mt_goat

Hey Andy, did you see the optional indicator for that controller:

Available for use with the fan and controller kits is a highly informative yet non-intrusive indicator that changes color linearly from green to red as output current increases. $9.95 installation sheet: L-101

bamachem

i saw it, but didn't get it. i don't think it was THAT cheap when i ordered mine...

hiloracerboy84

how much if any of a performanc increase did you feel? the fan on my runner seems to be a real pain in the butt. its so noisy and it makes the truck lag so much! im wonderin if you had a noticeable difference in acceleration, mpg etc....thanks

hiloracerboy84

also, you said you can wire the controller to the a/c to turn on to 50% when the a/c is running. which wire is this? and could u post a pic of exactly where to place the heat sensor thing on the radiator

bamachem

it's all in the directions about the AC connection and the different jumpers to attain different temperature set points. i'm using the standard set point on operating temp...

i put the heat sensor on the lower portion of the radiator on the driver side, behind the shroud.

i felt a good increase in power and MUCH MUCH QUIETER.

mt_goat

I noticed my 95 3.0 Taurus has a 2-speed fan. So I looked in my FSM and the one-speed motor is only used on vehicles equipped with 3.0L SHO engines and manual transaxle (MTX). All 3.0L/3.0L flexible fuel(FF), 3.2L SHO and 3.8L engines with automatic transaxle (ATX) use the 2-speed fan.

panhead

what direction is your fan blowing towards the motor or grill? did you have to reverse the rotaion I installed the same fan on a 2nd gen but when you hook the positive to the black on the fan it blows toward the grill hook it temp with a switch on the inside whating for the controller to come in thanks in advance for the info also enjoy the small freq drive I run comercial buildings and im very familiar with them they are the hot lick thanks Panhead

mt_goat

The fan blows toward the engine.

mt_goat

Here's the test fit of my Taurus 2 speed fan:



The shroud I made came was hitting the steering gear box, so I had to do a little grinding on the shroud to get some clearance:



Here's the backside of the shroud:



I wired the DCC controller to the high speed wire of the Taurus fan motor since it will automaticlly slow the speed down when needed.

The slow speed wire of the fan motor I hooked up to a competely seperate power system so it can be used as a back-up if the DCC system fails.

With this "on-off-on" switch I can go from the DCC controller to the backup with the flip of a switch. The "off" setting can be used for deep water crossings to keep water from damaging the fan or throwing water up into the intake.



Just found out from Brian @ DCC the proper way to bypass the DCC controller for deep water crossings is to switch the small yellow controller input wire from 12 volt "+" to "ground". http://www.dccontrol.com/circuits.htm

I had mistakenly wired it to switch off the 12 volt positive to the main fan input (big 10 gauge wire) through a 40 amp relay, but Brian informed me that the controller needs to have the main input connected while the controller is running since it uses active switching to clamp the flyback voltage of the fan. I guess the fan to kind of like a little generator and sends a reverse voltage back though the system. In Brian's words: "What happens is that when you turn the voltage off on a motor is that it will generate a very high reverse voltage. The controller clamps this to ground byway of an active switch. If there's no voltage to the circuit board, the switch can't be activated."

Brian @ DCC has been very helpful and quickly answered many e-mails of my stupid questions.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Andy,

Your pics on the first post are down...and last time I looked...so were most of the pics on your website...server problems?

mt_goat

Really, post#1? I can see them ok.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

All Red Xs for any of the pics hosted off his website...the first two work, but they aren't hosted on his website I don't think.

bamachem

yeah, server issues earlier this week - it's now working again.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I copied and pasted the links from this pic...(I can see the top two)..not there.

http://4rnr.net/6-11-05-003.jpg

Ironmike4x4

Is this on a 3.0 or did you finally swap to the 3.4? If the 3.4 then how well did the fan "snug" into the shroud?

mt_goat

You talking to me?

Ironmike4x4

Yes. I saw in your sig you were doing a 3.4 swap so that's why I was asking. Trying to get more info on a taurus fan fitting the 3.4 since flEaBAY doesn't sell too many volvo electric fans.

mt_goat

Well the 3.4 radiator won't fit into the earlier trucks, it's much wider. So I'm using the 3.0 radiator. The taurus fan fits the 3.0 radiator very nice. I don't see any way to use the stock 3.0 shroud with it though.

PoleVaulter95

is there any increased mileage or some new found power with this fan mod. im kinda getting interested. jc whitney has a electric themometer wondering if this could be used to control the fan

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Andy, I have been checking your posts about this fan mod and have done quite a bit but need some help with some potential issues. I posted in the forums but no one seems to answer my questions, they read the post but I have had like 2 replies and no one really answers my questions so maybe you or someone here can help.

Went to the local parts store and asked about the Hayden controller but they didn't have it so stopped in AutoZone where I have a good friend who works there so asked them for the best controller but also with a reasonable cost. They recommended the TorqFlo model #733647. The TorqFlo has an adjustable temperature control with a range of 150-240 degrees (factory set for 160). Unit comes with a 40 amp relay (?) and is wired to allow for dual speed control. Control of power uses wire for attachment to 12vdc ignition source or direct to the battery but they warn about running your battery down. I know a little about current draw, the control unit has an inline fuse holder for the hot lead to the battery and contains a 30 amp fuse. The relay has the following information stamped on the top of the relay '12V 30/40A'. Is this information related to the current capacity of the relay for the corresponding speeds slow/fast?

Questions:
1) If I hook this unit up as per the directions, will I run into any issues with current draw from the Ford Taurus/Lincoln fan? I have no idea the rating of the fan speeds.

2) Should I wire up both speeds per the directions? Advantages/disadvantages current draw issues?

3) Should I have it hooked up to allow for continued running after shutting off the engine? Advantages/disadvantages?

4) Would it be best to use an aux fuse box to hook the fan controller or should I go with a direct connection to the battery?

Anything else I should be aware of? Any recommendations? I don't have a large sum to put out for a high end controller such as you mentioned you used so my real concerns are the current draw. Any and all help is really appreciated. I want to try to get this mod done in time for my trip to California in about a week. Thanks