So I did have a 82 that someone put 20r in and a 5spd. But rust was bad.

I found another 82, less rust, with a Warn 8274 winch, Detroit locker in the rear, and brand new tires! 22r and 5spd. So I sold the other one.

Perhaps I shouldn't have, because at the moment, I have oil in the water, and water in the oil. That screams head gasket to me, but I want to know, is there anything else it could be?

If I were to change the head gasket, what needs to be done? Do I need to have the head checked and possibly planed down? Or do these heads usually not warp?

The dude I bought it from said the engine came from a newer truck and had EFI, he switched it to carb he said. I assume that means he changed intake manifold... any problems I should know about there?

TL;DR version
82 truck with 22r out of newer truck, motor originally had EFI - switched to carb, water in oil and oil in water - what do?

 

Replying to my own thread to say







Got it done, fired up first try (after cranking with coil wire off for a bit).

But I still have the carb problem that was there before I started. The carb has been cleaned 3 times, rebuilt, ect. It idles great, it runs down the road great, it only acts up when you open her up quickly (like stomp it to the floor). If you ease into it, it's fine.

I thought the pinholes in the old accelerator pump diaphragm was the problem, but no it now has a new one of them. Fuel level was right at the bottom finger on the glass, so I tweaked the float til it was at the top finger, but nope that actually made it worse so I changed it back. I also triple checked the power piston/valve/jet, they seem fine.

It does it both hot and cold.

Anyone?

I threw a weber on my last one, but due to money, that's not an option right now.

 

Nevermind, I got it. After a full day of fiddling and checking stuff, I finally realized that fuel wasn't spraying out the tube as it should when you step on it. I had neglected to look, because carb cleaner was squirting out of it when rebuilding it on the bench.

I then hooked a basketball filling needle to air, by the way a ball fill needle is a perfect fit for there. But even 110psi wouldn't blow out.

Took it off, took the top off, something that doesn't seem to be in the diagrams is that brass tube. It's actually a jet, and appears to be removable, but good luck with that. No matter, you can get a needle in the part that counts, with the top off. It's on the top, passenger side, kinda between the bowl and the small barrel of the carb.

This was more work than the entire engine was. But I'll know what to do next time.

 

No leaks, few tanks of gas through it... and rattle can paint job.



But!

17.2 mpg one tank and 17.4 the next... that is not going to work. My other one got 17.8 almost everytime, with 31's. The truck is running great. Plugs look good color. Timing is spot on, valves adjusted proper and no tapping. Has way more power than my previous one.

Now I know some things should/could help MPG. For starters, I'm not running with a thermostat. I want the dual valve Toyota one, so I gotta get to a dealer. Nearest Yota dealer is 60 miles away.

Dist cap, rotor, and plugs have been changed, but not plug wires. I did check the coil wire for resistance and it was well within spec. I checked only the coil because it does not miss, and I figured - it gets the juice 4 times more than a plug wire.

When I was rebuilding the carb, I noticed a previous owner has cut (with side cutters) the plunger off the end of fuel cut solenoid... When does the soleniod come into play? Coasting down hills? I drive alot of hills. All highway though, and no high elevations. How it is running good with it like that

Knowing these things, what should post the biggest MPG gains? Plug wires? Thermostat? Fuel cut seloniod? Any other ideas?

 

Huh... I never posted a before picture, I coulda swore I did. Well here's the reason for painting it.



To drive it like that I woulda needed to grow a mullet. But likewise I didnt want to fool with that decal... paint over it! I hate the rollbar but the wife likes it soooo...