Installed Sliders and 1st Gen Roll Bar *PICS*
08-07-2006, 11:43 AM
#21
Contributing Member
Well I have owned three 1st gens so far, the roll bars were all mounted like you see in the thread. I'll be glad to go look & see if there is something more substantial under there, but I don't think so.
08-07-2006, 12:11 PM
#22
Originally posted by Travs97
looks good like the roll bar.i got the roll bar from my 89 runner that i wrecked. will the bar fit with out cutting it.
looks good like the roll bar.i got the roll bar from my 89 runner that i wrecked. will the bar fit with out cutting it.
Thanks!
No, it will not fit w/o cutting it. We first did a test fit to see if it would have to be cut. When the roll bar is laying down on top of the back seats that are folded down, we tried raising the bar up and over the fender wells, but we could not get the roll bar to sit properly b/c the front feet were too long and the bar was hitting the roof. 3rd gen fender wells are bigger than 1st gens. When Wabbit cut 2" off the front feet and we did our test fit again, it cleared the headliner by just centimeters and then it sat properly. We decided 2" was the perfect length to cut off to get a nice, tight fit.
Last edited by Rock Slide; 08-07-2006 at 12:12 PM.
08-07-2006, 12:22 PM
#23
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I absolutely love that roll bar! That is quite trick I must say. A fire extinguisher would also look great mounted to it. 
Glad you went with the scab plates on the Stubbs sliders. I don't think they should be installed (or sold for that matter) without them. My dimpled frame knows why.
Glad you went with the scab plates on the Stubbs sliders. I don't think they should be installed (or sold for that matter) without them. My dimpled frame knows why.
08-07-2006, 12:30 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Intrepid
I think you might be surprised. I think that if you did roll that roll bar might protect your passengers better than you think. I don't doubt that the sheetmetal would bend, but I don't think it would punch right through, afterall, chances that you are dropping straight out of the sky onto it are slim. More likely is a slower roll off an obstacle, which may keep the roof off your passengers heads.
08-07-2006, 12:40 PM
#25
Registered User
Originally Posted by 1985 4Runner
Well I have owned three 1st gens so far, the roll bars were all mounted like you see in the thread. I'll be glad to go look & see if there is something more substantial under there, but I don't think so.
08-07-2006, 05:09 PM
#26
All the 1st gen roll bars mount to the OEM sheet metal w/ 4 bolts per side...total of 8 bolts. The sheet metal is reinforced a bit, but definitely not tied directly to the frame.
The sheet metal in the rear of the 3rd gens is corrugated all over for rigidity and reinforced. While the roll bar mod certainly wouldn't help you in a 100 mph flip over...not much would...in a WHEELING flop or roll over...it would do its job for sure.
It definitely won't "punch" through as suggested w/o a significant impact and then the roll bar would be the least of your worries. I don't just play at fabrication online or by night, my full-timer is in fabrication engineering (degreed M.E.)...I see metal all day long.
The sheet metal in the rear of the 3rd gens is corrugated all over for rigidity and reinforced. While the roll bar mod certainly wouldn't help you in a 100 mph flip over...not much would...in a WHEELING flop or roll over...it would do its job for sure.
It definitely won't "punch" through as suggested w/o a significant impact and then the roll bar would be the least of your worries. I don't just play at fabrication online or by night, my full-timer is in fabrication engineering (degreed M.E.)...I see metal all day long.
08-08-2006, 04:37 AM
#30
Originally posted by Waskillywabbit
FYI: I added some of the pics to my website under "custom fabrication" Thanks again!
FYI: I added some of the pics to my website under "custom fabrication" Thanks again!
The pics look good on there Wabbit. Glad I could help.
Originally posted by ecchamberlin
It also makes a fine place to put a 285 full size spare to get it our from under the rear end.
Power tank will be mounted to it some day also.
Looks great!
It also makes a fine place to put a 285 full size spare to get it our from under the rear end.
Power tank will be mounted to it some day also.
Looks great!
Thanks. Like how yours is set up too.
08-08-2006, 04:59 AM
#31
Registered User
Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
All the 1st gen roll bars mount to the OEM sheet metal w/ 4 bolts per side...total of 8 bolts. The sheet metal is reinforced a bit, but definitely not tied directly to the frame.
The sheet metal in the rear of the 3rd gens is corrugated all over for rigidity and reinforced. While the roll bar mod certainly wouldn't help you in a 100 mph flip over...not much would...in a WHEELING flop or roll over...it would do its job for sure.
It definitely won't "punch" through as suggested w/o a significant impact and then the roll bar would be the least of your worries. I don't just play at fabrication online or by night, my full-timer is in fabrication engineering (degreed M.E.)...I see metal all day long.
The sheet metal in the rear of the 3rd gens is corrugated all over for rigidity and reinforced. While the roll bar mod certainly wouldn't help you in a 100 mph flip over...not much would...in a WHEELING flop or roll over...it would do its job for sure.
It definitely won't "punch" through as suggested w/o a significant impact and then the roll bar would be the least of your worries. I don't just play at fabrication online or by night, my full-timer is in fabrication engineering (degreed M.E.)...I see metal all day long.
08-08-2006, 09:38 AM
#34
Originally posted by OutdoorLiving
What is the 3M spray you used? How was it applied?
What is the 3M spray you used? How was it applied?
It's called 3M Rubberized Undecoating. It comes in a spray paint can and you just apply it like spray paint. I bought some high-temp black spray paint and 1st painted where the sliders were welded to the frame. After that dried, I went over it w/ the 3M stuff. I bought the 3M spray at Advanced Auto Parts. It's a little pricey, but I've never had problems w/ anything 3M makes, so I knew it would be good stuff. They also had off brands of undercoating, but I went w/ the tried and true method.
Check it out here. This is exactly what I bought at my local store:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=03584
Last edited by Rock Slide; 08-08-2006 at 11:02 AM.
08-08-2006, 10:01 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by Rock Slide
[/I]
It's called 3M Rubberized Undecoating. It comes in a spray paint can and you just apply it like spray paint. I bought some high-temp black spray paint and painted the sliders first w/ that. After that dried, I went over it w/ the 3M stuff. I bought the 3M spray at Advanced Auto Parts. It's a little pricey, but I've never had problems w/ anything 3M makes, so I knew it would be good stuff. They also had off brands of undercoating, but I went w/ the tried and true method.
Check it out here. This is exactly what I bought at my local store:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=03584
It's called 3M Rubberized Undecoating. It comes in a spray paint can and you just apply it like spray paint. I bought some high-temp black spray paint and painted the sliders first w/ that. After that dried, I went over it w/ the 3M stuff. I bought the 3M spray at Advanced Auto Parts. It's a little pricey, but I've never had problems w/ anything 3M makes, so I knew it would be good stuff. They also had off brands of undercoating, but I went w/ the tried and true method.
Check it out here. This is exactly what I bought at my local store:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=03584
That's the kind of information I was looking for. The ToyoGuard coating on the bottom of my 4R is finally chipping off after nearly 10yrs of wear. The road noise has increased a little bit, but I'm more interested in rust prevention for the bottom. Not that I worry much about it in Georgia, it'd still be nice to have.
08-09-2006, 06:54 AM
#38
Contributing Member
Rock Slide,
Nice, clean work. The end result looks sweet. One question though - the rear legs of your roll bar look skewed - the right leg is closer to the plastic than the left one. Any chance that the roll bar was bent before you purchased it? If you look at Eric's picture, you'll see the differences I mention.
Andreas
Nice, clean work. The end result looks sweet. One question though - the rear legs of your roll bar look skewed - the right leg is closer to the plastic than the left one. Any chance that the roll bar was bent before you purchased it? If you look at Eric's picture, you'll see the differences I mention.
Andreas
08-09-2006, 07:41 AM
#39
Originally posted by aowRS
Rock Slide,
Nice, clean work. The end result looks sweet. One question though - the rear legs of your roll bar look skewed - the right leg is closer to the plastic than the left one. Any chance that the roll bar was bent before you purchased it? If you look at Eric's picture, you'll see the differences I mention.
Rock Slide,
Nice, clean work. The end result looks sweet. One question though - the rear legs of your roll bar look skewed - the right leg is closer to the plastic than the left one. Any chance that the roll bar was bent before you purchased it? If you look at Eric's picture, you'll see the differences I mention.
Good eyes! Yeah, I had noticed that too and had even thought it was previously bent. However I came to the conclusion that it was made this way from the factory. The reason I say that is b/c I saw the 4R it came out of. The holes drilled in that 4R's sheet metal for the roll bar to mount to were in the exact location as the roll bar before it was removed. Another words, it was mounted in that 4R originally like that.
