jwahaus

No, I havn't put it on a dyno. I'm not sure what would be the point other
than measuring the HP. As fas as I know, there is no tweeking you can do
with my setup. Or is there?

I expect you ment to say "can't sneak out..."

Another down side is that I won't be able to putch it without alerting every
cop within a mile radius.

ManyMods

I might suggest going slowly with the breathing improvements because I still think that the tuning for the SC / 7th injector setup might be a tad lean. Personally, if I were doing this again I would:
1) install an Amsoil filter in the "stock" airbox
2) install a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
3) install headers with the "stock" exhaust system

Other than starting to experiment with all the piggy back tuners and changing out the injectors themselves, I think this could give you a very nice setup and I am betting that by using headers, the exhaust tone with the stock exhaust would improve in terms of a slightly louder tone. I would also replace the intake silencer with a straight tube, like the pvc one I fabricated. JM2C YMMV

juicyfruity

Why would you need such a big fuel pump? You will never reach the potential of the 190 in the first place... that would be over 400 HP...

Stock exhaust system?!?!? With a force fed engine, you don't have to worry about scavenging. The scavenging is done by the compressed intake charge during valve overlaping... i.e. when both intake and exhaust valves are open. The stock muffler is also very restrictive, its not straight through... I would agree the stock pipe size is good for N/A... but for over 250 HP, you would be looking OVER 2.5 inches... cat included...

You can still make a quiet exhaust and still keep it free flowing. It guess it depends what you want to do with your truck. I've been doing alot of research about exhausts during the last few months and when I'm ready, I will definately go 3" full exhaust.

jwahaus

Just wanted to post an update on my experience with the Supercharger
and 7th injector kit. I've had it on for about 4000 miles now.

Vacuum house routing: I've tried it both ways a few time's and I've
decided that for overall performance keeping the vacuum hose from
the FPR connected to the boost port is the best configuration.
The instructions from the 7th injector install tell you to move this hose
to the intake silencer. This change is good for light throttle and bad
for everything else.

Pinging: One thing I've noticed that has a BIG impact on pinging is
the outside air humidity. I've noticed on rainy days with the humidity
around 90-95% my engine would run smooth as silk and never ping.
On a dry day the engine will sometimes ping lightly at some throttle
positions. Now since I cant control the outside air humidity (and don't
want to get into spraying water into my intake) I've been experimenting
with octane boost additive.

Octane Boost: I've been systematically trying different brands of Octane
Boost additive with good results so far. I started with the cheepest stuff
you can buy at Wal-Mart. GumOut Octane Booster at $2.49 a bottle.
I've found that using booster does make a significant difference reducing
any pinging on dry days to a minimum. I've also noticed I picked up 2MPG
when using the booster additive. If you do the math: 2MPG * 15 Gal = 30
extra miles per tank. That 30 miles I picked up would have cost me about
1.5 gallons of extra gas at $2.15 a gallon or $3.23. So after doing the
math it is easy to see that it is more expensive to NOT use the octaine
booster. I've since tried the STP brand $3.50 (didn't like it), and I'm now
trying the brand with Dale Earnheart's (sp?) name on it (4 cans for $10)
With Octane Booster I'm now getting 20-21 MPG on mixed city/highway
driving and a moderately lead foot.

ManyMods

Will you please be more specific in your explanation of "good for light throttle and bad for everything else? I find no problems with it the way TRD has instructed; however, I have nothing to compare it to. The one thing I do not like is when I am rolling at +/- 30mph and mash the pedal; it downshifts once and sometimes into first for split second and then there is a slight lag before the power comes on. I am getting 17.5 - 17.8 mpg during around-town conservative driving and +20 mpg at highway speeds above 70 mph. I do find that I need to leave the ECT engaged in order to experience the smoothest shifting with the reprogrammed valve body from IPT. I would also note that during colder or damp weather my vacuum is lower than during the moderate temps and humidy we are experiencing these days. I have no preignition what so ever under any circumstances. Biy, I have been off this board for a long time --- guess I am busy. :beach:

Supercharged

Wow, those gas milage numbers are something I can only dream of. I have been consistantly getting 16 MPG. However, the pings has gone away with the 7th injector- knock on wood.

potroast

I thought the inlet was on the top radiator hose on the 3.4L?

Andrey

Hmm... I was getting around 18-20 mpg, and now with S/C and 7th injector kit my gas mileage went all the way down to 14-16 mph. Is this normal?

-- Andrey

midiwall

I would have figured that the inlet is on top of ALL engines ever made in the world - it makes sense to me. But, that's not how it is.. The inlet is on the bottom of the 3.4L.

midiwall

How long have you had the S/C on? The ECU will have to adjust a bit, but then you'll also have to get over slamming the right pedal to the floor at stop lights and freeway on-ramps.

Most folks report better gas mileage after an S/C install. But that comes after the wicked smile and the glow subsides, and they find the truck spending more time in higher gears to do the same amount of work. For example, towing a trailer up a grade...

jwahaus

With the TRD recommended configuration, very light throttle gives very
strong and smooth pull. At mid to full throttle it is not as smooth as
I would like. Using the boost port <-> FPR configuration, it takes more
throttle to get the same amount of pull on the low end but for mid and
full throttle the pull is smoother across the RPM range than with the
TRD configuration.

I'm still running with stock exhaust so perhaps that is a factor as well.

I haven't noticed any lag. The downshift thing bugs me as well but
that is life with an automatic. There is no way to get it to stay in gear
and give it lots of throttle.

I have noticed some significant shuddering sometimes if I hit the throttle
hard for just a second and then let off suddenly. It will pull real hard for
that first second and then it almost feels like I'm hitting the breaks if
I let off the throttle too quickly.

midiwall

Don't forget to post this in the For Sale forum as well.

terrytcl

Not sure if this helps any, but when I purchased my 99 4runner with factory installed TRD SC kit, it ran like crap.

the car would hesitate at part throttle, but at full throttle it would either accelerate like no tomorrow or slow down like it hit a wall.

found out that one of my coil packs was not seated fully.
also, changing the plugs to the Denso Iridum IK22 plugs cured any pinging i had and also made the acceleration much smoother in part and full throttle.

forgot to add.
my SR5 has 105k miles and the SC has been on it since the beginning.
also, if you're using stock injectors... look into using some Amsoil injector cleaner. it made a huge difference for me.
stock plugs are junk. saw so much evidence of detonation on the ceramic areas of the plug.

jwahaus

I'm not sure you can ever count on the dealer to install something
like a supercharger correctly. I try to avoid taking my truck anywhere
for that matter. The extra time and care I take when doing things
myself is worth the effort to me.

I installed these at the same time as my SC so I don't know what it would
be like without them.

I've actually got my setup running pretty well at the moment. I recently
cleaned the MAF sensor and then reset the ECU which did improve things
once the computer relearned. I'm also now using octane boost on top of
93 octane fuel. All and all I'm pretty happy with performance.

The only real issue I've noticed now is that when I start out with heavy
throttle, say 2/3 or more, and then quickly let off the throttle after about
a second or two of hard acceleration, the engine will cut out REAL quickly
almost like I'm hitting the brakes. It would be nice if the engine would
taper off a bit more gradually. I suppose the engine is trying to deal with
the fact that you've generated all this boost and then cut the gas. Perhaps
it can't deal with the fact that you've cut fuel at the same time there is all
this boost from the previous few seconds.

I've got the OBDII reader now and I've taken a baseline from before I cleaned
the MAF (and also adjusted the throttle position sensor cable a bit). It will
be interesting to see how the sensors look now that it is running better.

Don't know what I can do about the sudden cutout problem. It is not really
an issue most of the time its just that it isn't quite perfect! Yet!

I think I could still get a few more ponies from my setup if I had a
programmable Air/Fuel and Timing computer piggyback. That's a project
for another day though.

Gadget

Would you like to be able to retune your fuel map with that TRD 7th injector?

Gadget

jwahaus

Yes, that would be nice. I'm not really sure at this point exactly what
engine parameter needs to be adjusted to get optimal performance.

I'm hoping that by collecting the sensor data under various load conditions
that I can get a feel for what can be improved.

Once I get the data collected and charted I'll post it here and let everyone
have a look at it.

One consideration I have is exactly which sensors I need to monitor. If
I just collect data from all available sensors then the refresh time is not
very fast. I'm thinking the critical ones are: RPM, Timing Advance, Fuel
Trim (perhaps short term only), Air flow, and Engine Load.

Is it possible (or necessary) to have different fuel maps activated depending
on engine load? It seems to me that this is a big consideration as I would
expect the parameters needed at heavy load would be different than what
is needed during light engine load.

I'm pretty much a Nubie with respect to engine tuning. I'm counting on my
fellow Yotatechians to help me out here.

My background is in embedded software and computer engineering. I've
toyed with the idea of building my own custom computer to control the
engine but I suffer from TMPNET. (Too Many Projects, Not Enough Time)

Gadget

URD has had our own Additional Injector Controller made. We have tested it with the TRD 7th (or what ever th injector) injector on several different vehicles, 4Runners, Tacos, Matrix, Tundra and so on. In all cases we were able optimize the fuel deliver and greatly improve performance.

The way we do this is install little box under the hood, hook up three wires, and then unplug the TRD controller from the injector and plug ours into it. Then you can retune the fuel delivery from the 7th injector and optimize the fuel mix under all conditions for best possible performance.

We have taken this one step further. We have two separte maps in the unit that are completely 3 demensional and independant. The unit is set up to drive two high impedence injectors and on the second plug we have installed a special plug that will allow you to plug it directly into the Aquamist High Speed water injector valve so you can 3D tuning of a water injection system also.

It is a very simple but effective approach. The URD AIC will be up on the www.URDUSA.com site today and it will sell for less then $300.

Gadget

jwahaus

That device looks interesting. A couple of questions:
What are the two controlling parameters that determine fuel output?
Also, what determines which fuel map is used?

cstary

probably the MAP and RPM signals if it's a SS unit . . . .

$269 is a pretty nice price for that sort of control.

creed

Gadget

The map has two axis, one is RPM and the other is manifold pressure. Then you input the time in millisecond you want the injector to open in that paticular map cell. It is really simple.

Which map? One map controls one injector, and the other map controls the other injector.

Gadget