tire carrier.....done
07-10-2005, 04:32 PM
#1
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tire carrier.....done
finished it up yesterday, drove 200 miles with it today and steady as a rock
angled the tire 30* to match the slope of the hardtop rear
angled the tire 30* to match the slope of the hardtop rear
07-10-2005, 05:12 PM
#3
I hope you have more holding that up than the one vertical piece that is visible. On road is nothing...off-road will put significant forces on that sucker with that tire up that far off the bumper bouncing around. Some more pics might help to see it better.
07-10-2005, 05:37 PM
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visibility is good. i put it off to the driver side for that reason. the majority of the tire sits in my blind spot.
brian, it is just held up by that one peice its 2" square tubing, so it will hold
brian, it is just held up by that one peice its 2" square tubing, so it will hold
07-10-2005, 07:28 PM
#6
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Brian has a point, I don't think that would last long with my driving. 
It really woudl be a good idea to triangulate that, maybe add a gas can r something too. That is alot of leverage and weight.
33x12.50 thick walled mud tire on a solid alloy wheel....that's near 100 pounds and it's moving on a 2-3' long pry bar......
Oh yeah, I don't mean to sound overly negative. The construction looks top notch and the angle is a great idea....looks good. I'd just like you to consider the possible faults in the design.
It really woudl be a good idea to triangulate that, maybe add a gas can r something too. That is alot of leverage and weight.
33x12.50 thick walled mud tire on a solid alloy wheel....that's near 100 pounds and it's moving on a 2-3' long pry bar......
Oh yeah, I don't mean to sound overly negative. The construction looks top notch and the angle is a great idea....looks good. I'd just like you to consider the possible faults in the design.
Last edited by deathrunner; 07-10-2005 at 07:29 PM.
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07-10-2005, 08:24 PM
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Yeah, it will hold....
I thought I had deja vu on this one, sure enough.
Check it out. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=carrier
I thought I had deja vu on this one, sure enough.
Check it out. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=carrier
07-11-2005, 05:37 AM
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Mine is 2" tubing with a jack and tire, of course it works on a pivot bolt and a 3/4 retaining clevis
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...8/f3c02e8b.jpg
The manufacturer says it will handle a 38" just fine..
By the way, Great job on the carrier
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...8/f3c02e8b.jpg
The manufacturer says it will handle a 38" just fine..
By the way, Great job on the carrier
Last edited by shiftless89; 07-11-2005 at 05:38 AM.
07-12-2005, 08:14 AM
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thanks for all the feedback
like i said, it will probably stay like this for the near future. i have considered adding an upper hinge point above the tail light and integrating it into some quarter panel protection, but i have other projects to finish first. (sliders and such)
i just realized i should have put this in the fab shop forum :pat:
like i said, it will probably stay like this for the near future. i have considered adding an upper hinge point above the tail light and integrating it into some quarter panel protection, but i have other projects to finish first. (sliders and such)
i just realized i should have put this in the fab shop forum :pat:
07-12-2005, 08:29 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Napoleon047
finished it up yesterday, drove 200 miles with it today and steady as a rock
angled the tire 30* to match the slope of the hardtop rear
angled the tire 30* to match the slope of the hardtop rear
rear tire carriers NEED a 10,000lb + trailer hub assembly to stand up to the stresses of being beaten on offroad...
07-13-2005, 04:16 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Napoleon047
yeah, a 3/4" grade 8 bolt.
:pat: wow, you mean to tell me that you place your entire financial future and other people's lives on the strength of a single Grade 8 bolt???
yeah, it's big, but a trailer hub works much better and they're fairly cheap...
Last edited by bamachem; 07-13-2005 at 04:17 AM.
07-13-2005, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bamachem
that must be a 3/4" head. doesnt' look like a 3/4" diameter from the pic...
:pat: wow, you mean to tell me that you place your entire financial future and other people's lives on the strength of a single Grade 8 bolt???
yeah, it's big, but a trailer hub works much better and they're fairly cheap...
:pat: wow, you mean to tell me that you place your entire financial future and other people's lives on the strength of a single Grade 8 bolt???
yeah, it's big, but a trailer hub works much better and they're fairly cheap...
07-13-2005, 04:06 PM
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With all due respect, common sense would tell me to brace it in some way or another. For off-roading, I wouldnt trust that design even it was 3" tubing...
It looks good but its better to be safe (and strong) than sorry.
It looks good but its better to be safe (and strong) than sorry.
07-13-2005, 10:56 PM
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Now you guys got me thinking about my rear tire carrier design.
It is a double shear design that is a very tight fit. The center cylinder of solid steel doesn't even move once it is in between the top and bottom plates. This is a basic drawing of the design, but the actual top and bottom plates are boxed in from the sides as well, it's not just 2 plates of steel.
<-----You can also see the basic minimalist design of the bumper in my avatar pic on the left, without tire on it.<-----
Here is the best closeup of the hinge that I have-
Once it is bolted tight, I consider it to be one piece the same diameter as the steel cylinder, since the fit is so tight and once bolted any twisting forces are spread across the entire cylinder instead of just the bolt.
Now I don't always keep the spare tire or the carrier on the back, I usually just put it on right before a trail run. So it only sees freeway and offroad use occasionally. I've had it for almost a year and at one time it did get alot of freeway miles, but never seemed to move around too much.
So what do you think, strong enough?
It is a double shear design that is a very tight fit. The center cylinder of solid steel doesn't even move once it is in between the top and bottom plates. This is a basic drawing of the design, but the actual top and bottom plates are boxed in from the sides as well, it's not just 2 plates of steel.
<-----You can also see the basic minimalist design of the bumper in my avatar pic on the left, without tire on it.<-----
Here is the best closeup of the hinge that I have-
Once it is bolted tight, I consider it to be one piece the same diameter as the steel cylinder, since the fit is so tight and once bolted any twisting forces are spread across the entire cylinder instead of just the bolt.
Now I don't always keep the spare tire or the carrier on the back, I usually just put it on right before a trail run. So it only sees freeway and offroad use occasionally. I've had it for almost a year and at one time it did get alot of freeway miles, but never seemed to move around too much.
So what do you think, strong enough?
Last edited by RobT2k; 07-13-2005 at 11:19 PM.
07-14-2005, 06:43 AM
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when i say 3/4" bolt, i mean 3/4" bolt. not 3/4" head, thats not how bolts are measured.
the only advantage to the trailer hub is the bearing assembly makes it operate smoothly and without slop.
my 3/4" grade 8 bolt has a safe working load of 2,260lbs and a break strength of 50,100lbs. ITS NOT GOING ANYWHERE!
the only advantage to the trailer hub is the bearing assembly makes it operate smoothly and without slop.
my 3/4" grade 8 bolt has a safe working load of 2,260lbs and a break strength of 50,100lbs. ITS NOT GOING ANYWHERE!
07-14-2005, 07:38 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by RobT2k
Now you guys got me thinking about my rear tire carrier design.
It is a double shear design that is a very tight fit. The center cylinder of solid steel doesn't even move once it is in between the top and bottom plates. This is a basic drawing of the design, but the actual top and bottom plates are boxed in from the sides as well, it's not just 2 plates of steel.
<-----You can also see the basic minimalist design of the bumper in my avatar pic on the left, without tire on it.<-----
Here is the best closeup of the hinge that I have-
Once it is bolted tight, I consider it to be one piece the same diameter as the steel cylinder, since the fit is so tight and once bolted any twisting forces are spread across the entire cylinder instead of just the bolt.
Now I don't always keep the spare tire or the carrier on the back, I usually just put it on right before a trail run. So it only sees freeway and offroad use occasionally. I've had it for almost a year and at one time it did get alot of freeway miles, but never seemed to move around too much.
So what do you think, strong enough?
It is a double shear design that is a very tight fit. The center cylinder of solid steel doesn't even move once it is in between the top and bottom plates. This is a basic drawing of the design, but the actual top and bottom plates are boxed in from the sides as well, it's not just 2 plates of steel.
<-----You can also see the basic minimalist design of the bumper in my avatar pic on the left, without tire on it.<-----
Here is the best closeup of the hinge that I have-
Once it is bolted tight, I consider it to be one piece the same diameter as the steel cylinder, since the fit is so tight and once bolted any twisting forces are spread across the entire cylinder instead of just the bolt.
Now I don't always keep the spare tire or the carrier on the back, I usually just put it on right before a trail run. So it only sees freeway and offroad use occasionally. I've had it for almost a year and at one time it did get alot of freeway miles, but never seemed to move around too much.
So what do you think, strong enough?
I seem to recall a CB transmission on the way back to camp at Superstition. I guess you forgot to latch it and we were whackin the whoops pretty hard. I'm getting a rear swingout built right now and I want ti to be able to handle quick rough rides. The design should be somewhat similar to yours. Except instead of two angular bars holding the tire, I will have one tube bent into the sillohette of Bon Jovi.
