alternator question
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In normal-speak, its simple. You will find alternators that last a very long time, and others that fail early. And, one can "cause" an alternator to fail early if you work at it.
So the real question is, what makes you think the alternator is bad?
Also note, many shot-gun artists will tell you the alternator was bad, when it was a $0.2 fuse.
Last edited by rdharper; 02-08-2007 at 12:22 PM.
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Mine went on Pritchett Canyon on yellow hill - halfway up at 10:00 PM after running my winch, PIAA's and rocklights for 30 minutes up rocker knocker, Hmm I wonder why?
(I got Boyle technologies in CA to rebuild mine for $125 and it went from 60 AMPS at Idle to about 130... It has been bomb proof since!)
(I got Boyle technologies in CA to rebuild mine for $125 and it went from 60 AMPS at Idle to about 130... It has been bomb proof since!)
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First thing to do is check the voltage on the posts of the battery with the vehicle off. Should be around 12.2-12.8v
If so, turn the vehicle on, check voltage again at the posts. Should be 13.9v or greater at idle. If not, rev the engine a tad and see if you get the proper voltage. While you are at it, check voltage at the clamps. Should be almost identical to the voltage you read at the posts.
If so, turn the vehicle on, check voltage again at the posts. Should be 13.9v or greater at idle. If not, rev the engine a tad and see if you get the proper voltage. While you are at it, check voltage at the clamps. Should be almost identical to the voltage you read at the posts.
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In both cases I replaced the battery and all was well again.
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Would it be possible to confuse a bad alternator ground for a bad alternator, fuse or battery? Would increasing the size, or guage of ground wiring on both the battery and alternator reduce drops in power under say, 1000RPM?