lunalobowolf

Need some help...I purchased a 1990 SR5 pickup to beat around since I didn't have the stones to wheel in my 2004 TRD 4dr pickup.

I bought a basket case, with over 230,000 on odometer. I did a compression test and all six cylinders are between 145 and 152 lbs all the way around.

So I started the process of fixing it up to make the trip from my home town in Deming, NM (in the bootheel area) to Silverton, Durango, Telluride in Colorado.

I had the radiator rodded out, new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, new brakes front and back, new air filter, fuel filter, battery, cables, two new u-joints, new 31 X 10.5 BFG mud ta's, new radiator hoses, belts, changed oil in diffs, tranny, transfer and engine to Amsoil synthetic.

Had to replace both front stub axles and CV joints and then went and got it alligned.....nice to have the steering wheel strainght when going down the road.

BUT! No matter what I have done I can't get this thing to idle at less than 1800 RPM's. I have checked every vacuum line I can find, checked for cracks in the air intake tubes, retorqued the intake manifold...

Then from reading some posts on this site about two months ago I disconnected the EGR system....removed everything....took the tubes off the exhaust manifold....and welded up the plates and installed them back as block off plates. The EGR system is completely gone! NO HELP!

Had a shop do a 2.5 inch exhaust from the manifold flange back to the tail pipe with a flowmaster muffler....leaving the cat off....and then replaced the O2 sensor.....Still NO HELP!

What the heck do I do now!? I have a OBD1 & 2 tester but I can't read the trouble codes from the diagnostic port....went to every shop in town (8) with reputeable mechanics and no one has a plug that can plug into the diagnostic port on the passenger side fender well and read the codes.....

I am thinking that maybe a sensor or code has the computer running at fast idle......It runs descent....not like my 2004 3.4 V-6 with TRD supercharger....but ok....on power.......gets 16mpg on the highway except when pulling a jetski...then it gets 12mpg.

ANY Help on this idle situation would be great!

Its a 150 mile trip to the closest Toyota dealer and at $80.00 per shop hour I would rather do it myself.

Nick

tc

Um - have you adjusted the idle speed screw on the side of the throttle body or did you just jump to all these really complex "fixes"?

lunalobowolf

OOhhh yeah...forgot to mention...the idle speed screw on the side of the throttle body is completely closed......doesn't make any change in idle at all....which led me to instantly think of a vacuum leak......can't find it though.

881stGenRunner

check the TPS and see if it is off

tombothetominator

Another silly idea: disconnect the negative battery for a while, and then reconnect it.

tc

Is the throttle cable getting hung up, and not releasing all the way? Have you tried turning the throttle linkage CCW?

x2 for the TPS after checking that
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

lunalobowolf

Cable is not binding.....the TPS is connected......the battery was changed and new cables made...so the computer should have reset......

slosurfer

all you need is a paper clip to pull the codes!
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf

I agree, you are jumping to some pretty complex "fixes" considering you haven't pulled a code yet.

MudHippy

If your timing is off it will idle high, I'm not sure about 1800 rpm high, but it's worth checkin' if you haven't already. Meaning, check for codes, after(with check connectors still shorted) loosen the distibutor, take note of where it's set, then twist it and see if the idle changes.

On my 3vze there's an adjustment screw that limits how far the throttle plate closes when you release the accelerator fully. If somebody fiddled with this screw (instead of the idle adjustment screw) trying to change the idle then it could be adjusted too far open. That would raise the idle, and render the idle adjustment screw less effective.

lunalobowolf

I haved used the paperclip trick and counted the flashes and such but can't find out what the codes mean....such as (from my memory, a month ago) I think it was code 71 and 74? Where can I go to find what sensor or reading the number means?

P.S. I will print your response on the screws and check that out tonight!

tc

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

lunalobowolf

Pulled the codes tonight and they are: For the 3VZ-E #12 is open short in NE, G circuit, distributor, open or short in STA circuit or ECM.......next code was #24 which is open or short in intake air temp circuit, intake air temp sensor, or ECM.....and last code was #51 which is A/C switch circuit, throttle position sensor IDL circuit, or park/neutral position circuit, accelerator pedal, cable, or ECM.

WHEW! anyway......not that, that helps much....I know or understand about half of that....but let me respond to some or your guys suggestions......

I tried to check timing but at 1500 to 1800 RPM's that is mute..... the idle screw is closed....but one of you mentioned the stop screw or such... I found that it looked fiddled with.....I could see a shiny scratch where at one time it was turned....so guess what I fiddled some more with it....and low and behold the idle is now 800 with the engine warmed up....the timing is about 10 to 12 degrees kinda floats between the two...I am at about 4800 ft....so I thought that was about right.....

A test drive found that it idled ok but seemed down now on power? Is this in my head....did I touch and mess with Pandora's screw, lol, anyway guys....please help...

Should I now go to the Dealership and have my mess up fixed......what about the codes....they didn't go away with the battery disconnected......

Luna lobo wolf

slosurfer

To clear your codes, the easiest way is to pull your EFI 15A fuse under the hood for 30 seconds. That way you don't have to reset everything, plus it is way easier than pulling the neg. cable off the battery. Once again,
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf