what kind of amp should i get for my subs?
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what kind of amp should i get for my subs?
I just received my 2 12in Rockford Subs, they're 150watt rms 400watt max. Theyre going to be in a sealed enclosure and would like to know from all the audio experts out there what wattage amp i should get to sufficiently power both, thanks
#2
Originally Posted by FUZION
I just received my 2 12in Rockford Subs, they're 150watt rms 400watt max. Theyre going to be in a sealed enclosure and would like to know from all the audio experts out there what wattage amp i should get to sufficiently power both, thanks
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will a 300/2 be sufficient juice, i know that that is the rms for the woofers, but would a 400/2 be good as well? thanks
edit and is that 300/2rms or max for the amp
edit and is that 300/2rms or max for the amp
#4
Originally Posted by FUZION
will a 300/2 be sufficient juice, i know that that is the rms for the woofers, but would a 400/2 be good as well? thanks
edit and is that 300/2rms or max for the amp
edit and is that 300/2rms or max for the amp
I now have 1-12" JL W3. I have a 300 watt amp going to that alone. I dont really like a lot of bass, i just like having a full clear sound. I dont know any good 400/2 amps. It all depends on how loud you want your bass to be
You could also try ebay. They have some good stuff sometimes.
Last edited by Localmotion; 07-07-2004 at 06:38 PM.
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Originally Posted by FUZION
will a 300/2 be sufficient juice, i know that that is the rms for the woofers, but would a 400/2 be good as well? thanks
edit and is that 300/2rms or max for the amp
edit and is that 300/2rms or max for the amp
One word of wisdom. It's better to overpower your subs than to underpower them. Underpowering is what causes subs to blow.
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Originally Posted by OneTrickToy
One word of wisdom. It's better to overpower your subs than to underpower them. Underpowering is what causes subs to blow.
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Originally Posted by FUZION
thanks i had no idea
Keep in mind this doesn't mean you can send tons of power to your subs. What happens is most amplifiers are overrated, even on their RMS. So when you have what you think is a matched set, you are actually sending the amplifier less clean power. That dirty power is what will blow the subs. Generally by overpowering you are still in the clean power range at the subs handling power. So as long as you don't crank up the amp and "try" to blow your subs, they will last longer and sound cleaner.
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I also agree with JL Audio amps, why? I have one running my sub. But my choice would be the 500/1 Mono block amp built for running sub(s). I don't know your setup, but the optional remote bass control is a nice option to make those 2 subs stealthy when your parking your truck in not so great area's. JL does underate there amps, they are great for the power they produce cleanly, and best of all run very cool. I have mine sitting in the space for the jack and it has no problem running at all.
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what is the impedence on your subs 4ohm 8ohm 12ohm???? you could get a smaller amp that would run the two subs at say 2ohm mono and do it that way. the jl amps are good but a little pricey. i use cadene equipment in all my vehicles but i dont know if its available in your area. i sold cadence for some time and never had any problems...
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Originally Posted by splitz
I say go with Pyramid or Rockwood (and no Rockwood is not a type-O)!
I used a Pyramid Reno series 240w amp when I first got subs. What a joke! I still have the amp sitting in a box somewhere. I've given away and sold amps and subs, but that's one amp that I wouldn't ever give to someone. It's that horrible!
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I installed two of those subs into my brothers Ford F250 pickup using an MA Audio 400-watt amp that we picked up off of Ebay for $66 after shipping. It has a full warranty. We wired the subs in parallel to drop their impedance to 4 ohms. I must say that this rattles my teeth and the amp is running great.
He is another one from the same dealer at that price: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...709073007&rd=1 I put one in his truck and I put another in mine. They are wonderful.
If you think you need some more power then try their 800-watt mono amp for just $25 more. Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...709072559&rd=1
They are refurbed, but have a 2-year warranty.
I think this is by far the best bang for the buck.
He is another one from the same dealer at that price: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...709073007&rd=1 I put one in his truck and I put another in mine. They are wonderful.
If you think you need some more power then try their 800-watt mono amp for just $25 more. Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...709072559&rd=1
They are refurbed, but have a 2-year warranty.
I think this is by far the best bang for the buck.
Last edited by DavidA; 07-09-2004 at 05:29 PM. Reason: typo
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clarion deck Im definitely going the ebay way for my amp. I was looking at the Profile amps that are chrome and gold, anyone have any input on these.
just purchased my new deck too
just purchased my new deck too
Last edited by FUZION; 07-09-2004 at 09:07 PM.
#14
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Originally Posted by OneTrickToy
...Underpowering is what causes subs to blow.
The ONLY way to blow a sub is to induce mechanical failure of the suspension or to induce thermal failure of its coil.
You can NOT induce thermal failure of a coil by under powering it. FACT.
ps - this is not a flame, however this is an old wives tale I have heard over and over in this sport and quite literally is a pet peeve of mine.
#15
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Originally Posted by OneTrickToy
Keep in mind this doesn't mean you can send tons of power to your subs. What happens is most amplifiers are overrated, even on their RMS. So when you have what you think is a matched set, you are actually sending the amplifier less clean power. That dirty power is what will blow the subs. Generally by overpowering you are still in the clean power range at the subs handling power. So as long as you don't crank up the amp and "try" to blow your subs, they will last longer and sound cleaner.
What IS important is the wave form of that power. Less power doesnt kill anything. But in you scenario, someone clipping the dog snot out of their amp is basically sending a square waved signal to the sub. Since we know power is the area under the curve of the signal a clipped signal will carry far more power than a non clipped signal.
So in the end it is too much power that blows the sub, not to little.
Remeber that while an amp's RMS value may only be 300watts, if fully clipped, it can generate WELL over 700 watts through the clipped waveform...
Again it is too much power that will kill your subs, not too little.
#16
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Originally Posted by FUZION
clarion deck Im definitely going the ebay way for my amp. I was looking at the Profile amps that are chrome and gold, anyone have any input on these.
just purchased my new deck too
just purchased my new deck too
Id avoid those amps like the bubonic plague myself....
Im currently running Zapco and RF gear in the amplification department.
Right now, the best bang for the buck (and the most bullet proof) is the mtx 81000d / 1501d. Used they can be found for 250 + shipping and are quite underrated.
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Thanks, next week my yota will be bummpin. what do you think is a reasonable price to pay for installation of the deck,subs,and amp, or should i install the deck myself?
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If you take your time planning it out then you can do it. The deck is pretty easy to do, the radio sleeve should slide right in and you can lock it with the metal tabs.
I strongly recommend that you get the wiring harness that you can solder onto the radio that will let you plug directly into the factory harness. Will let you reinstall the factory radio later if you decide to sell it.
Get amp wiring kit for the amp. Run the power cable to battery, etc. Mount the amp if a good location for cooling and security.
I like doing it myself, but depends on how much your local installer charges. Good Luck.
I strongly recommend that you get the wiring harness that you can solder onto the radio that will let you plug directly into the factory harness. Will let you reinstall the factory radio later if you decide to sell it.
Get amp wiring kit for the amp. Run the power cable to battery, etc. Mount the amp if a good location for cooling and security.
I like doing it myself, but depends on how much your local installer charges. Good Luck.
#19
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Do it yourself!!! Do NOT trust any shop with your baby!!
Also, dont use the GM slide in mounting system - I mean no offense, but that system is so rediculously half assed...Theives will have your radio in under 2 seconds flat.
Take your time, and use the conventional ISO din mounting system that secured the OEM radio. You deck will skip 1000x less that way.
But as was said above get a custom wiring kit for your radio. It will have a plug that plugs into the OEM radio plug and it's wires are to be soldered and crimped onto the new radio's harness. This way your stock wiring remains 100% intact.
Also, dont use the GM slide in mounting system - I mean no offense, but that system is so rediculously half assed...Theives will have your radio in under 2 seconds flat.
Take your time, and use the conventional ISO din mounting system that secured the OEM radio. You deck will skip 1000x less that way.
But as was said above get a custom wiring kit for your radio. It will have a plug that plugs into the OEM radio plug and it's wires are to be soldered and crimped onto the new radio's harness. This way your stock wiring remains 100% intact.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 07-18-2004 at 06:57 AM.
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THANKS im just waiting for my headunit and amp to get here on thursday, where should i run the wires for the amp through to the headunit, under the carpet??