All-Pro Upper Control Arms
09-30-2004, 03:29 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
But the photo doesn't show full droop in the front, whereas this one does;
09-30-2004, 07:34 AM
#42
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My Total Chaos upper control arms came in yesterday 
, along with Donahoe coil overs, Deaver rear 7 leaf springs, and new Bilsteins.
Anyone wanna come over and give me a hand???
, along with Donahoe coil overs, Deaver rear 7 leaf springs, and new Bilsteins.Anyone wanna come over and give me a hand???
09-30-2004, 07:36 AM
#43
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Originally Posted by 01Mossy Oak edition
My Total Chaos upper control arms came in yesterday , along with Donahoe coil overs, Deaver rear 7 leaf springs, and new Bilsteins.
, along with Donahoe coil overs, Deaver rear 7 leaf springs, and new Bilsteins.dang. nice purcha$e.
09-30-2004, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by calrockx
dang. nice purcha$e.
My truck is stock and I have putting off the investment for awhile.
Do you like your coil over n upper arm combo ?
Like you I will be running 285s Cal.
I am thinking about getting a r.b. lift also but have not made up my mind yet.
I would like some sliders like yours plus bumper and it sure sounds like your rig is seriously tricked out dude.
Last edited by 01Mossy Oak edition; 09-30-2004 at 07:47 AM.
09-30-2004, 07:47 AM
#45
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Originally Posted by 01Mossy Oak edition
My Total Chaos upper control arms came in yesterday , along with Donahoe coil overs, Deaver rear 7 leaf springs, and new Bilsteins.
Anyone wanna come over and give me a hand???
, along with Donahoe coil overs, Deaver rear 7 leaf springs, and new Bilsteins.Anyone wanna come over and give me a hand???
I got off topic.
09-30-2004, 06:47 PM
#48
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Peter Parks of TTORA has the all-pro arms...you can ask him what he thinks about them...he's also done an extensive write-up on the install...you can look it up at www.parksoffroad.com
Good write-up.
10-01-2004, 12:44 PM
#50
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After looking at all the manufacturers, I'm going to go with the Camburg UCA's and buy them from Wheeler's Off-Road. They're selling them for $439. 
I'm not buying them today, but I most likely will get them before the end of the year.
Thanks again to all for their info!
G
I'm not buying them today, but I most likely will get them before the end of the year.
Thanks again to all for their info!
G
10-04-2004, 08:22 PM
#51
All Pro has not really sold that many of there new UCA kits and they don't come powder coated and TC are the same as Camburgs and Inland Trucks but with 3 coats of clearcoat that make them shinny. There has been problems of TC arms being to short and rubbing the shock tower and punching holes in the inner fender well on full up travel. I think the Inland Trucks Ball joint arm keeps everything close to factory specs with a little more travel. But if you want uniballs you might want to go with Camburgs and save the money.
Last edited by Scottz; 10-04-2004 at 09:06 PM.
10-04-2004, 08:47 PM
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I've seen camburg upper arms punch holes thru the inner fender well also.....the TC upper arms use a higher quality uniball....also I believe they fixed their problems with the arms being too short....
One word of advice....snag some lube for the bushings of the upper arms, whichever brand you end up getting...the little bits that camburg gives ya is nowhere near enough....don't be shy with the stuff either...put globs of it everywhere....otherwise your truck will squeak like crazy
One word of advice....snag some lube for the bushings of the upper arms, whichever brand you end up getting...the little bits that camburg gives ya is nowhere near enough....don't be shy with the stuff either...put globs of it everywhere....otherwise your truck will squeak like crazy
Last edited by snwbdr; 10-04-2004 at 08:48 PM.
10-04-2004, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by snwbdr
One word of advice....snag some lube for the bushings of the upper arms, whichever brand you end up getting...the little bits that camburg gives ya is nowhere near enough....don't be shy with the stuff either...put globs of it everywhere....otherwise your truck will squeak like crazy
10-04-2004, 09:03 PM
#54
The uniball used by TC is the same as Camburg, Inland Trucks and All Pro, supplied by Kar Tek (Part #JMX16T) The other guys just leave the word "race" out of there ad. And yes pack in the GREASE.
10-04-2004, 09:54 PM
#56
My experience with uniballs vs ball joint is the stock ball joint on 96 newer Taco/4Runner has more degree of angle than a uniball with a 3/4 bolt and hi-mis spacers that's why Inland Trucks ball joint kit get a little more travel (1") then the uniball kits. But nothing is stronger then a uniball. Another thing I notice is uniball kits move the upper a-arm pivot point 2" above the stock pivot point changing the stock geometry (just like adding a 2" ball joint spacer) and doing so would make the camber more positive. So to try to fix this problem with the uniball design TC shorten the upper a-arm about 1" from the stock a-arm and this is what caused TC a-arm to rub the shock mount.
10-05-2004, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottz
My experience with uniballs vs ball joint is the stock ball joint on 96 newer Taco/4Runner has more degree of angle than a uniball with a 3/4 bolt and hi-mis spacers that's why Inland Trucks ball joint kit get a little more travel (1") then the uniball kits. But nothing is stronger then a uniball. Another thing I notice is uniball kits move the upper a-arm pivot point 2" above the stock pivot point changing the stock geometry (just like adding a 2" ball joint spacer) and doing so would make the camber more positive. So to try to fix this problem with the uniball design TC shorten the upper a-arm about 1" from the stock a-arm and this is what caused TC a-arm to rub the shock mount.
My arms have never squeeked but I did lube them up very well, 2 years ago !!!
10-05-2004, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottz
My experience with uniballs vs ball joint is the stock ball joint on 96 newer Taco/4Runner has more degree of angle than a uniball with a 3/4 bolt and hi-mis spacers that's why Inland Trucks ball joint kit get a little more travel (1") then the uniball kits. But nothing is stronger then a uniball. Another thing I notice is uniball kits move the upper a-arm pivot point 2" above the stock pivot point changing the stock geometry (just like adding a 2" ball joint spacer) and doing so would make the camber more positive. So to try to fix this problem with the uniball design TC shorten the upper a-arm about 1" from the stock a-arm and this is what caused TC a-arm to rub the shock mount.
10-11-2004, 07:59 AM
#59
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Yeah, those are good points you guys made. I didn't think about the pivot point being changed. And I too, like the idea of more travel. I guess I have to re-think (again) which arms I'm going with.
Thanks again for all the info!
G
Thanks again for all the info!
G
10-28-2004, 10:50 AM
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FYI:
Camburg has a unique press in slug that also doubles as the lower high-misalignment spacer. This combined with their 5/8" F-911 bolt allow for stock geometry and full angularity without a strength compromise. Both TC and Camburg arms have zerk fittings now so you can lube them on the vehicle. Like Steve though I haven't had squeeking even after two years.
Steve, your ball-joints aren't limiting your travel anyway, your frankenshocks are. That's not a diss though, your setup works very well for your needs and the price is right.
The main thing I like about uni-balls is the simplicity of assembly/disassembly especially when removing and installing CV's as is unfortunately somewhat common with our vehicles!
Camburg has a unique press in slug that also doubles as the lower high-misalignment spacer. This combined with their 5/8" F-911 bolt allow for stock geometry and full angularity without a strength compromise. Both TC and Camburg arms have zerk fittings now so you can lube them on the vehicle. Like Steve though I haven't had squeeking even after two years.
Steve, your ball-joints aren't limiting your travel anyway, your frankenshocks are. That's not a diss though, your setup works very well for your needs and the price is right.
The main thing I like about uni-balls is the simplicity of assembly/disassembly especially when removing and installing CV's as is unfortunately somewhat common with our vehicles!
