? I've got quite a bit of cleaning on the front axle.



My pile of junk parts is growing

Volcom

1/29/07

I figured I had three options.

#1 - Leave it to see if the springs sag into place
#2 - Swap springs from left to right like Terry said
#3 - I have an extra rear spring that got dropped on delivery. I could take the bottom leaf out (only one that was damaged), swap bottom leaves, and then replace that spring.

We were kinda burnt on working on the rear but I have a feeling that we're going to do option 2 or 3 one of these days :?

We didn't tighten the bolts until after the weight of the truck was on the springs.

Pinion angle should be decent. I won't really know until I can get the dual cases installed. I will be shortening my rear shaft my 6.5 inches and adding that to the front shaft plus whatever I need from the lift. I'm planning on running a CV in the rear shaft, taking it from the front DS for now. I'll square shaft the front without the CV and maybe later down the road I'll CV the front.