FattyCBR

If you've had your oil tested regardless of what type it is or what engine it's on (6 or 4 cylinder) can you either post the results here using the following format or email me if it's easier. I'd like to start a database for people to compare their results so they can see what condition their engine is in.

Thanks,
Milan

mheathSPAM@utk.edu (remove SPAM)

The following is my results and indicates that the Amsoil XL7500 series 5w-30 needs to be replaced after 7200 miles on my engine.

1998 4Runner 3.4 V6
Miles on truck: 82240 miles
Miles on oil: 7279 miles
Lab used: Oil Analyzers
Type: Amsoil XL7500 5w-30

Iron – 8
Chromium - 0
Lead -10
Copper - 1
Tin - 0
Aluminum - 4
Nickel - 0
Silver – 0
Silicon - 8
Boron - 0
Sodium - 0
Magnesium - 58
Calcium - 2958
Barium - 0
Phosphorus - 958
Zinc -1056
Molybdenum - 2
Titanium - 0
Vanadium - 0
Potassium – 0
Manganese - NA

Viscosity @ 212degrees – 8.68
Flashpoint - NA
% Fuel - 1
% Antifreeze – Neg.
% water - 0
% insolubles – NA

TBN-5.09
OXID-6.0
NITR- 16.0
Change- YES

FattyCBR

Bump. Hasn't anyone ever had their oil tested?

HaveBlue

Gadget is the only other person that has tested his oil, to my knowledge.
I haven't had mine tested. I've always stuck with Mobil1. I'll switch to Amsoil eventually. They're both good companies with good products.

FattyCBR

Hmm, bummer. Well here's two links for people interested:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilanalysis.html
www.amsoil.com

I prefer the analysis that Amsoil provides through Oil Analysers because I feel it's a little more complete. Total cost through Amsoil will run you around $20 and even if you do it only once will give you a baseline for when you need to change your oil.

butnut

I used them once when I first switched to Amsoil. I run it the full year, about 25K. I use the 0-30. I just got my test kit and will do an oil check the end June. My first report looked good. It recommended just a top off...of course I changed the oil. I'll let you know how my oil looks now I'm over 100K.

FattyCBR

Cool. Thanks Brian.

Yoda

I see the oil analysis reports on out diesel engines at work. Interested in seeing one of those? They are Cummins M11's, Cummins ISC's, and Detroit 2 strokes (in city transit bus'). The oil gets changed at 6000 miles

FattyCBR

Hmm, that would be interesting to see. Are they already in electronic format?

I'm primarily trying to compile one for Toyota engines so that people can understand when they need to change their oil based upon the type of oil they use and their specific engine. And also so that if they do get their oil analyzed they can see if their results are normal.

tomus1000

On a similar subject... One of my employees just bought a brand new BMW. The service department at the dealer told him that he doesn't need to do his FIRTS oil change until 15K 18K miles. How could this be possible? They want him to break in a brand new motor and leave that oil in there for 18K miles? It doesn't make sense.

HBoss

Hey FattyCBR,

How long (months) have you had the Amsoil in there and how often do you change only the filter (if at all so far)?

FattyCBR

I didn't change the filter at all for the run on the XL7500 since it was less than the recommended 7500 miles. Both the oil and filter were used for approximately 4-4.5 months before being changed. For this present run I'll probably test the oil at 7500 miles but leave it in to see what the test says (I currently have a Wix filter on it) and then replace all of it at 12k.

HBoss

Cool. I still have to test my own oil, but I've been trying the complete change @ 12 mths & just a filter change every 3 mths. I'll see if I can pick up a tester kit somewhere here & get some #'s for ya.

I'm doing a full change this Saturday so I will try to get a test kit before then.

Al

FattyCBR

That would be great, the more the merrier. If you can't get a test kit in time all you need to do is save approx. 4 oz. in a clean container. You may already know this, but to sample the oil correctly you want to have driven the vehicle around so that it has come to operating temperature. Then undo the oil pan plug and let it drain for at least 4 seconds before sticking the container into the oil flow.

I have seen both the Blackstone and the Oil Analyzer results and I know I said it before, but the Oil Analyzer results that are provided through Amsoil are IMO much more complete. Blackstone does not provide visc. @ 100˚ C, TBN, OXID, or NITR, which are the most indicative values for the oil's condition. All they provide is TAN a rough equivalent to TBN.

HTH

butnut

Hey Milan. You said you used a Wix filter...maybe that's why your oil crapped out so soon? I'm guessing Amsoil may not warranty anything if you use another filter brand. I change (will be) my filter every six months and since I plan to check my oil every filter change (since I'm at high mileage and my 100K warranty expired) I bought and installed the Fumoto valve. Perfect for getting a good sample with out too much mess and oil loss.

HBoss

Hey that's pretty cool. Is it made of metal?

FattyCBR

Hey Brian-

For that test I posted I was running an Amsoil filter. This time with the regular synthetic I'm running a Wix filter because I couldn't find my 2 spare Amsoil filters.

I was thinking about installing the Fumoto valve. I had 2 hangups: 1) cost, I know it's only $20 but I'm finishing up grad school and I'd rather spend the money on bills; 2) design, someone else pointed out that the threads actually protrude into the oil pan so that there will be at least a little oil left in the pan with the Fumoto valve. So between those two I decided not to buy one. But if you already have one installed it would be interesting the next time you change your oil to drain it using the Fumoto valve and then remove the valve and measure how much more comes out. If it's negligible then I'll be interested.

Thanks

butnut

Yes, very well built Japan quality. Here's the info...sold me.
Good point about the threads, if I remember, I'll pull the plug to see how much more drips out.
FUMOTO valve

ilocan

Well, got my test back and a little concerned with my results. Although I did pour in a bottle of Chevron Techron cleaner in the tank after I changed oil , so that was the most likely culprit. I'll need to do another test at 5K just to be sure.

1999 4Runner 3.4 V6
Miles on truck: 54961 miles
Miles on oil: 4563 miles
Lab used: Blackstone Labs
Type: Mobil1 5w-30

(Blackstone Lab's comments)
Note Lead. If you are using an additive of some sort, it may be causing the high lead level in your engine. If you are not using an additive, then lead may show poor wear at the bearings, though the other bearing metals are still okay. Paticles streaks throught the bearings can also cause temporary high lead. We'll Know more in the next sample. Your upper-end wear still looks okay. No fuel or anti-freeze was present. The TBN read 5.0, showing some reserve active additive left in the oil. A low reading is 2.0 or less. Suggest resamplin in 5000 miles to monitor.

Iron – 10
Chromium - 0
Lead -24
Copper - 5
Tin - 0
Aluminum - 3
Nickel - 0
Silver – 0
Silicon - 15
Boron - 135
Sodium - 9
Magnesium - 17
Calcium - 3279
Barium - 0
Phosphorus - 756
Zinc - 963
Molybdenum - 70
Titanium - 0
Vanadium - 0
Potassium – 0
Manganese - NA

Viscosity @ 212degrees – 60.1
Flashpoint - 400
% Fuel - <.5
% Antifreeze – 0
% water - 0
% insolubles – .3
TBN-5

HBoss

I have no idea what these #'s mean. If only I'd stayed awake in chem class...*sigh*

Seriously, what are the important items to note? Viscosity #, lead #, what else & why?

Did my oil change today, will get the old tested after work & post the results.

Al

ilocan

Al,

The main things I look at are the Aluminum, Iron, Lead, and silicon. The universal averages would be 3, 9, 5 and 14 respectively. You also want to look at the TBN (low = 2) number as well.

These numbers give you and idea of how much wear and tear an engine is going through and how well the oil is protecting. For example,

Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (symptoms like piston slap, rod knock)

Iron: Cylinders, valve train, rotating shafts (worn piston rings, abnormal valve wear)

Lead: Bearings (abnormal bearing wear)

Silicon: Airborne Dirt (dirty or faulty airfilter or air leak)

If you look at my analysis you can see my bearing wear (lead) is really off the scale which warns me to change the oil immediately. If levels were normal the oil would have easily lasted to 7300 miles since my TBN number is still at 5 meaning that it has some reserve active additive left.

Also, you guys running BG44k in your tanks or any fuel cleaning additive, make sure you change your oil 500 miles after you use the stuff. If you don't believe me look at the test results.

Also for you Amsoil users, it looks like the 3.4 motor is really tough on oil regardless of which brand. After less than 5000 miles, my TBN number really degraded fast. TBN usually starts out like 12 or something for Mobil1.