icerunner

NICE,
its really great when its something easy or "semi easy".
Later

Cuthroat72

So, I am the second (at least) owner of this truck and there wasn't an owner's manual with the truck when I got it. Does anyone know how to program (reprogram?) the factory installed Mikado-labelled, 2 buttoned thingy on the left hand side of my dashboard next to the clutch start disconnect? Also has anyone had any trouble out of the factory locker modification that allows you to override the 4-lo only program on the rear locker?

Cuthroat72

Found the thread I was looking for about the locker mod. Now, does anyone konw how to reprogram the mikado garage door openers? I would love to get it working.

jukeit

Bah. Changed plugs first, then the wires and I'm still having the problem. I did clean my MAF about 3 months ago to correct a similar problem (only it threw a code). I cleaned it with contact cleaner from Radio Shack and I think maybe that was a mistake. It was a bit greasy and I'm afraid it may be causing problems now. I notice it the most when I'm at a stand still with the truck in gear (drive or reverse) and rpms around 600. Thoughts?

toytech76

New to the board here...Only clean you MAF with a fast drying brakekleen. Using the throttle body cleaners and such usually arn't as clean and have lubricants in them. When you throw a p0171 code, 99% of the time it's your MAF. Your running problem could also be an injector. We see alot of injectors go bad especially in the V6's. We have also been having a fair amount of coil packs go bad too. First thing tho is to figure out which cyl it's missing on

jukeit

Thanks for the input and welcome to the board. Is there a relatively easy way to determine which one is misfiring? I have no codes.

I'm leaning toward two things at this point. Re-clean the MAF with something that will get rid of the lubricant from the contact cleaner I used a few months ago. Any idea if the brakekleen do that? Next would be to purchase a coil pack and start swapping it with the existing packs.

I saw someone mention metering a coil pack. Any input on procedures for doing that is appreciated.

toytech76

If you have access to a scantool that has all functions or a mastertech scantool with toyota software, in the engine data section I know at least the mastertech will have each cylinder listed and will show misfire percentages while its running. It can show misfires even if the check eng lite isnt on. Brakekleen will clean off any crap on your MAF. After using it, blow it really good with compressed air. Don't worry...the air won't hurt it

MTL_4runner

That would be great but only big dollar scan tool equipment will have features like this AFAIK.

I'd check the resistance on the coil packs (primary and secondary) and replace the wires to ensure that wasn't the issue. I'd also use brake cleaner to clean off the MAF (I don't think that is the issue but it might be fouled from a prior cleaning). The trouble is, that this condition may be a part that has not completely failed (hence no OBD code) so it may pay to bring it to a dealer and have them run a diagnostic on it to isolate the problem.

toytech76

If thats the case then take it to a shop who has a scantool like that. Throwing parts at a car to try and fix it isn't the way to fix any car

Man4God

Aren't we all forgetting that it seems like the OP is simply lugging the engine? As I recall, in a manual transmission car, if you let the engine get anywhere between 1200 and 1800 its going to buck like that.

toytech76

not necissairily. My other 97 was a manual and never had a problem with that. I could let it idle down while in first gear and pick it back up without bucking at all

jukeit

Thanks guys. I did replace the wires and am still having the problem. I found how / where to check the coil pack resistance in a Chiltons manual. If re-cleaning the MAF does not work that will be my next approach. That will pretty much exhaust cheap fixes and will take it in for diagnostics at that point. I didn't mind doing the plugs and wires since it needed to be done anyway. I'll post the final fix when I get there. 8)

jukeit

Re-cleaned the MAF and it did need it. The oils from the first cleaner caused dirt to stick to it. The brakekleen worked very well to clean it up; however, it did not fix the problem. I checked primary and secondary resistance on the coil packs and everything was within spec. I also cleaned the throttle body and the problem is still there. I tried spraying starting fluid around the vacuum hoses, but that revealed nothing.

Something to note - the middle coil pack's boot is brownish in color as opposed to the blacker color of the other two. I also recall that when I changed plugs, that coil pack's plug was suspect. It had a thin brown vertical line on the white part of the plug. Beyond that, everything looks copisetic.

I'm taking it to the dealer for diagnostics next. My bet is on the middle coil pack. I can't believe I'm saying this, but I wish I had a CEL to help me pinpoint the problem.

toytech76

The discoloration on the coil pack boot is usually caused from a plug not being tight in its hole. We have had a run of bad coil packs lately and it seems you have the same thing. The line down the plug is probably a carbon track from the coil. Look inside the boot of the coil and see if you see a similar mark. If so...replace the coil and the plug and you should be back in business

MTL_4runner

That is pretty rare but I have seen that on a 5VZ-FE coil pack before.
It sounds like you've likely found your issue (and also why it's not throwing a CEL).

http://www.los-gatos.ca.us/davidbu/toyota.html

You could try some dielectric grease to fix the problem but if it has been going on a while, I would just replace the coil pack.

jukeit

Nice. Thanks fellas. Now I just need to determine if it's worth paying 150 bucks for a new coil pack with no garuntee that's the problem.....or pay 90 bucks for a diagnostic just in case it's something else.

97ltd4x4

yep,need to find out what cylinder is missing.

Take to autozone,have them pull codes,especially stored history codes..look for a P0300(misfire detected),and a P3001(cylinder #1 misfire detected),P03002(Cylinder #2 misfire detected),ect...through P0306(cylinder #6)...

Write all the codes down...

Back at shop/garage..Pull neg bat. cable to clear codes...

Switch coils around(something like middle to front,front to rear,Keep wires in same location)...drive vehical twice(2 trip detection) Get it to act-up on each drive...(might even see CEL blink when misfire happens)

Take back to autozone,pull codes again..write codes down...

Did the miss move to where you moved the coil too? Or to a wire on another cylinder?

This will determine if its a plug,coil or wire ...No need to guess


P.S. Long time lurker,just joined,Hello all!

toytech76

Autozone. BAH! lol

MTL_4runner

I think it would still be wise to bring it to the dealer and get them to use the Toyota's mastertech scantool since if it is a misfire, they should be able to pinpoint it exactly (ie bring up all cylinders at once, scope the coil packs while running, etc). If it comes back that you had a misfire on #4 and they recommend replacing the coil pack, then you'll know you won't waste any money fixing the problem.

The second option would be to just get a used coil pack (boneyard or ebay) and this may actually be the cheapest route, but be sure you can verify it works or you could be just trading one problem for another.

jukeit

Yeah....at this point I'm going to take it to the dealer to pinpoint the problem for sure. I'm tired of taking the sucker apart and putting it back together for this particular problem. I've got one or two more times before I'm just pissed. It's been an education though and I've learned a lot from the folks on this board. Nice.