Hella Driving light wiring problem
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Hella Driving light wiring problem
I have 2 hella 500's on the front and I DO NOT want them to be wired in to activate with my high beams I want them on a separate switch. I have a relay with 4 prongs on it. One is for the ground, one goes to the lights, one is power, and the last one is what I ahve a question about. How do I wire up driving lights through a relay from a 3 prong switch to operate my new Hella's separately from my high beams. I am looking to have a totally separate set up so that I can turn on my driving lights when I want to via a switch on my dash. Any help is indeed appreciated. Thanks
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A 4 post relay has 2 sides, a switching side and a load side.
Load Side:
1pin connected to the batery +
1 pin connected to the consumer (lights)
Switch side:
1 pin signal wire comming from switch in dash
1 pin going to ground
normally (not always) the relay may have the diagram on the side of the relay case, and the connections will be numberd. Look at the actual pins, there may be numbers next to them that coorespond to the diagram. This will tell you what side is switching side and what is the load side.
Check this out.......
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/relay.htm
Id go for a 2 prong switch to make life easier!
Good Luck
John
Load Side:
1pin connected to the batery +
1 pin connected to the consumer (lights)
Switch side:
1 pin signal wire comming from switch in dash
1 pin going to ground
normally (not always) the relay may have the diagram on the side of the relay case, and the connections will be numberd. Look at the actual pins, there may be numbers next to them that coorespond to the diagram. This will tell you what side is switching side and what is the load side.
Check this out.......
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/relay.htm
Id go for a 2 prong switch to make life easier!
Good Luck
John
Last edited by DreamToy; 02-07-2004 at 06:08 PM.
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If i'm understanding this correctly the 3 prong switch has a power tap into the fuse panel either always hot or only hot when the key is on, and the relay is connected to the battery. Am I understanding this right: the switch has a separate power source and so does the relay?
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#8
That is correct.
The power source for the switch only has to be a trickle, it's what energizes the relay.
I have all three sets of my light switches tied in together, and it goes to one fused outlet on my underhood fuse box I wired in.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...box/mod39e.jpg
The power source for the switch only has to be a trickle, it's what energizes the relay.
I have all three sets of my light switches tied in together, and it goes to one fused outlet on my underhood fuse box I wired in.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...box/mod39e.jpg
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Originally posted by Corey
That is correct.
The power source for the switch only has to be a trickle, it's what energizes the relay.
I have all three sets of my light switches tied in together, and it goes to one fused outlet on my underhood fuse box I wired in.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...box/mod39e.jpg
That is correct.
The power source for the switch only has to be a trickle, it's what energizes the relay.
I have all three sets of my light switches tied in together, and it goes to one fused outlet on my underhood fuse box I wired in.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...box/mod39e.jpg
#13
Thanks. That's terrific. All I ever see around here are fuse blocks that do not have a common power source, basically just fuse holders. That unit is much neater.
Thanks again.
Mike
Thanks again.
Mike
#14
Yep, that big bolt goes right to your battery with a wire, and an inline fuse of course.
All the stuff I have connected to it have their own grounds, so no need for me to have a grounding source on the unit itself.
This is really a very simple mod indeed.
More info on it can be found here.
All the stuff I have connected to it have their own grounds, so no need for me to have a grounding source on the unit itself.
This is really a very simple mod indeed.
More info on it can be found here.
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