How to Drop Spare with body lift on 3rd gen
#21
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You can raise the stock crossmember but the ends are arc'ed. Limiting the size of tire you can put in there, if you build one with square ends you'll get your tire up twice as high.
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Once I get cought up on the bumpers, that is a product I will build.
A 1" and 2" lift crossmember, you'll have to cut out the stocker and have a welder buzz in the new one.
Piece-O-Cake
A 1" and 2" lift crossmember, you'll have to cut out the stocker and have a welder buzz in the new one.
Piece-O-Cake
#24
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Originally Posted by Bigkahuna808
I guess Im doing things backwards. the body lift is one of my last mods. All I need is new tires and the runner is done. Now that Im gonna have a awsome street ride, I gotta get me a beater that I can trash rock crawling. Thanks for the write Brian.
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once the lift is done, I'll have money to spend on a digital camera to show what I did
Hey Steve I'll be waiting for that day, like a little kid waiting for Santa to come. I guess that would make you the 4runner Santa
Hey Steve I'll be waiting for that day, like a little kid waiting for Santa to come. I guess that would make you the 4runner Santa
Last edited by Bigkahuna808; 10-12-2004 at 11:25 PM.
#26
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Originally Posted by Bigkahuna808
once the lift is done, I'll have money to spend on a digital camera to show what I did
Hey Steve I'll be waiting for that day, like a little kid waiting for Santa to come. I guess that would make you the 4runner Santa
Hey Steve I'll be waiting for that day, like a little kid waiting for Santa to come. I guess that would make you the 4runner Santa
#27
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I have a 1½" 4Crawler Body Lift. To solve the spare tire issue, I changed the angle of the spare carrier (hoist). Removing the plastic dressing as Waskilly suggested does work, but my concern was with tab fatique (especially in cold weather) or a tire problem occurring while my wife happened to be driving (its rare, but occassionally happens during the winter).
I considered doing a write-up, but since it seems the majority here don't mind removing the rear bumper valance, I didn't bother. I have a few pictures I could post, but I'm not sure at what point during the process I stopped taking pics.
Here's an abridged version:
For additional security, I installed two 8MM nuts to the rear flange bolts and tightened. As a rust preventative, I fully retracted the tire carrier (without the spare) and applied a few coats of rubberized undercoating to all areas. I also lubed the internal workings of the hoist with a light oil while it was removed.
Mine requires a little pressure to insert the handle into the carrier, but its not bad and cranks easily. I rest easier knowing my wife, or someone assisting her, can now access the spare without needing to know they must remove something. I was also concerned occassionally removal of the plastic bumper valance over a period of years would likely cause the tabs to fatique and break (one of mine already has).
I considered doing a write-up, but since it seems the majority here don't mind removing the rear bumper valance, I didn't bother. I have a few pictures I could post, but I'm not sure at what point during the process I stopped taking pics.
Here's an abridged version:
- Remove the spare tire.
- Remove the tire carrier.
- On a suitable/stable surface (I used a steel "I" beam and a 4# hammer), pound the front flanges (side w/ hoist yoke) of the carrier DOWN a few degrees.
- Turn the carrier over and pound the rear flanges of the tire carrier an equal amount in the opposite direction or UP. (This allows the carriers threaded flange holes to remain parallel with the cross member bolts after the angle is changed.)
- Purchase two longer 1.25/8MM bolts, two 8MM lock washers, and at least six 3/8" SAE hardened washers (6 was required for a 1½". More/less may be needed for higher/lower BL lifts).
- Re-use two OEM bolts to re-secure the front threaded flanges (loosely).
- Use the two longer 8MM bolts and lock washers to re-secure the rear threaded flanges, placing X# 3/8 hardened washers between the cross member and each side of the now angled rear flanges of the tire carrier.
- Tighten all bolts and check the spare tire crank for alignment/fitment.
- If the crank does not enter the carrier yoke somewhat easily, additional washers and/or flange angle adjustment may be necessary.
- EDIT: Swede mentions a great point below I forgot to note. I did stretch the hole just enough to ease tension on the crank handle. Thanks Swede!
For additional security, I installed two 8MM nuts to the rear flange bolts and tightened. As a rust preventative, I fully retracted the tire carrier (without the spare) and applied a few coats of rubberized undercoating to all areas. I also lubed the internal workings of the hoist with a light oil while it was removed.
Mine requires a little pressure to insert the handle into the carrier, but its not bad and cranks easily. I rest easier knowing my wife, or someone assisting her, can now access the spare without needing to know they must remove something. I was also concerned occassionally removal of the plastic bumper valance over a period of years would likely cause the tabs to fatique and break (one of mine already has).
Last edited by hillbilly; 10-13-2004 at 07:38 AM.
#28
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Do what "Hillbilly" suggested for the hoist, but with a 2" lift you will need to also open up the hole on the forward end of the access hole where the crank rod goes through the bumper. This is what I did and it works perfectly. It allows the crank rod to angle down enough to meet up with hoist yoke.
Also, this pic was posted somewhere else with regards to the raiseing of the whole spare tire carrier: [IMG][/IMG]
Also, this pic was posted somewhere else with regards to the raiseing of the whole spare tire carrier: [IMG][/IMG]
Last edited by Swede; 10-13-2004 at 06:22 AM.
#29
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Once I get a camera that will, be possible Keisur. Kinda cool, here in Hawaii they surf right off the Famous Diamond Head (That mountin you see in pictures of Waikiki). I guess I cant figure out which write up or idea works be untill I actually get in there my self. Thanks guys.
#30
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I know what diamond head is. but I want to make sure you get pics of "wind"surfing, not surfing. hehe. I'm a crazy windsurfer if you can't tell! I'd appreciate the pics man.
#31
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Kinda cool, most people here are getting out of windsurfing and going to kite surfing. Wow, Im surprised most people dont know dimonad head. Most people dont surf regualr boards off Dimaond head, they either do to Wakiki or somewhere else. But Winter is comming hopefully the waves will reach 30 feet at Waimea Bay.
#32
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Originally Posted by Bigkahuna808
Wow, Im surprised most people dont know dimonad head
#33
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BAH!! STOP MODIFYING YOUR TRUCK TO DO THIS! For the RARE occurance that you may actually need to drop the spare just stick a 1/2 inch drive extension onto a monkey wrench...stick it into the crank hole and go to town. NO NEED to do anything else...just get a little dirty crawling under there to find the hole. But if you stick the crank rod in first...crawl under truck and look 2 inches above where the crank rod leads to - HOLE.
Note: I think it's a 1/2 - it could be 3/4...just match the drive to the crank rod.
Note: I think it's a 1/2 - it could be 3/4...just match the drive to the crank rod.
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Well, I just recieved my safari rack today so I could put my spare up there ( I have a 2inch BL). I guess I will try these ideas first before putting the safari rack on. SILLY ME !!!!
#36
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I personally would not put my spare on my roof. One thing its alot of weight (no big deal though.) Try taking that thing off the roof when your already in a bad mood because its raining and your tire is flat. Also try finding a decent jack that will reach you lift points with your new lift. My toyota jack comes up short. Any bigger jack would not fit in the stock location
#37
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Originally Posted by sschaefer3
Once I get cought up on the bumpers, that is a product I will build.
A 1" and 2" lift crossmember, you'll have to cut out the stocker and have a welder buzz in the new one.
Piece-O-Cake
A 1" and 2" lift crossmember, you'll have to cut out the stocker and have a welder buzz in the new one.
Piece-O-Cake
#38
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Hey, waskillywabit and 4runner4me, can you guys post a few pics of what you are talking about to lower the spare tire. I have a 2 inch BL and just got done mounting my safari rack on the roof with the spare tire mount. Doesnt look too bad, although I dont like the surco stickers they put on the rack.
I'll post some pics of my ride later.
Thanks for the help.
I'll post some pics of my ride later.
Thanks for the help.
#39
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I just attempted to pop the rear plastic on my rear bumper to see if I can gain access to the spare tire drop... I cannot pop the plastic off, it appears if I continue to pry at it, it will end up cracking.
Any advice on how to pop this off with a tool or a technique that will prevent busting it up?
Any advice on how to pop this off with a tool or a technique that will prevent busting it up?
#40
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Update, I drilled a new hole in the plastic portion of the bumper. When the rear hatch is closed you cannot see the hole. Only when the rear hatch is open is when you can see it. works well.
FOR SALE. SURCO ROOF RACK WITH SPARE TIRE MOUNT Brand new.
FOR SALE. SURCO ROOF RACK WITH SPARE TIRE MOUNT Brand new.