Misfire Update
#1
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Misfire Update
Ok, so as of now I have installed NEW Denso Plugs, NGK Wires, Magaflow 91005 Catalytic Conveter and Magnaflow Muffler 12286 (hoping it quiets down after the breakin period).
I used the remote starter for a few days and just key start for a few days...here are the results:
Weather conditions in Delaware have been very cold (30F-35F during the day and 20f to 5f during the nights with wind chills to 0F to -2F)
-Remote Start: Usually popped the P0302 code everytime. Ran like crap, sputtered, loud exhaust sound, shook, till i stopped and restarted with the key OR revved the crap out of it.
-Key Start: Some days no code and some days (like this morning) just like I used the remote starter. Started fine, I let it warm up for about 5 mins, go back out to leave and....theres the CEL. Use the reader and P0302. Runs like crap till you get it moving and run it.
I have not had a chance to look over the engine to look at hoses and things like that. This is really starting to piss me off. I don't want to go to a dealer, but I think I may have to, to get them to use there reader to figure it out.
Anyone have any other idea's what it could be.
Thanks
Bob
I used the remote starter for a few days and just key start for a few days...here are the results:
Weather conditions in Delaware have been very cold (30F-35F during the day and 20f to 5f during the nights with wind chills to 0F to -2F)
-Remote Start: Usually popped the P0302 code everytime. Ran like crap, sputtered, loud exhaust sound, shook, till i stopped and restarted with the key OR revved the crap out of it.
-Key Start: Some days no code and some days (like this morning) just like I used the remote starter. Started fine, I let it warm up for about 5 mins, go back out to leave and....theres the CEL. Use the reader and P0302. Runs like crap till you get it moving and run it.
I have not had a chance to look over the engine to look at hoses and things like that. This is really starting to piss me off. I don't want to go to a dealer, but I think I may have to, to get them to use there reader to figure it out.
Anyone have any other idea's what it could be.
Thanks
Bob
#3
Swap coils first, see if the misfire follows the coil, easiest way to start.
P0302 is a specific cyl 2 misfire.
With what you've replaced, either a coil or the injector is faulty.
I have seen a few with bad injectors now, but the coil swap is the common sense easy start.
It almost sounds like gunk is settling in the injector overnight, or its leaking down and fouling out the cylinder at start up.
Good Luck!
Frank
P0302 is a specific cyl 2 misfire.
With what you've replaced, either a coil or the injector is faulty.
I have seen a few with bad injectors now, but the coil swap is the common sense easy start.
It almost sounds like gunk is settling in the injector overnight, or its leaking down and fouling out the cylinder at start up.
Good Luck!
Frank
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**UPDATE**
Already did the coil swap when I replaced the plugs and wires.
On my way to work this morning, got about 5 miles away from work and its started again...rough idle, exhaust sounded like I didn't have one, between 50 and 60mph the 4Runner shook...but the CEL never came on. Pulled into work look over the engine real quick...pulled the spark plug boot off cyl #2...could hear the wire firing...stil never thru a code. I going to do the compression test tonight.
Already did the coil swap when I replaced the plugs and wires.
On my way to work this morning, got about 5 miles away from work and its started again...rough idle, exhaust sounded like I didn't have one, between 50 and 60mph the 4Runner shook...but the CEL never came on. Pulled into work look over the engine real quick...pulled the spark plug boot off cyl #2...could hear the wire firing...stil never thru a code. I going to do the compression test tonight.
#5
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Compression test should be interesting. This would rule out a major valve problem (valve timing could still be off) and that would be a good thing. There have been cases on the boards where oil sludge has interfered with valve operation and you really don't want to be in that boat.
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Bob,
Did you clean the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)...? I had a bank one lean code..and I was surprised to discover just how much DRAMA a dirty MAF can cause us...
I had the same strange situation and AND Before I replaced everything under the sun I pulled the MAF and cleaned it. The most visible Large silver wire, I very LIGHTLY cleaned with a Q-tip dipped in MAF cleaner, you would not believe the dark grease that came off of the MAF on the Q-tip..
AND now for the the mostly hidden DELICATE looking thin wires (2 of them) located DEEP in the Black tube.. they should NOT be cleaned with the QTIP as you will snap break them , just spray them with MAF, again a lot of junk will come out of the tube.. My rig ran perfect after that no miss fire, pinging OR codes.. Good luck and God Speed
Did you clean the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)...? I had a bank one lean code..and I was surprised to discover just how much DRAMA a dirty MAF can cause us...
I had the same strange situation and AND Before I replaced everything under the sun I pulled the MAF and cleaned it. The most visible Large silver wire, I very LIGHTLY cleaned with a Q-tip dipped in MAF cleaner, you would not believe the dark grease that came off of the MAF on the Q-tip..
AND now for the the mostly hidden DELICATE looking thin wires (2 of them) located DEEP in the Black tube.. they should NOT be cleaned with the QTIP as you will snap break them , just spray them with MAF, again a lot of junk will come out of the tube.. My rig ran perfect after that no miss fire, pinging OR codes.. Good luck and God Speed
Last edited by icerunner; 01-12-2010 at 02:08 PM.
#7
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Yea, I cleaned all that when I replaced everything. When I bought the
4Runner, the owner replaced the engine in it. Called the warranty department and found out I still have a 1yr warranty left on it....so back to the installer it goes.
4Runner, the owner replaced the engine in it. Called the warranty department and found out I still have a 1yr warranty left on it....so back to the installer it goes.
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#8
Compression test will be interesting. If no2 plug is soaking wet and compression off the charts, no 2 injector sticking open. If not, I'd probably pull the plenum off and test resistance of all injectors, maybe swap no.2 to another location, see if the problem moves. Have you noticed fuel smell? Especially unburnt fuel in exhaust?
#9
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Pulled the #2 plug last night, dry. Pulled a few other plugs and they were all dry. I didn't do the compression test after all since I found out I have a 1yr warranty left on the engine (prev. owner installed a new Jasper Engine), so I am taking it back to the install to have them look it over. I will let you all know what the findings are.
bob
bob
#10
Fualty injector?
I have a similar problem, Spark is good to all plugs, has new cap, rotor, and wires. Compression is good, valve lash is good (.008in-.012ex) done hot. Problem is #1 cylinder does not make power, plug is black. I removed all injectors and cleaned them, they are all clicking and spraying and ohmage is good. Someone told me it could be a bad valve but head is one year new and has been running fine for several months until now. (1993 Toyota truck 22RE) I don't know weather to change the injector or remove the head. No codes, does anyone know what it could be?
Last edited by dossman; 04-10-2010 at 04:54 AM. Reason: more info
#11
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Looking to buy 89-95 extended cab 4x4 w/o drivetrain and in good condition. Will travel if fairly priced. valleystaky@yahoo.com
are you some kinda of moron bot maybe?
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