Engine Misfire.. Please Help
#21
Registered User
Thanks for the pic Dale.
I've been using di-elecrtic grease on outboard motor connections to help keep corrosion at bay for almost 2 decades now. I put it all over the metal contacts because I've learned that if I don't, the connectors will usually corrode themselves together in a saltwater environment.
Conductive grease would not help in this situation as it may cause a short and will not protect against corrosion. I've never seen a problem result from using di-electric on the connections and metal contacts on boat motors, so I don't see how it could be such a problem on our Toyotas. In fact, if you use conductive grease on external connections, like on the igniter's for instance, you increase your chances of shorting it out if some of that grease oozes out of the connector and arcs against something else. conductive grease is a no-no if it is used in an area that can get wet.
I've been using di-elecrtic grease on outboard motor connections to help keep corrosion at bay for almost 2 decades now. I put it all over the metal contacts because I've learned that if I don't, the connectors will usually corrode themselves together in a saltwater environment.
Conductive grease would not help in this situation as it may cause a short and will not protect against corrosion. I've never seen a problem result from using di-electric on the connections and metal contacts on boat motors, so I don't see how it could be such a problem on our Toyotas. In fact, if you use conductive grease on external connections, like on the igniter's for instance, you increase your chances of shorting it out if some of that grease oozes out of the connector and arcs against something else. conductive grease is a no-no if it is used in an area that can get wet.
#22
#23
Registered User
Read this smart guy:
http://www.shanghailoctite.com/templ...cs/DIEG-EN.PDF
http://www.shanghailoctite.com/templ...cs/DIEG-EN.PDF
#24
Read this smart guy:
http://www.shanghailoctite.com/templ...cs/DIEG-EN.PDF
http://www.shanghailoctite.com/templ...cs/DIEG-EN.PDF
connector = plastic parts that snap together
electrical contacts = the metal pieces inside the connector that carry current
Once again, dielectric grease is for connectors, not contacts!
Nothing that says "non conductive" right on the tube will help your circuit to conduct better.
#25
Registered User
The whole point is, contrary to what you warned about earlier, the poster can and should in fact use dielectric grease in the spark plug boots and the ignition coil connectors.
Just because I put dielectric on the metal contacts of the connectors in o/b motors doesn't mean the poster should on his Toyota - it obviously doesn't operate in water like an o/b motor does. I was simply illustrating the point that it isn't going to cause any problems even if he did.
I wouldn't be able to make that point if I didn't "understand the terminology". I don't put it on the contacts of o/b motors to improve the conductivity, I put it on because it will give it some corrosion protection w/o a significant (or any) loss of conductivity because the metal is still going to make contact with or w/o a little grease on it. And it's not conductive, so you don't have to worry about one contact arcing w/ another next to it.
Insulating improves conductivity. According to Loctite, "The compound prevents
voltage leakage [an example of insulation] around any electrical connector thereby insuring a strong spark in high energy ignition systems.". You said earlier that insulating is the opposite of what we want to do. I'll go with what Loctite says.
Just because I put dielectric on the metal contacts of the connectors in o/b motors doesn't mean the poster should on his Toyota - it obviously doesn't operate in water like an o/b motor does. I was simply illustrating the point that it isn't going to cause any problems even if he did.
I wouldn't be able to make that point if I didn't "understand the terminology". I don't put it on the contacts of o/b motors to improve the conductivity, I put it on because it will give it some corrosion protection w/o a significant (or any) loss of conductivity because the metal is still going to make contact with or w/o a little grease on it. And it's not conductive, so you don't have to worry about one contact arcing w/ another next to it.
Insulating improves conductivity. According to Loctite, "The compound prevents
voltage leakage [an example of insulation] around any electrical connector thereby insuring a strong spark in high energy ignition systems.". You said earlier that insulating is the opposite of what we want to do. I'll go with what Loctite says.
#26
once again there is nothing wrong with dielectric grease, voltage leak never heard of that ive heard of excessive resistance but not voltage leak.
anyway lets stay focused on the problem at hand which is his misfire. CHECK the following: sprark at cly 2 and 5 make sure nice and bright also have some one power brake it while checking spark (spark tester 2 dollars at auto zone), pulse width at injectors with a noid ligtht make sure nice and bright also power brake it while observing noid light. NExt pull the plugs for cly 2 and 5 only and send me a big close up pic of them, very important
The golden rule of diagnoses is check the simple stuff first. so u dont pull the whole engine apart when the problem is the plugs
u test a ignitor by replacing it! hahahahahahaha! no for real go get a new one and keep the receipt if doesnt work then keep the box and part clean and take it back! hahahahaha! no for real do it after checking what i have told u.
did u do the wet and dry test? if so please send results on all cylinders!
ALso send good overall pic of the engine bay
anyway lets stay focused on the problem at hand which is his misfire. CHECK the following: sprark at cly 2 and 5 make sure nice and bright also have some one power brake it while checking spark (spark tester 2 dollars at auto zone), pulse width at injectors with a noid ligtht make sure nice and bright also power brake it while observing noid light. NExt pull the plugs for cly 2 and 5 only and send me a big close up pic of them, very important
The golden rule of diagnoses is check the simple stuff first. so u dont pull the whole engine apart when the problem is the plugs
u test a ignitor by replacing it! hahahahahahaha! no for real go get a new one and keep the receipt if doesnt work then keep the box and part clean and take it back! hahahahaha! no for real do it after checking what i have told u.
did u do the wet and dry test? if so please send results on all cylinders!
ALso send good overall pic of the engine bay
#27
Registered User
master tech1 Thank you! any who. I would say to also to check the ohmage of the coil and possibly grounds 2&5 using the same coil and post on the igniter is telling me some thing this is why I said to di-electric the plug contacts because the lubricating properties help to break corrosion and when you plug it back together the plug can clean it's own contact surface and eliminate future corrosion.
as tech 1 has said the rest of the info make a difference and will help the diagnosis
Bad contact at the fuel injectors are less likely but since you just had those played around with I would make sure to di-electric those as well.
as tech 1 has said the rest of the info make a difference and will help the diagnosis
Bad contact at the fuel injectors are less likely but since you just had those played around with I would make sure to di-electric those as well.
#28
I am Having the same problem now. Noticed a smell like plastic melting from the passenger side engine compartment ,then my #3 cylinder started to misfire. Changed the wires and it was fine for three weeks. All of a sudden it starts running rough and I've got random misfire codes. Any ideas? 98 SR5 4runner 3.4L 4x4 with 112000 miles
#30
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Guelph Ont Canada
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I have just had the issue with the number 3 missfire, I sprayed the wires with wd40 and also pulled the coil wire out of 3 and sprayed it as well and it started working properly again. I am not sure if its the wires or the coil thats faulty.
#31
Registered User
The WD40 is a indication that you need to start using Di-electric grease by simply adding a slight bit to the contacts and installing as usual this prevents future corrosion, the WD40 may work for a while however it will cease to work...
#33
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Yup you were right, it lasted for my morning ride to work but not the ride home, I tried some white grease(no time get di electric) and same thing, after it warms up it runs fine but any kind of incline or fast acceleration and it acts up.
#36
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I cant seem to find any di-electric grease, Does it come in a tub or spray, who makes it what does it look like. Im in Canada and went to Canadian tire and I dont think they knew what I was talking about.
#37
Contributing Member
Tubes, like tooth paste. Most auto parts stores have it here. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058.../dp/B000AL8VD2
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-01-2010 at 05:14 AM.
#39
Registered User
Thats what she said
sorry couldn't help it!! yeah you get di-electric at auto store and it is made by Permatex usually if you can not find it ask they will show you where to find it, I suggest getting a bid tube for like $6.00 instead of smaller ones and you can apply it to electrical plugs all over
sorry couldn't help it!! yeah you get di-electric at auto store and it is made by Permatex usually if you can not find it ask they will show you where to find it, I suggest getting a bid tube for like $6.00 instead of smaller ones and you can apply it to electrical plugs all over
#40
Contributing Member
Its great for lubing poly bushings too.