DOA Head stud HELP!
03-21-2005, 07:48 AM
#61
Contributing Member
[QUOTE=mt_goat]
Didn't mean to sound like you guys didn't understand this stuff, but I thought it would be good to take a look at the laws govering this stuff in the first place and that could help solve the problem. I meant that comment as a ha ha, so I hope no one took it as an insult (I reread it and it could be taken either way)....none was intended obviously.
BTW...I did remember you were an ME.
Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
It sounds like you have emperically come across the mechanical engineering "strength of materials" laws. QUOTE]
I believe EB is a mechanical engineer. I also have the BS in ME.
I believe EB is a mechanical engineer. I also have the BS in ME.
BTW...I did remember you were an ME.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 03-21-2005 at 07:52 AM.
03-21-2005, 07:56 AM
#62
Contributing Member
Hey Jamie I'm sure none will be taken 
Those are some nice links you came up with LOL. They might come in handy since my old strength of materials textbook is up in the attic now.
Those are some nice links you came up with LOL. They might come in handy since my old strength of materials textbook is up in the attic now.
03-21-2005, 11:47 AM
#63
It does sound like you have some very good seat of the pants experience for getting around the need to read true bolt strain though.[/QUOTE]
__________________________________________________ _____________
>>>*LOL**... That is a pretty good description of my whole life I think...I went to school, got an antique degree in M/E. *Course back then we made parts with hacksaws..(still do sometimes, now that I think about it)
I do know that the best main bolt, rod bolt, and head bolt kits all come with lube. We use the lube supplied, because of course regular oil will do exactly what you say, offer a different final value. Dry will offer another different value entirely.
Torquing fastners looks like a simple thing, but it really is a complicated process to get exactly right. Converting twisting force to actual clamp load by listening for a click on a tool we hope is correct can cause an engine builder to break a sweat when they are looking at a $15,000 piece..
It boils down to what works is correct, of course. I learned the hard way what works, so I never vary from that.
*On the question from Mt_Goat?...I think the 33 lbs ft is the initial torque load before one takes the final two 1/4 turns. That is the value I would suggest to initial set the bolt. Someone else may have a different figure, which would likely also work fine.
I just like to be sure the threads are seated, this keeps things more consistant....*EB
__________________________________________________ _____________
>>>*LOL**... That is a pretty good description of my whole life I think...I went to school, got an antique degree in M/E. *Course back then we made parts with hacksaws..(still do sometimes, now that I think about it)
I do know that the best main bolt, rod bolt, and head bolt kits all come with lube. We use the lube supplied, because of course regular oil will do exactly what you say, offer a different final value. Dry will offer another different value entirely.
Torquing fastners looks like a simple thing, but it really is a complicated process to get exactly right. Converting twisting force to actual clamp load by listening for a click on a tool we hope is correct can cause an engine builder to break a sweat when they are looking at a $15,000 piece..
It boils down to what works is correct, of course. I learned the hard way what works, so I never vary from that.
*On the question from Mt_Goat?...I think the 33 lbs ft is the initial torque load before one takes the final two 1/4 turns. That is the value I would suggest to initial set the bolt. Someone else may have a different figure, which would likely also work fine.
I just like to be sure the threads are seated, this keeps things more consistant....*EB
03-22-2005, 05:11 AM
#64
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by engnbldr
Torquing fastners looks like a simple thing, but it really is a complicated process to get exactly right. Converting twisting force to actual clamp load by listening for a click on a tool we hope is correct can cause an engine builder to break a sweat when they are looking at a $15,000 piece..
I'd be sweating too if I was building motors for $15k ea and my reputation depended on it.
I don't doubt the very high end head stud kits do come with lube...but sadly most of the OEM stuff typically doesn't.
Just wanted to make sure people don't start adding lube and using the original torque values.
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