Turbo 94 3.0
10-09-2005, 01:22 PM
#21
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Toysrme
People without:
A) Custom turbo charging experience
AND
B) Remote mounted turbocharger experience
Need to keep their opinions to themselves on what will & will not work.
A) Custom turbo charging experience
AND
B) Remote mounted turbocharger experience
Need to keep their opinions to themselves on what will & will not work.
10-09-2005, 01:50 PM
#23
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Toysrme
That was the nice way of saying some of yall don't have a clue of what you're talking about, so don't talk about it.
10-09-2005, 03:22 PM
#24
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Just remember, I didn't say it applied to you... You're being sarcastic, but you can amke up your own mind if it applies to you or not.
Injector size is 200cc.
Easyest way to go on a 3vz-e is to drop in some 315cc's out of a 7m-ge, or buy some low imp. Denso injectors from Mazda's (Be it a turbo probe/mx, or an rx-7 in the 300-390cc size) DSM/Honda 450cc injectors are low imp, so you'll have to use some resistor packs. That's also a boat-load of fuel.
Remember that the larger the injector is, the larger the changes have to be made tuning wise to get things to run well.
While you may not throw CEL's on OBD-I (As it doesn't really care *that* much) You can run out of spec without knowing fairly easily (Only found out by running Diagnostic mode II - if your ecu supports it)
Or you can install extra injectors & tune them off MAP. That's normally the easyest way out when it comes to tuning.
I've had 680's running acceptably one time using the open-loop trick I came up with & have been doing on a few Toyota's.
If you have any closed to open loop tuning holes (not really a problem in Toyota OBD-I if you're semi-slick). You can trigger open loop anytime you want by sending the VC 5v supply voltage from the ECU to feed the TPS & AFM, back across the VTA signal comming from the TPS. (Use either an RPM/TPS trigger, or a $3 boost sensor to do it off ebay).
Using a double pole, double throw DTDP relay, run the VTA signal from the TPS through the relay that normally isn't triggered. Run the VC supply voltage to the other side of the relay.
When the relay is triggered you go from what the TPS normally says, to it's maximum reading. The ECU goes into open-loop & you now have as much of a tuning window as you actually need!
(Like I said, not normally needed on OBD-I where the ECU isn't likely to tune changes out - but a good trick nonetheless. For all intensive purposes)
If you're not going to rebuild the transmission, and the engine, I would suggest going with a Walbro 190, and a set of 315-330cc injectors. I wouldn't pass 320bhp (Honestly, I'd be weary of less if you're not in perfect condition)
Water injection is your lean-out friend! If you're going for big power without rebuilding, use WI. (Just remember, no methenol, no isoproply alcohol, only ethyl alcohol if you're adding an alcohol).
You can make more power at stoich with a 20% water to mixture ratio (which is both water AND fuel) than you can at 12.5 straight fuel.
Injector size is 200cc.
Easyest way to go on a 3vz-e is to drop in some 315cc's out of a 7m-ge, or buy some low imp. Denso injectors from Mazda's (Be it a turbo probe/mx, or an rx-7 in the 300-390cc size) DSM/Honda 450cc injectors are low imp, so you'll have to use some resistor packs. That's also a boat-load of fuel.
Remember that the larger the injector is, the larger the changes have to be made tuning wise to get things to run well.
While you may not throw CEL's on OBD-I (As it doesn't really care *that* much) You can run out of spec without knowing fairly easily (Only found out by running Diagnostic mode II - if your ecu supports it)
Or you can install extra injectors & tune them off MAP. That's normally the easyest way out when it comes to tuning.
I've had 680's running acceptably one time using the open-loop trick I came up with & have been doing on a few Toyota's.
If you have any closed to open loop tuning holes (not really a problem in Toyota OBD-I if you're semi-slick). You can trigger open loop anytime you want by sending the VC 5v supply voltage from the ECU to feed the TPS & AFM, back across the VTA signal comming from the TPS. (Use either an RPM/TPS trigger, or a $3 boost sensor to do it off ebay).
Using a double pole, double throw DTDP relay, run the VTA signal from the TPS through the relay that normally isn't triggered. Run the VC supply voltage to the other side of the relay.
When the relay is triggered you go from what the TPS normally says, to it's maximum reading. The ECU goes into open-loop & you now have as much of a tuning window as you actually need!
(Like I said, not normally needed on OBD-I where the ECU isn't likely to tune changes out - but a good trick nonetheless. For all intensive purposes)
If you're not going to rebuild the transmission, and the engine, I would suggest going with a Walbro 190, and a set of 315-330cc injectors. I wouldn't pass 320bhp (Honestly, I'd be weary of less if you're not in perfect condition)
Water injection is your lean-out friend! If you're going for big power without rebuilding, use WI. (Just remember, no methenol, no isoproply alcohol, only ethyl alcohol if you're adding an alcohol).
You can make more power at stoich with a 20% water to mixture ratio (which is both water AND fuel) than you can at 12.5 straight fuel.
Last edited by Toysrme; 10-09-2005 at 03:23 PM.
10-09-2005, 07:44 PM
#25
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would be kinda cool to 90 a remote mounted turbo up into the truck bed and draw your air from there as well? If you could get by using a piggy back unit and a MAP sensor instead of a MAF you could really cut down on plumbing and have pretty much a turbo in the bed with a filter on it with a single tube running back to the engine compartment to feed the intake. Heck in the bed you could even use a small reservoir and an electric pump for lubrication on a recirculation basis with out ever tapping the engine oil supply? I fall into the "don't fully know what I'm talking about" category but those are ideas that come to mind when thinking about remote mount turbo.
Preach on brother Todd
Preach on brother Todd
10-09-2005, 08:41 PM
#26
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Eh, it's best to leave the AFM, there isn't *that* much to be gained by swapping things out, but it's easyest to tune extra injectors off a map sensor since they'll only turn on during positive pressure & they're easily scaled for it.
If you swap to a MAF/MAP you get to find something else to turn the fuel pumps on, as Denso AFM's have a little built in switch that triggers the pump when the AFM get's sucked open during cranking! (Not a big deal)
You also get to you tear the IAT out of the housing & get it working! (Pain in the arse!)
Intake into the bed that's funny! You might as well just do it CRX-of-Doom style! Yo nizzle!
If you swap to a MAF/MAP you get to find something else to turn the fuel pumps on, as Denso AFM's have a little built in switch that triggers the pump when the AFM get's sucked open during cranking! (Not a big deal)
You also get to you tear the IAT out of the housing & get it working! (Pain in the arse!)
Intake into the bed that's funny! You might as well just do it CRX-of-Doom style! Yo nizzle!
Last edited by Toysrme; 10-09-2005 at 08:42 PM.
SWEET! Thats what I call homemade
10-10-2005, 11:26 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by cootees
I see. I've been doing cutom turbo setups for a long... long time but I have no clue what I am talking about. You caught me dead in my tracks. So foolish of me. :pat:
Same story here. :pat:
10-10-2005, 09:30 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by SCdudeBro
Well the concept with the intercooler is that you actually don't need one. The turbo is mounted far enough away from the engine bay that there is more than enough air-flow so the turbo keeps itself cool.
A chip is just a step in the right direction towards fuel management. I know I'm going to have to upgrade the injectors. I dont plan on boosting a lot. I just want to see what kind of results I could produce with like 6 lbs of boost.
Armor for the turbo is something else I sat down to figure out. I came up with a simple heat shield type of cover. That way air flow is not resisted but it "should" in theory be protected from things like water and puddles. The last thing I want is for my turbo to be fully submerged in water and turn to junk. Basic puddles and things like that shouldn't hurt it. Trail damage and other obstacles like that is still an issue I need to completely figure out.
Having that much piping running under your rig can be disasterous. If done correctly and well that potential for disaster could possibly be avoided. But theres no saying a big boulder can't just come up and ruin my whole project.
I'm trying my best to work out all the kinks. I appreciate everyones ideas. It all helps. I just think it would be something different that has the possibility to have a really good outcome. heres a link to something very similiar to what I'm thinking of..
http://www.ststurbo.com/tacoma_install_pics
A chip is just a step in the right direction towards fuel management. I know I'm going to have to upgrade the injectors. I dont plan on boosting a lot. I just want to see what kind of results I could produce with like 6 lbs of boost.
Armor for the turbo is something else I sat down to figure out. I came up with a simple heat shield type of cover. That way air flow is not resisted but it "should" in theory be protected from things like water and puddles. The last thing I want is for my turbo to be fully submerged in water and turn to junk. Basic puddles and things like that shouldn't hurt it. Trail damage and other obstacles like that is still an issue I need to completely figure out.
Having that much piping running under your rig can be disasterous. If done correctly and well that potential for disaster could possibly be avoided. But theres no saying a big boulder can't just come up and ruin my whole project.
I'm trying my best to work out all the kinks. I appreciate everyones ideas. It all helps. I just think it would be something different that has the possibility to have a really good outcome. heres a link to something very similiar to what I'm thinking of..
http://www.ststurbo.com/tacoma_install_pics
The injectors in theory at least can support up to 240hp. I wouldnt try for more than 200 on stockers though....assuming the fuel pump keeps up. I have 6 7mge injectors sitting atop my puter desk as well...lol
6psig means nothing by itself. 100lbs/min at 6psig is a whole lot more than 50lbs/min at 6psig.....this ties into the huge turbo low boost theory that Toysrme was talking about avoiding. I would HIGHLY suggest you do some more homework before just attempting to slap on a turbo.
Just a friendly suggestion.Do you know where you are going to get your pressurized oil line from? And how you are going to route the oil return line? And what if the turbo is also water cooled? Where are you going to tap into the pressurized coolant system? Next you have to worry about the pressure managment. You going with an internal or external wastegate? And what A/R sizes and turbine trims are you looking at for the T3 side? I dont know but i think you may have a hard time spooling a T4 compressor....
I have all of that ironed out save the proper a/r, trims, and compressor sizes to get full boost from the 3.slow...I just need my drive train fully rebuilt first.
Tis much better to mount in the engine bay in front of the master cylinder, imo...but I've yet to do a custom turbo, so take it for what it's worth.
And I wish you the best of luck!
Hey toysrme, how did your bud's 3vzfe do on the GM4 turbo like whats in my avatar? When did it spool by? (the GM4 is a horrid turbo for the 6.5L diesel as the setup looses 2 psi by 3200rpm... When you start at 5psig stock thats not much boost.
However that COULD be the puter pulling boost for whatever reason. [boost is actually vacuum operated and then modulated by the puter and you KNOW that GMs waste gate solenoid valve is suuuuuper reliable! :rolleyes:] Anyhow a mechanical boost controller is on the way to save the day! lol That and a 4" straight exhaust after the 3" manderal downpipe)
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 10-10-2005 at 10:01 PM.
10-11-2005, 06:53 AM
#30
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Werd on the injectors. 200cc/5*6injectors= 240bhp. Knock that down to 85% and you get 204bhp worth of fuel.
I'm not pretending to know what fuel pump is in a 3vz-e truck. If it's the same part 2vz & 3vz-fe's got, it's a craptastic 80lph unit originally shared with i4 Corolla... It's weeeeak. Definitely gotta spring for a 190lph walbro.
(Why not buy a 255 like everyone else? Because it's that much more to correct & frankly, nobody is ever gonna need more than a 190 less you're doing a full build-up like
Tony did, or at least rebuilding the engine.
BY thanks for asking!
I wouldn't use such large turbo's. It's a disaster in day-to-day driving!
On the first GM8 it was positive pressure at 3700rpm, 5psi @ 4000rpm. We bought a new one & ported it out when he was ready to up the boost. Positive at 3700, 14/15psi at 4200rpm.
Remember this was on a 3vz-fe. It wasn't starting on the stock 185-200bhp engine either. It was 240-250bhp.
We don't get hurt with the lamely low rpm limits & we have... Well better parts in some places yall don't LoL!
We don't know what he's pushing yet on the new turbo & 1 bar. Based on the compressor & what he was running at 5psi, he should be easily be around 380-400bhp now. It feels like it use to when we was running N/A with the 100 wet shot on it. In any case it's well over 350bhp.
You couldn't spool a turbo like that one to be streetable on a bone stock 3vz-fe. It would be really bad on a 3vz-e, yall might get a couple thousand rpm of use out of something like a GM# turbo (IHI RHC6). I would avoid diesel truck turbos altogether - they're simply too large for a 3.0L v6 to drive on & if you're racing - you have money to buy better turbos!!!
I would stick with:
TDO5-16g
TDO6-20g
T3 60 trim (60/63)
T3 super 60
Personally, I would skip any of the t3/t04b hybrids. If a normal t3 can take ou where you want to go, you definitely need to skip them. If you do need a more, grab a 40, 45, 50, or 60 trim T04E compressor. Skip the odd sizes, they don't work as well!
For a twin turbo, I would stick with the baby ihi rhb52w's. They spool incredibly fast.
Two ihi rhc52w's VJ11's off a MX6/Probe for twin turbo through about 310bhp
Two ihi rhc52w's VJ16's off an 87-88 tbird through 420bhp. Anything over just pick stuff.
I would really keep it under 300bhp. 3vz-fe's don't have problems running up into 400bhp+ with dorkloads of fuel to keep the piston & rings from melting, but they have stronger rods & apparently are much less prone to detonation. Not saying you couldn't do it on a stock 3vz-e, but I don't think it'd be a good idea unless you're god's gift to tuning & drive very conservatively all the time.
(Don't take this offensive in any way) but I don't see why yall always go with the 5vz-fe. The internal parts aint really much stronger & it still has some pretty crappy limits without a standalone, or very good piggyback.
Might as well drop in an early model 1uz-fe for $900 & turbo that. The couple of freaks doing performance with them are making more stock than stock 2jz-gte's are by a little bit for the dyno queens, and they hold up a lot better on the street stock VS stock. (They're a hell of a lot cheaper, did we mention you can buy 120-200,000 mile 1uz-fe's on ebay for $500-900 yet all day long?)
Considering all they came in on the early years was LS400 & SC400s... Trust me, it's nothing but easy 15,000 highway miles driven by old people until they wreck whatever.
That or a 3vz-fe. We make more hp than 5vz-fe's ever did, with like 10bhp of torque loss, and nearly 3000rpm more goodness to play with. Like low torque? It's not like we lack much, 95% peak torque on a bone stock one comes in at 2000rpm(lowest rpm anyone could ever dyno in 3rd on the A/T), 100% at 2500rpm, dips for ACIS, re-peaks at 4400rpm after it flips closed. That's stock. fe's pickup 10-15 bhp through nothing bu timing advance & leaning the stock richness out.
A good y-pipe for us is worth another 10-15bhp - yall would have a hella easy time making a better y-pipe than we ever could.
Sorry... Just ranting, I'm not a 3.4L fan.
Come on guys, yall have it easy! Yall don't get to deal with a tight engine bay & transverse layout between frame supports! More 3vz-e turbo projects need to start up!!!
FYI, what's yalls lower intake manifold look like? The 97+ 1mz-fe supercharger with light modification will fit on pre 96 1mz-fe's & 3vz-fe's. It would be pointed the wrong way, but the TRD crapcharger off a 3.0L may be a remote option to anyone that really has the guff for it.
For the money involved... Just do a turbo LoL!
I would like to leave you guys with one thought... Saab uses a single tiny turbo slung on one bank.
It went from N/A in the 1995 9000's v6
210bhp @ 6100rpm / 200lb-ft @ 3400rpm
To
200bhp @ 5,000rpm / 228lb-ft @ 2500rpm _ 3.63psi (0.25bar) GT15
Now
230bhp @ 5,500rpm / 258lb-ft @ 2100rpm-3400rpm _ 5.8psi (0.4bar) GT17
(243lb-ft @ 1900rpm-4600rpm for A/T)
If it's so hard for you guys to do a turbo setup, just do a small one off one back. Take the exhaust pipe for the other side immediately off the manifold & hammer the sob down to 75-80% of the turbine entry diameter for like 8".
I'm sure it would be killer for yall with like an ihi rhb52w VJ16 out of a thunderbird. They spool quick & flow roughly the same amount as a GT17/20. You guys would have monstor low end torque off a $25-50 used part & a few afternoons with a wire feed welder.
Think it won't work? We had a 3vz-fe do it a few years back with a t3/t4 hybrid.
Personally, I've always wanted to do it just to be different. Then kit it for like $500 for all the ES/Windom/Camry's to buy.
I'm not pretending to know what fuel pump is in a 3vz-e truck. If it's the same part 2vz & 3vz-fe's got, it's a craptastic 80lph unit originally shared with i4 Corolla... It's weeeeak. Definitely gotta spring for a 190lph walbro.
(Why not buy a 255 like everyone else? Because it's that much more to correct & frankly, nobody is ever gonna need more than a 190 less you're doing a full build-up like
Tony did, or at least rebuilding the engine.
BY thanks for asking!
I wouldn't use such large turbo's. It's a disaster in day-to-day driving!
On the first GM8 it was positive pressure at 3700rpm, 5psi @ 4000rpm. We bought a new one & ported it out when he was ready to up the boost. Positive at 3700, 14/15psi at 4200rpm.
Remember this was on a 3vz-fe. It wasn't starting on the stock 185-200bhp engine either. It was 240-250bhp.
We don't get hurt with the lamely low rpm limits & we have... Well better parts in some places yall don't LoL!
We don't know what he's pushing yet on the new turbo & 1 bar. Based on the compressor & what he was running at 5psi, he should be easily be around 380-400bhp now. It feels like it use to when we was running N/A with the 100 wet shot on it. In any case it's well over 350bhp.
You couldn't spool a turbo like that one to be streetable on a bone stock 3vz-fe. It would be really bad on a 3vz-e, yall might get a couple thousand rpm of use out of something like a GM# turbo (IHI RHC6). I would avoid diesel truck turbos altogether - they're simply too large for a 3.0L v6 to drive on & if you're racing - you have money to buy better turbos!!!
I would stick with:
TDO5-16g
TDO6-20g
T3 60 trim (60/63)
T3 super 60
Personally, I would skip any of the t3/t04b hybrids. If a normal t3 can take ou where you want to go, you definitely need to skip them. If you do need a more, grab a 40, 45, 50, or 60 trim T04E compressor. Skip the odd sizes, they don't work as well!
For a twin turbo, I would stick with the baby ihi rhb52w's. They spool incredibly fast.
Two ihi rhc52w's VJ11's off a MX6/Probe for twin turbo through about 310bhp
Two ihi rhc52w's VJ16's off an 87-88 tbird through 420bhp. Anything over just pick stuff.
I would really keep it under 300bhp. 3vz-fe's don't have problems running up into 400bhp+ with dorkloads of fuel to keep the piston & rings from melting, but they have stronger rods & apparently are much less prone to detonation. Not saying you couldn't do it on a stock 3vz-e, but I don't think it'd be a good idea unless you're god's gift to tuning & drive very conservatively all the time.
(Don't take this offensive in any way) but I don't see why yall always go with the 5vz-fe. The internal parts aint really much stronger & it still has some pretty crappy limits without a standalone, or very good piggyback.
Might as well drop in an early model 1uz-fe for $900 & turbo that. The couple of freaks doing performance with them are making more stock than stock 2jz-gte's are by a little bit for the dyno queens, and they hold up a lot better on the street stock VS stock. (They're a hell of a lot cheaper, did we mention you can buy 120-200,000 mile 1uz-fe's on ebay for $500-900 yet all day long?)
Considering all they came in on the early years was LS400 & SC400s... Trust me, it's nothing but easy 15,000 highway miles driven by old people until they wreck whatever.
That or a 3vz-fe. We make more hp than 5vz-fe's ever did, with like 10bhp of torque loss, and nearly 3000rpm more goodness to play with. Like low torque? It's not like we lack much, 95% peak torque on a bone stock one comes in at 2000rpm(lowest rpm anyone could ever dyno in 3rd on the A/T), 100% at 2500rpm, dips for ACIS, re-peaks at 4400rpm after it flips closed. That's stock. fe's pickup 10-15 bhp through nothing bu timing advance & leaning the stock richness out.
A good y-pipe for us is worth another 10-15bhp - yall would have a hella easy time making a better y-pipe than we ever could.
Sorry... Just ranting, I'm not a 3.4L fan.
Come on guys, yall have it easy! Yall don't get to deal with a tight engine bay & transverse layout between frame supports! More 3vz-e turbo projects need to start up!!!
FYI, what's yalls lower intake manifold look like? The 97+ 1mz-fe supercharger with light modification will fit on pre 96 1mz-fe's & 3vz-fe's. It would be pointed the wrong way, but the TRD crapcharger off a 3.0L may be a remote option to anyone that really has the guff for it.
For the money involved... Just do a turbo LoL!
I would like to leave you guys with one thought... Saab uses a single tiny turbo slung on one bank.
It went from N/A in the 1995 9000's v6
210bhp @ 6100rpm / 200lb-ft @ 3400rpm
To
200bhp @ 5,000rpm / 228lb-ft @ 2500rpm _ 3.63psi (0.25bar) GT15
Now
230bhp @ 5,500rpm / 258lb-ft @ 2100rpm-3400rpm _ 5.8psi (0.4bar) GT17
(243lb-ft @ 1900rpm-4600rpm for A/T)
If it's so hard for you guys to do a turbo setup, just do a small one off one back. Take the exhaust pipe for the other side immediately off the manifold & hammer the sob down to 75-80% of the turbine entry diameter for like 8".
I'm sure it would be killer for yall with like an ihi rhb52w VJ16 out of a thunderbird. They spool quick & flow roughly the same amount as a GT17/20. You guys would have monstor low end torque off a $25-50 used part & a few afternoons with a wire feed welder.
Think it won't work? We had a 3vz-fe do it a few years back with a t3/t4 hybrid.
Personally, I've always wanted to do it just to be different. Then kit it for like $500 for all the ES/Windom/Camry's to buy.
Last edited by Toysrme; 10-11-2005 at 08:21 AM.
10-11-2005, 10:48 AM
#32
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Ya, way off subject now
, my 3vz-fe is habitually blowing head gaskets at this point. This last set I put brand new studs in & torqued 5lb-ft at a time until they hit 100, or 105lb-ft (I forget) isntead of the stock 40, or 45 (I forget). I'm thinking Lexus didn't have the heads & block decked when it went through the originall recall & the heads are warped. Which is why I keep blowing gaskets.
I'm tired of playing with this engine. I may cut out some copper headgaskets for the hell of it & put them in, but I'm buying a JDM 3vz-fe off ebay before/during winter & dropping it in. I'll probably try to twin turbo it, since it's impossible to do with the engine in our bays. (It may still be, if I have to move P/S, fuel, coolant, brake & A/C lines around!)
Then I've convinced myself I need to sell the Lexus while I'm still young for the gayest thing of all time. A Miata to turbo! hahahahaha
There's a pool going on another forum on how many days it takes before it has a setup in it off spare parts!
This engine has coolant blowing into 3 cylinders. So it's going out in a ball of flames! Right now I'm planning on doing a single bank turbo just to see how it would work out. Sling a spare turbo on the front & just beat the hell out of the rear bank's y-pipe.
Just to see how evenly it will run.
It's not the money man, it's just the will to do it. You can turbo anything for real cheap & still have it be reliable.
, my 3vz-fe is habitually blowing head gaskets at this point. This last set I put brand new studs in & torqued 5lb-ft at a time until they hit 100, or 105lb-ft (I forget) isntead of the stock 40, or 45 (I forget). I'm thinking Lexus didn't have the heads & block decked when it went through the originall recall & the heads are warped. Which is why I keep blowing gaskets.I'm tired of playing with this engine. I may cut out some copper headgaskets for the hell of it & put them in, but I'm buying a JDM 3vz-fe off ebay before/during winter & dropping it in. I'll probably try to twin turbo it, since it's impossible to do with the engine in our bays. (It may still be, if I have to move P/S, fuel, coolant, brake & A/C lines around!)
Then I've convinced myself I need to sell the Lexus while I'm still young for the gayest thing of all time. A Miata to turbo! hahahahaha
There's a pool going on another forum on how many days it takes before it has a setup in it off spare parts!
This engine has coolant blowing into 3 cylinders. So it's going out in a ball of flames! Right now I'm planning on doing a single bank turbo just to see how it would work out. Sling a spare turbo on the front & just beat the hell out of the rear bank's y-pipe.
Just to see how evenly it will run.
It's not the money man, it's just the will to do it. You can turbo anything for real cheap & still have it be reliable.
Last edited by Toysrme; 10-11-2005 at 10:49 AM.
10-11-2005, 12:39 PM
#34
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No. You can have custom MLS gaskets made for about $200-250. That's what the big 3vz-fe turbo guy (above) went too before we got into turbo'ing his car. Back when he started running big n2o shots he had a set made & installed before it became a problem for him.
10-11-2005, 03:39 PM
#37
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Since you seem to know a lot about the 3vz-fe is the head bolt pattern different between the e and fe? Also how different are the engine mounts and bellhousing?
10-11-2005, 04:14 PM
#38
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Head bolding pattern is the same. So are the passages for the most part. If you're wanting to swap the heads, check one of the two threads about it.
You can make your own contrast / compair.
'cause I can cut & ring(if needed) my own copper HG's. I doubt I could do several sheets of steel consistantly.
I really think the block, or the heads are warped - so in any case it's not gonna matter what HG I put on there over any signifigant amount of time. Which is why I don't just sit down & do it.
One neat thing we have that might interest yall is an oil filter standoff to get around our front engine mount. Yall could easily buy one, cut it in half, tap threads into the passages & make a remote oil filter system for real cheap. with 4 barbs & some fuel/oil hose & clamps. It also has caps on the end of the oil filter mount you can take out & put common hose barbs in. Good for an external oil supply without any work!
Looks like this, you can see the big 5/16" barb I needed to put in mine.
And it apparantly looks like it will bolt to yall's block.
You can make your own contrast / compair.
why copper HGs though? Why not multi layer steel HG?
I really think the block, or the heads are warped - so in any case it's not gonna matter what HG I put on there over any signifigant amount of time. Which is why I don't just sit down & do it.
One neat thing we have that might interest yall is an oil filter standoff to get around our front engine mount. Yall could easily buy one, cut it in half, tap threads into the passages & make a remote oil filter system for real cheap. with 4 barbs & some fuel/oil hose & clamps. It also has caps on the end of the oil filter mount you can take out & put common hose barbs in. Good for an external oil supply without any work!
Looks like this, you can see the big 5/16" barb I needed to put in mine.
And it apparantly looks like it will bolt to yall's block.
10-11-2005, 04:37 PM
#39
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Toysrme
One neat thing we have that might interest yall is an oil filter standoff to get around our front engine mount. Yall could easily buy one, cut it in half, tap threads into the passages & make a remote oil filter system for real cheap. with 4 barbs & some fuel/oil hose & clamps. It also has caps on the end of the oil filter mount you can take out & put common hose barbs in. Good for an external oil supply without any work!
Looks like this, you can see the big 5/16" barb I needed to put in mine.
Looks like this, you can see the big 5/16" barb I needed to put in mine.
