I am really looking for the right weber 32/36 kit for an 82 22r sr5, I would like to de smog the truck and get rid of ALL electrical issues I am having, I currently just put a GM one wire alternator on and it solved a ton of problems. I have read the whole de smog sticky write up and do not really see anything that relates to what I need.

I have AC that works so and this is a weekend cruiser at the most. no trails or bogging

1. which complete carb kit and who has the best prices.

2. what all block off plates do I need to delete ALL emissions, smog, anything electrical not needed. All I want is an electric choke.

Help me dumb down my yota, This is my first yota, I am an old school chevy guy and all this chasing stuff for rough idle, no charging etc, etc. I have had enough. I do still want my A/C to work though lol.

Also please post any pictures of any De-smogged 22r's with a weber.

also I am pretty sure to go with the 32/36 weber, but what does dgev and all that mean. which one do I need???

nevermind I de-smogged today and ordered the 32/36 yesterday, and the block off plates. Truck will be bulletproof soon from electrical and vacuum issues.

If you get a good seal with the carb adapter plates. Just be meticulous and clean until you think you're being OCD, then be more meticulous and clean, and you might get a good seal. If not, the other 2 options that are really easy to get a seal are the LCE spiral bore adapter or the Trans-Dapt adapter which is taller, and 1 piece instead of 2. Good luck and enjoy!

Oh yeah, and if you hadn't figured it out yet, DGEV means it's an electric choke 32/36, DGV would be a manual, and DGAV is a water choke.

So from reading this it must be hard to get a good seal with these adaptors?? I have never delt with them before. And yes I ordered the dgev carb.thanks for that info. When you say clean it are you talking about two plates or manifold.I know to clean it all good but which one gives the most problems. Also should I use any high temp silicon as extra

Very hard to get a good seal on the adapter plate given in the kit. Even the Weber branded ones. I've even tried using thicker gasket material to no avail. I went with a trans-dapt adapter. And from what I can tell so far, it's been working pretty good.

What's it run like when the plates don't seal good so I will know what to look out for.also where is the best place to get the trans dapt and what do they usually cost or should I just go with the lcespiral and just be done with it

I got my trans-dapt from summit racing (more trusted). I just told them to price match it with Race-mart.com which was the cheapest available online. I did however have to modify the throttle linkage "stand offs" to fit the taller adapter. As well as plug one of the vacuum holes in it.

I haven't heard anything bad about the LCE adapters. I just don't trust them. Customer service in some instances have been lacking, especially in the carb dept.

As far has how it will run with a leaking adapter, familiar yourself with vacuum leak symptoms. As it will act the same way, because that's exactly what a leaking adapter plate is.

im saving my coins for a weber

you better wes, I am hoping this thing runs as good as she looks.

Yeah, as Xxx said, it's the adapter plates. I wouldn't use silicone, as it tends to gel when exposed to gas.

It runs like a 2012 model when warmed up but them cold starts wear my right leg out

Just do yourself a favor and check all the screws on the weber. Remove the little brass screws on the butterflies and loktite or peen the ends. One of those fell out of my brand new weber and cost me a valve job and some dinged up pistons. The choke also came loose. Weber will not do anything about it either and since then I have heard the same from a lot of people. But after all that my truck runs better than it ever did with the stock carb.

Wow thanks for that info, I will Locktite everything for sure. Ok so who can tell me the best adaptor plate to get? does the spiral one actually give any better power or fuel mileage. or just go with the other one??

nevermind, just bought the LCE weber to stock 22r 1" spiral, and it looks like my order last week has not gone out yet so maybe it will get put in my original order box. Thanks guys for all this great info, The truck runs like a sewing machine other than the carb and vacuum problems I have had. This should solve those problem, I also just put a clutch and slave cylinder on her and going to put a new brake master and brake job along with a complete knuckle rebuild, got a few leaks down there, and on the engine I am going to tidy up.

also here she is in all her glory 82 SR5 with cold AC and 151,000 miles. My wife's grandfather bought it brand new and I am the second owner. She does have a newer body style bed, which I plan to replace when I find another short bed in good shape. No Rust anywhere and solid as my 09 gmc. Has 15 year old P78 buckshot mudders on white wagon wheels right now, But I did get a set of street tires with the original chrome wagon wheels. All gauges work, with the exception the fuel gauge stays on full with the power on. Anyone have any idea on how to fix this please let me know. I know the gauge is good. Its the sending unit. I am going to buy a set of solid ARE outlaw wheels for it and a set of 33x10.5-15 boggers in the future. This truck is just a knock around truck for me. I know about boggers so please don't lecture me on them. Truck will be lucky to see 3000 miles a year with me.

What yall think for 2500 dollars???

Where are you located? I have a rust free bed on my '83 I wouldn't mind trading if you're not too far away.

Wow what a deal but I am unfortunately on the East coast in the good old south of Mississippi. Just out of curiosity, why in the world would you rather have this bed than the stocker. also if you ever decide to sale it outright or would want to ship shoot me a PM, also a few pictures.

Mostly cause I plan to flatbed mine, but in the meantime, a canopy is easier to mount to that style bed. There is a possibility I'll be moving to Blacksburg, VA for work in the not too distant future.

If you do keep me posted and in mind, I would love to have the original bed rust free, my original bed is eat up for some reason and the rest of the truck is perfect, must have been different materials or something. my newer style bed is strait and rust free but the newer paint job is not the best, they didn't even tape off the toyota on the back, Just painted over it, But she's strait and rust free.