ravencr

Come on Steve, we'll see what happens when it does, but the toyota rear axle is stronger than a dana 30, ormine would have been broken a long time ago. As far as the front goes, if I'm not locked, I probably won't break much at all. But once I got locked up front, which honestly will be the same time I go with bigger tires, I might, but we'll see.

At any rate, I just want to tell everyone that doing a 3" body lift on our vehicles is a piece of cake. It's no harder to do than a 1", just a few more things you have to loosen and adjust, but nothing major at all. It went on today without a hitch at all. Stay tuned for the pics!

Chris

ravencr

It's hard to tell the difference, but it's definitely noticable in person:









Chris

ravencr

So, here's the quick and dirty on doing a 3" body lift versus a 1" that most of us have commonly done:

1) There's a wiring/vacuum tube harness on the driver's side fenderwell in the engine bay that needs to be moved down on fender. This was easily fixed with an existing hole and a little nut and bolt.

2) The wiring that connects to the positive terminal of the battery is very tight, so you have to remove the bolt connected to the top of the frame, remove the metal bracket, and then re-attach the bottom portion back to the frame. Once this is done, everything is perfect.

I was told that I should removed the brackets for the front brake lines, but this is totally not needed. You can literally leave everything else in attached, and slowly lift the body off the frame. The slower the better, because it gives the brake lines time to stretch without kinking.

I was also told that with a 3" body lift the transfer case lever may or may not need an extension, but on my 1997 it works perfectly without it.

Overall, that's all you have to do differently than a 1" body lift. If I were to do it all over again, or if I was on a limited budget, I'd do a 3" body first, before I did a suspension lift for sure. It's not any bit harder than a 1" BL like everyone says, and it's so much cheaper.

So, after our ride tomorrow, I'm going to install the motor mount spacers, which is where the fun begins.

Chris

RockComa

When you do lock the front call George Stuckey at CV Unlimited and get some super shafts. I know a guy who ran the prototype set. The say there as strong spline wise as a dana 30. Don't worry about the rear axle. I'm hammering mine with 38s They say the 8.4 is as strong as a big bearing Ford 9" or Dana 60. So far no bad news yet with mine and it's seen 4 years of abuse. Bent the axle shafts but that's about it

ravencr

I'll definitely check that out! Thanks for the information!

Chris

Flygtenstein

I think CV Unlimited is out this way.

I know Schaefer, Jeff and Hunt have blown away supposedly beefed aftermarket shafts. If you make a CV and shaft say 35% stronger, they are still not that strong.

ravencr

I think I'm just going to end up running a true 35" tire and see what happens. I'd really like to run a 36" tire, but the cost of constantly breaking parts doesn't sound all that fun to me.

Chris

P.S. I've found a gas tank that will fit in our vehicles. It's out of an Izuzu Rodeo. Plus, Joe is giving me his old one for free. This is a tremendous help in my quest for a flat underbelly and custom lower/longer links.

ravencr

Well, I've decided to order Front Range Off-roads crossmember/skid plate combo. The drivetrain lift is complete, and I've decided what tire I'm eventually going to run: Q78x16 TSL swampers. I think they'll provide the most height with the least amount of fitment problems, because their pretty narrow.

Chris

sschaefer3

1. The skid plate is only for a dual case setup.

2. They only have a skid for the older trucks. The Tacoma one is still under development and that is for an MC09.



Your on it!

ravencr

You've definitely done your research, but in this case, Brian and I are a tad ahead of the game. It will work for mine, because it's a totally different setup. Here's a picture of the one he's working on for the Tacoma's and 4runners:



So, my plan is still legit. Sorry Steve,

Chris

justinh

now thats a nice crossmember, is it still weld in so you can lift it if you want?

sschaefer3

Just for the record, I think your "Big" plan, the cheaper plan is absurd.

I am willing to bet the entire front drive train self destructs. Prove me wrong.

ravencr

Yep! The crossmember and skid plate are both welded in, so the fact that I've got a 3" drivetrain lift doesn't matter. The only possibly issues with it will be the exhaust tubing and possibly the rear brake and fuel lines, but they can easily be relocated.

Chris

ravencr

Steve, you're definitely an amusing guy to say the least. If you can back your claim up with 3 definitive things that will cause my front end to fall apart, I'm all ears because I do respect your opinion. But, if not, spare me the reading. I don't go to your threads and knock your ideas or strategies do I? If you have valid points to make, then please make them, because I'm all ears. Is that fair enough?

Chris

sschaefer3

You go to my threads and seriously irritate me. I just want to state and I do not believe this will work. I do not want to dance with you on the internet. I'm done.

I also will not sell you my front diff, even if you have the money. I don't want it part of this project.

YOU e-mailed me first. Over and out, signing out. Don't e-mail me if you don't want me around.

Cebby

914runner

Whew, its getting kinda hot in here!

justinh

other than him not having manual hubs what is so different from your set up when you were/are running ifs with 35's? i am just trying to understand what it is that you don't think is going to work....it shouldn't be clearance, he should have plenty of that, he has already made the motor mount lift work once, he is now just moving it higher... is it something with the t-case?

redplastic2p3t

best of luck with the 35's and the ifs, i beleive steve is right, you go to lock the front with 35's its gonna have some probs, even though my junk is straight axle on 35's ive not locked it yet for the reason i dont want to bust anything apart till i replace the birfs and inner axles, if i were you chris, id wait till you straight axle your truck to step up to 35's, btw your truck is gonna come out nice, hope to see you on slick rock this time!

justinh

we'll see how mine hold up at the next tellico run. by the way, do you still have that 1st gen rollbar for me? i know it has been awhile but i still want it!