aquasport17

I havent touched the sensors - everything is original from the cat forward. Did you ground the simulator? I have tripple checked the connections and wire colors. I am going to re-crimp them next.

aquasport17

From the website ....

"The wire carrying the signal from the rear O2 sensor is located and cut. That wire is run through the device and then there is a single wire that needs to be connected to ground."

This makes one assume that you need to ground the unit.

In the instructions, the black wire from the simulator is spliced in with the blue/black which has a function of E2 - that a ground?

MTL_4runner

Yes, the sim does need to be grounded to work properly.

aquasport17

Then the ground must be the connection to the blue/black wire. There is no mention of ground in the documentation they gave me. From what I read in some forums, the E2 pin is the coolant sensor ground, and that is the wire they say to tap into with the black simulator wire. Also matches one of my CEL codes - hmm. Something is amiss here. I will check with gadget tomorrow.

aquasport17

Well, I have verified I have the correct instructions. Can anyone offer any more ideas? I'm ready to pull this thing out now. I seem to be the only one with these issues. I don't know what else to try.

MTL_4runner

There's only three wires on that thing, one for either side of the cut O2 sensor wire and the third one goes to ground. Is the black wire grounded yet? If not you need to ground it or the device won't work correctly. Not sure what else to tell you. It has nothing to do with any coolant temperature sensor grounds unless they are saying that wire is a good place to ground the URD simulator (in that case it would make sense). If you're still having trouble call Brian and get him on the phone to help you.

URD website
"The device is very small and there is a very simple three-wire hook up. The wire carrying the signal from the rear O2 sensor is located and cut. That wire is run through the device and then there is a single wire that needs to be connected to ground. It is about the size of a small box of matches and is best installed in the dash near the ECU."

The critical part is getting the correct rear O2 sensor wire and then finding a good ground.
These devices are quite common and run on a very basic circuit (look esp at the wiring diagram):
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oxy...sor_simulator/


From Gadget
"On the newer trucks the ECU looks for a signal from the rear O2 that somewhat matches the front sensor. So, when the front is reporting a rich mixture, the ECU wants to see a richening in the rear by a certain amount within a certain time period. The only way to signal match the front to the rear is to actually get a signal from the rear. What the sim does is adjust its range or center point and set the limits on the up and down swings and dampens or delays the signal changes.

Calling it a sim really is not a good name for it. A more proper name would be somethign like an electronic signal controller."

kevin444

if it needs to be grounded doesnt the ecu connector loom have a pure black wire typically the ground wire, did u solder your wires to make the connection? shoot me a pm maybe i can send u a picture of how mine is connected.

- kevin

MTL_4runner

You don't need to use the ECU ground wire and in fact it's probably preferable not to. Just solder all the connections (don't just twist tie them) and find a solid place to ground the simulator (sheet metal near the ECU or the metal portion of the dash should give you a solid ground).

aquasport17

The PDF instructions say nothing about a ground. They say to "tap" the black wire into the E2 pin which is the blue/black wire. I understand how it works, but I hooked it up according to the instructions.

Kevin is yours hard grounded, or did you follow the instructions you gave me exactly? That is the question I need to know. Are people following the instructions or grounding them to a hard ground? Agian, there is nothing in the instructions saying to ground the black wire - it's contrary to that - saying to connect it to blue/black pin that has function E2. I'll call them today.

If nothing else, I will ground the black to hard ground and see if that does it.

aquasport17

From URD ....

"Both the codes you referenced are codes from a faulty heater circuit in the front Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (New type O2 sensor). It has nothing to do with the coolant temp sensor, or the rear O2 sensor or should be caused by the installation of the URD Sim.

The most likely cause is a bad AFR sensor heater eliment. We see lots of those sensors go bad and we ship several every day. "

aquasport17

Seems strange that these codes happened 5 minutes after I installed the device. What I am wondering is if this AFS wasn't the initial cause of the P0420 code all along? Hmm..... Maybe I will replace it and see what happens.

kevin444

lemme know how it goes.

RunnerUp

did you ever get this resolved? i am about to install my O2 sim so if something doesnt work, i would like to know what you did to fix it