Trail Gear slider install
11-23-2006, 05:31 AM
#1
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Trail Gear slider install
The Trail Gear sliders come with legs but they are not welded on. That's one reason I liked them, it allows for easier customization as far as angles, height and picking the mounting spots along the frame.
I'm just trying to decide the angle, distance, and height from the frame, what do you guys think of this?
I'm just trying to decide the angle, distance, and height from the frame, what do you guys think of this?
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-23-2008 at 09:05 AM.
11-23-2006, 05:40 AM
#2
I used a build your own slider kit like Trail Gear's but wanted DOM so I got some from 4xinnovations since TG doesn't offer DOM.
I used a 1/2" thick piece of board under the outside edge of the slider (laying on the flat concrete) and then checked it with my angle finder with the legs tacked on...right at 15 degrees of slant. They make a nice step and offer great protection. I've seen flat and 30 degrees and both just don't look/work right IMO.
I then used the same 1/2" piece of wood to gap the slider from the pinch weld and tacked them in place and checked measurements...then welded them out once everything looked good.
Don't forget to used scab plates on the frame.
I used a 1/2" thick piece of board under the outside edge of the slider (laying on the flat concrete) and then checked it with my angle finder with the legs tacked on...right at 15 degrees of slant. They make a nice step and offer great protection. I've seen flat and 30 degrees and both just don't look/work right IMO.
I then used the same 1/2" piece of wood to gap the slider from the pinch weld and tacked them in place and checked measurements...then welded them out once everything looked good.
Don't forget to used scab plates on the frame.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 11-23-2006 at 05:43 AM.
11-23-2006, 05:14 PM
#4
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I have used mine way more on trees than rocks.... And this has been very very usefull, and the allpro kickout is a life saver... but makes the back of a 4runner impossible to get into, and the front is hard enough...
Trying to decide what to do on my taco since I want tree protection, but need to be able to reach the baby seat easily...
Overall they look really good, and angle all depends on how you plan to use them... I bet the 1"BL makes mounting nice...
11-24-2006, 05:18 AM
#5
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Thanks for the replies guys. So you think less angle and farther out?
Lamm, how far out do your tires stick out? Mine stick out a lot (maybe 4" more than factory)
I didn't measure the angle but I'm guessing it was more than 30 deg.
I did get the TG mounting plates too. well worth the extra $24 IMHO:
http://www.trail-gear.com/rocksliders.html
Lamm, how far out do your tires stick out? Mine stick out a lot (maybe 4" more than factory)
I didn't measure the angle but I'm guessing it was more than 30 deg.
I did get the TG mounting plates too. well worth the extra $24 IMHO:
http://www.trail-gear.com/rocksliders.html
Last edited by mt_goat; 11-24-2006 at 05:24 AM.
11-24-2006, 05:26 AM
#6
Well, if your sliders are not out far enough with your tires at least to keep things off the side of your doors if you are up against a tree...what is the point in having them? Drop a line down from the outermost edge of your sheet metal...or at least as wide as your tires is a starting point. 15 degrees. This way you got protection and a step with a good jack point...up close to the body and your Hi-Lift becomes useless.
11-26-2006, 11:20 PM
#7
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Thanks for the replies guys. So you think less angle and farther out?
Lamm, how far out do your tires stick out? Mine stick out a lot (maybe 4" more than factory)
I didn't measure the angle but I'm guessing it was more than 30 deg.
I did get the TG mounting plates too. well worth the extra $24 IMHO:
http://www.trail-gear.com/rocksliders.html
Lamm, how far out do your tires stick out? Mine stick out a lot (maybe 4" more than factory)
I didn't measure the angle but I'm guessing it was more than 30 deg.
I did get the TG mounting plates too. well worth the extra $24 IMHO:
http://www.trail-gear.com/rocksliders.html
Lamm
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11-27-2006, 09:20 AM
#9
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My suggestion is this, to locate them vertically on the frame, make the inner bar and legs as high as possible without hitting the body, you don't want to be getting hung up on them because they are low. (leave a small amount of room, those sliders will flex, you don't want them smashing the body)
Then to decide on an angle, keeping the bottom bar where you want it, rotate the outer hoop up far enough that they don't interfere with your door, but are far enough away from the body to keep trees off your panels. Weld them there. Use scab plates in a diamond shape w/ a gusset from the top of the legs to the plates. Weld all 4 sides. That is what I did and they have worked great for me, no complaints.
The newest pics look pretty good, although maybe a little low.
Then to decide on an angle, keeping the bottom bar where you want it, rotate the outer hoop up far enough that they don't interfere with your door, but are far enough away from the body to keep trees off your panels. Weld them there. Use scab plates in a diamond shape w/ a gusset from the top of the legs to the plates. Weld all 4 sides. That is what I did and they have worked great for me, no complaints.
The newest pics look pretty good, although maybe a little low.
11-28-2006, 10:04 AM
#12
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I've also heard that you should weld near the top of the plates last. Not first. If you weld there first then the slider will naturally rise up higher as you finish welding. The final outcome could be a slider mounted too close to the body. Just thought i'd throw that in there. 
11-28-2006, 10:07 AM
#13
I always put a 1/2" piece of wood between the slider legs and the pinch weld to keep the distance constant and tack weld everything on completely before final welding. Tack up. Check. Check again. Then weld it out cause once you do that...a lot of work to fix a fubar. 
11-28-2006, 10:58 AM
#16
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I'll be using a 220V Miller econoTIG. But I'm bolting the plates through the frame, so the sliders can be removed easier.
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-03-2008 at 08:26 AM.
12-15-2006, 02:47 PM
#17
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Well almost done with these, the paint is drying. Not sure this was the best way because they were a bit of a PITA, but here's what I did:
The holes were drilled in the frame and scab plates were bolted on:
The hardware pile on the left (12 self tapping bolts) was all that held my nerf bars on for 13 years, including emergency highlifting 3 times on the trail. The pile on the right is what will be holding the sliders on.
The legs were cut to lenght and held in place with magnets for tack welding:
The angle I settled on was 23 degrees, that seemed to be the best looking to me and got the outside edge up less than an inch from the bottom of the door:
They were taken off for the rest of the welding and putting on the gussets then reinstalled for a test fitting. This is where I found out the rest of the welding moved the legs around some and I had to move a few holes to get them to bolt back on:
The paint booth where they sit drying for a few days:
They were sandblasted before painting and then primed and coated with a textured paint then top coated with gloss black.
The holes were drilled in the frame and scab plates were bolted on:
The hardware pile on the left (12 self tapping bolts) was all that held my nerf bars on for 13 years, including emergency highlifting 3 times on the trail. The pile on the right is what will be holding the sliders on.
The legs were cut to lenght and held in place with magnets for tack welding:
The angle I settled on was 23 degrees, that seemed to be the best looking to me and got the outside edge up less than an inch from the bottom of the door:
They were taken off for the rest of the welding and putting on the gussets then reinstalled for a test fitting. This is where I found out the rest of the welding moved the legs around some and I had to move a few holes to get them to bolt back on:
The paint booth where they sit drying for a few days:
They were sandblasted before painting and then primed and coated with a textured paint then top coated with gloss black.
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-23-2008 at 09:17 AM.
12-15-2006, 03:14 PM
#18
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I've also heard that you should weld near the top of the plates last. Not first. If you weld there first then the slider will naturally rise up higher as you finish welding. The final outcome could be a slider mounted too close to the body. Just thought i'd throw that in there.
As for the slider install, I would have tried to get the inside rail under the pinch weld. Since you didn't, you still run a significant risk of the legs flexing and bending at least the pinchweld, if not the rocker. Add triangular gussets to the legs to make them as strong as possible. (EDIT: didn't see that you did use gussets, albeit a bit small)
Then the angle would determine the width. Depending on the 'wheeling you do you could make them narrower and more vertical for rocks, or wider and more horizontal for trees. (In any case, the outside of the slider should be farther out than a plumb bob dropped from the widest point of the body)
Last edited by tc; 12-15-2006 at 03:15 PM.
12-15-2006, 03:42 PM
#19
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:
Also highlifted both wheels off the ground with very little deflection, the pinch weld didn't touch. These have 4 legs each side so there will be less defection then if there were only 3 legs.
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-23-2008 at 09:19 AM.
12-15-2006, 07:53 PM
#20
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i just want to let you know that your truck is sexy.
I did my marlins where the bar that the legs attach to were behind the pinch weld. the worked awesome with 3 legs, i would just drop right on them and had no flex issues. when i build my runner ones, they will be square tube, with square legs and the gussets will be made out of the square tube as well kinda like
(slider)<>==== /](frame).
I did my marlins where the bar that the legs attach to were behind the pinch weld. the worked awesome with 3 legs, i would just drop right on them and had no flex issues. when i build my runner ones, they will be square tube, with square legs and the gussets will be made out of the square tube as well
kinda like(slider)<>==== /](frame).
