Solid Axle Swap Has Begun!!!!!
12-19-2005, 08:34 AM
#64
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Nice truck! Very clean job. That's what my truck wants to be like when it grows up! 
On a side note, my truck was black with the same striping until I repainted it. That brings back memories.
On a side note, my truck was black with the same striping until I repainted it. That brings back memories.
12-19-2005, 09:08 AM
#65
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i second the idea of bracing your shock mounts. Because the stick up so high they are really likley to break. Have you decided what your going to do in the rear as far as springs go if you remove the blocks?
12-19-2005, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Napoleon047
you need to remember, the axle swings in an arc. it moves back when it moves up and will clear the pitman arm. my setup looks very similar, and it clears just fine when compressed
Need no to remind me how things work on a rear shackle setup...I have the same setup on my 85.
12-19-2005, 04:41 PM
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Well when I decide to do a SAS, guess who I'm calling. Just kidding, but since you're near by I will probaly end up asking for some help. You did a real clean job, really good looking. Glad everything went well for ya.
12-19-2005, 05:12 PM
#70
Originally Posted by Thrillbilly
Well when I decide to do a SAS, guess who I'm calling. Just kidding, but since you're near by I will probaly end up asking for some help. You did a real clean job, really good looking. Glad everything went well for ya.
Again, looks real nice!
What a great Dad to help! I hope to help my boys SAS a rig of their own someday!
12-19-2005, 06:39 PM
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Haha...yeah my dad is pretty awesome. Thanks for all the compliments guys, I think it turned out pretty good! As for the tranny cooler...it hasn't really found a permanent home yet. Right now it's just jimmy-rigged up out of the way. But we're working on using some holes that are already in the frame and just modify the bracket. As soon as we figure it out, I'll post pics. The springs up front are 4". The brake setup is just the rotors that came in the kit (Land-Cruiser style vented), and extended brake lines. The stock IFS calipers mount up perfectly to the solid axle, with a little sawzall work on the disc guard. We may have to order the steel brake lines that run from the caliper. Marlin has these. The stock IFS ones have too much length and don't really fit in the brackets like they should. As for the rear, what we really want to do is install the rear lift kit from Marlin. The springs are longer, so the brackets must be cut and moved. That project may be a while, but that's what we have planned.
Now I have a question. We just got the driveshaft back today, and the guy did an AWESOME job on it. However, there is a pretty bad vibration at any speed above 30. I'm thinking its because the top CV joint at the transfer case was left in there. I know someone posted a link to an article that tells how to clearance it. Is this what you guys would suggest doing? Right now it turns fine, but if the truck is jacked all the way up to full droop, there is binding. But the splines are plenty long enough to where it would never actually come apart. So would doing what that article says and just cut a little on the top CV do the trick? Thanks...almost time to go WHEELIN!!! (Too bad Uwharrie just closed.)
Now I have a question. We just got the driveshaft back today, and the guy did an AWESOME job on it. However, there is a pretty bad vibration at any speed above 30. I'm thinking its because the top CV joint at the transfer case was left in there. I know someone posted a link to an article that tells how to clearance it. Is this what you guys would suggest doing? Right now it turns fine, but if the truck is jacked all the way up to full droop, there is binding. But the splines are plenty long enough to where it would never actually come apart. So would doing what that article says and just cut a little on the top CV do the trick? Thanks...almost time to go WHEELIN!!! (Too bad Uwharrie just closed.)
Last edited by 93ToyKid; 12-19-2005 at 07:01 PM.
12-19-2005, 06:55 PM
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On a side note...to those of you who are considering doing this swap, I say go for it. It sounds intimidating, with cutting on the frame and all, but its really not that bad. You just have to take your time and do it right, because you don't want to fubar your frame! The cutting and grinding are the toughest parts, but that's just because they're really time-consuming. Everything else is pretty straightforward. Having all the parts in one nice kit was a HUGE plus. All the parts in Marlin's kit are extremely top-notch. Plus...working on the solid axle is MUCH easier than working on the IFS. Once you get all the welding and cutting done, everything else pretty much just bolts on. Though we did it from start to finish in just over a week, that was working pretty diligently every day. This was the first thing like this we've done, so we took our time and did it right. If you know how to weld, and you have all the parts there ready, it could probably be done in a weekend. Again...the kit was a big plus. The templates made it very easy to get everything line up right, and the project was alot of fun!
12-19-2005, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 93ToyKid
Hah
Now I have a question. We just got the driveshaft back today, and the guy did an AWESOME job on it. However, there is a pretty bad vibration at any speed above 30. I'm thinking its because the top CV joint at the transfer case was left in there. I know someone posted a link to an article that tells how to clearance it. Is this what you guys would suggest doing? Right now it turns fine, but if the truck is jacked all the way up to full droop, there is binding. But the splines are plenty long enough to where it would never actually come apart. So would doing what that article says and just cut a little on the top CV do the trick? Thanks...almost time to go WHEELIN!!! (Too bad Uwharrie just closed.)
Now I have a question. We just got the driveshaft back today, and the guy did an AWESOME job on it. However, there is a pretty bad vibration at any speed above 30. I'm thinking its because the top CV joint at the transfer case was left in there. I know someone posted a link to an article that tells how to clearance it. Is this what you guys would suggest doing? Right now it turns fine, but if the truck is jacked all the way up to full droop, there is binding. But the splines are plenty long enough to where it would never actually come apart. So would doing what that article says and just cut a little on the top CV do the trick? Thanks...almost time to go WHEELIN!!! (Too bad Uwharrie just closed.)
I got my IFS driveshaft clearenced and splined by high angle driveline. Jess spent a lot of time on the phone with me, with a single transfer case and the auto he said I had 2 options: A non cv drivshaft that won't bind but will vibrate or a cv driveshaft that won't vibrate but will require a limiting strap to keep it from overextending and binding. I chose the CV because I want to be able to run at freeway speed in 4wd. Beacuase I have a relativly low lift and a high pinion 3rd I don't have any binding issues. You don't read about that on marlin or allpros website. If you have a second case the driveshaft becomes longer, the angle smaller and the problem goes away. Not sure if that helps, I can take a picture of mine if you would like.
Phalanx, did you need to do anything with the hoses to get your cooler there ? Thanks for the pic.
Last edited by RobG; 12-19-2005 at 09:39 PM.
12-24-2005, 10:07 AM
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So we went over to our pasture today to see how she flexes.
You can't tell from the pics, but that ditch we are in is very deep. Nothing really challenging, but we got some awesome flex shots, and got to see what she would do
Well...I'll just let the pictures speak for themselves!
The coolest part is how when the suspension is flexed to the max...the body remains level!!
MUCH more stable than the IFS 
These two shots are when the front suspension was flexed to the max.
Here you can see it at full droop:
And though you can't see it...this side is touching the bumpstop:
Our driveshaft seems to be working okay, as it never bound up during all of this.
You can't tell from the pics, but that ditch we are in is very deep. Nothing really challenging, but we got some awesome flex shots, and got to see what she would do
Well...I'll just let the pictures speak for themselves!
The coolest part is how when the suspension is flexed to the max...the body remains level!!
MUCH more stable than the IFS These two shots are when the front suspension was flexed to the max.
Here you can see it at full droop:
And though you can't see it...this side is touching the bumpstop:
Our driveshaft seems to be working okay, as it never bound up during all of this.
Last edited by 93ToyKid; 12-24-2005 at 10:11 AM.
12-24-2005, 11:30 AM
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looks great...real tight in there with tie-rod and the spring at full compression but it fits none the less. An awesome job to say the least...when do you plan on starting the rear?
12-24-2005, 11:43 AM
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Yeah the tie rod is awful close, but doesn't touch even under full compression, so its going to work fine. We're probably going to add braces to the shock towers as some others have suggested. Thanks for the compliments! We're sort of looking at doing the rear either while I'm off for spring break, or next summer. That project could easily be done in a weekend, so we may do it earlier, but I don't know.
12-29-2005, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 93ToyKid
Now I have a question. We just got the driveshaft back today, and the guy did an AWESOME job on it. However, there is a pretty bad vibration at any speed above 30. I'm thinking its because the top CV joint at the transfer case was left in there. I know someone posted a link to an article that tells how to clearance it. Is this what you guys would suggest doing? Right now it turns fine, but if the truck is jacked all the way up to full droop, there is binding. But the splines are plenty long enough to where it would never actually come apart. So would doing what that article says and just cut a little on the top CV do the trick? Thanks...almost time to go WHEELIN!!! (Too bad Uwharrie just closed.)
BTW please tell me youve got body lift on that thing, bc my goal is to stay as low as possible, and you are freaking tall.
