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New Ram Tube Injection Project

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Old 01-08-2006, 06:05 AM
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JD
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New Ram Tube Injection Project

G'Day Guys

Been awhile since I last posted and I have been busy on a number of projects and finally got to finishing the following projects:

Front and rear electric sway bar disconnects
Rear discs
Fitted a Detroit Electrac LSD/Locker

and a few addtional accessories such as:

Custom cargo barrier
AEM air/fuel ratio guage plus a few others.

Info and pics are on My Page

But this post relates to my current engine project.

I previously made two custom upper manifolds, one to suit the stock lower and another when I swapped to a GT40 lower but I am now working on fitting an 8 ram tube intake system.

I'm using a spare block etc to fabricate it so once its done I can do the swapover so this time the 4Runner's not parked up etc. This pic shows the basic parts I'm using but it will be set up for 4WD use etc etc.

I hope to have it done by early Feb, LOL

JD

Old 01-09-2006, 02:46 PM
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Crazy...


Get it done!
Old 01-13-2006, 07:55 AM
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Thats What I Like To See!
Cant What Too See It
Old 02-03-2006, 06:35 AM
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Had a few issues to resolve but I'm now on the home run

Here's some More Pics

JD
Old 02-10-2006, 09:13 PM
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sweet!!!!! you are nuts
Old 02-11-2006, 03:42 AM
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Slowly making some progress.

Basically finished the top section and I'm now working on the throttle body cover and the bolt mounts
for the actual cover section etc.



I was going to mount it on an extended tube section as per the pic below but decided it would
look better mounted direct to the cover which means I had to cut the fuel rail etc but thats no big deal



Old 02-11-2006, 08:20 AM
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NUTS
Old 02-11-2006, 12:31 PM
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ok...so I hope this doesnt make anyone mad, but I have no idea what this does for engine performance...care to explain?
Old 02-14-2006, 06:06 AM
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In a nutshell its way more efficient than a normal type manifold as most factory and aftermarket manifolds usually have some unequal length runners due to space limitations etc.

The aircharge is also more directly at the port, ie no corners etc and each chamber will get the same gutfull of air, hence the engine will run a lot sweeter and more efficient thus make more power. Also stack lengths can be altered in length to assist in obtaining different outputs, ie low rpm power or high rpm power etc etc.

But as well as that it looks trick
Old 02-15-2006, 08:29 AM
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awesome...thanks. and good luck with the rest of it..
Old 02-15-2006, 09:30 AM
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What vehicle did you get those sway bard disco's off of? I have been looking at them for awhile, and I think they come from Nisson's?

Thanks
Old 02-19-2006, 04:37 AM
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Yep, European Nissan.

The rear is a basic bolt on with a new top bracket but using them on the front requires a lot of mods and changes etc, but they work great

An earlier Oz top of the range Nissan Patrol came with a cable pull rear swaybar release. It used a small handbrake type lever under the dash. Getting hard to find now and they are expensive but I have two in the shed.

JD
Old 02-26-2006, 04:41 AM
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Its been up to 43C in the workshop lately (gotta get a workshop A/C, ) but I've been making some progress although waiting on alloy welding etc has been a pain.

But its now basically done except for the TB and injector covers, which I am redoing as I wasn't happy with the original outcome. During the week I will test fit the Mallory to my engine using an altered firing order pattern to ensure there will be no problems etc and mark where it will be positioned. I can then install it correctly for initial startup when I do the complete swapover.

I've also made 20mm plastic rocker cover spacers so I can fit the rocker girdles. The spacers lift the rocker covers up and to some extent they hide the 8 throttle bodies but I want to run the girdles so its hard luck, but the cover lift makes the engine look a lot wider,

I plan to make a start next weekend on the swapover as rather than take a guess I would rather position the new lower manifold section in place in order to be able to work out exactly where the various water lines need to be positioned. Rather than use the former Ford set where the heater water comes from the thermostat area I have tapped into the rear of the heads. I have also incorporated my previous set up where separate lines join into the heater return tube from the rear of each head and all water returns to the waterpump. I currently also use this set up to ensure that there were no hot spots or air locks in the rear of the heads etc.

I also have to make a new throttle cable support bracket as my current set up cannot be reused. I have installed an adjustable Malpassi fuel pressure regulator at the rear of the cover and its all ready to plumb in the fuel lines etc.

Once I've done all the water lines etc etc I then have to do the crap bit and prepare all the bits and paint them and then it can all be finally installed

This pic shows the cover bolt downs now welded in place and they are positioned to contact the edging
bead so the cover can be torqued down. I will file a gap of about 1mm off the cover bottom edging as I plan to use a
strip of 6mm wide by 3mm thick sticky back rubber around the sealing edge so when the covers
torqued down it will compress 2mm etc.



I've now made the 30mm plastic spacers under the main plate and match ported the complete setup.
I am hoping the actual head ports will be a good match to the new lower manifold as I don't intend
to remove the heads at this point in time.



I plan to install the trumpets last as they will be locked in with a special locktite goo.



This shows the underside and you can also see the PCV valve is now located in the former
throttle linkage locating pole.



Hard to see but the 6 cap screw bolts are sunk into the cover. I am redoing the top section of the
TB cover and the injector covers.



Old 02-26-2006, 10:39 AM
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Nice...
Old 03-01-2006, 10:44 PM
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very nice...
to fabricators
Old 03-02-2006, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by agusgus3
to fabricators
Thanks, that would be me

I've decided to start the swapover this coming weekend as I need it up and running before Easter so I should have some preliminary fitting pics to post Monday.

JD
Old 03-02-2006, 06:13 AM
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ELECTRIC SWAY BAR DISCONNECT

Now thats Cool. If I had sway bars still Id look into that.
Old 03-28-2006, 05:42 AM
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I've been a bit slack on updates but I see no point in progressively posting every minor detail, .

Other than painting the top cover its all done and I'm now finishing the final install.

This shows the former quad throttle linkage pole now machined for the PCV system.




This is an extension welded under the manifold in the separate manifold vacuum chamber for a PCV fitting.




The vacuum chamber sealed off. The main outlet is in the top cover plate between the front 4 stacks.




This is my own trick system which I also used on my old manifold that is designed to eliminate oil being sucked into the engine via the PCV. It's a common problem with the stock 5.0 PCV design.




The top plate and fuel rails are polished and the manifold painted and ready for install.







The injector covers have been welded on although I've since had the front corner of the right cover redone so its indented the same as the left. So I can remove the cover as a total package I located the throttle position sensor an idle speed control plugs under the rear left injector cover and made it so it swivels up to allow these plugs to be easily disconnected.





A brief comparison of the old and the new.





Now bolted on and I'm currently doing the final assembly. The stainless water return tube was a real bitch to form bend. That stuff is strong,







The fuel lines, wiring etc are designed and fitted in such a way that I can easily remove either as a complete setup, if required. I fitted the fuel pressure reg at the rear of the main plate and although it fits fine its location has made access to the rear a tad crowded. Later I may take the opportunity to re locate it to free up this area.

Since this pic was taken I have altered the fuel pressure lines so they crossover and connect on the opposing side so as to avoid kinks forming. You can also see the rear head water outlets I use that feed back to the water pump so as to avoid any rear hots spots. The sensor plumbed into # 4 inlet is the air temp sensor.

The brake vacuum and 4wd selection vacuum line pick up from the separate vacuum chamber under the manifold. Vacuum sensing for the fuel pressure reg comes from a fitting via the main plate into the boxed plenum area.




I'll have to get some simple stack covers as if I now drop anything down a stack I'm in deep trouble, .

Tonight I refitted most of the front accessories etc.

Hopefully, time permitting I may get to firing it up this weekend and if all goes well I will then finish the top cover.

JD
Old 03-28-2006, 02:41 PM
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Old 07-13-2006, 08:48 PM
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so!!!!!!!! any progress


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