Salue

Yeah, you don't need that socket to switch from the ADD flanges to manual hubs. The only problem you might face is taking the cone washers off. What I did was unscrew the nuts holding the cone washers, but not unscrewing it all the way off. By doing this, you can smack the cone washers and they won't go flying off to never be found again. Hopefully you have a brass bar to smack the cone washers so that you don't damage the hub accidentally.


Salue

CTB

Wow...only $46, huh?

I'd say you got a pretty damn good deal on those hubs.

1Runner

NAH..... Cebby got screwed. I got a good deal. A buddy gave me the aisins from his 88 xtra cab. (he smoked the engine) How do ya like that Cebby?? Huh? Mister "gonna get his locking hubs on before me!!!!!"
Salue has a great idea on leaving the nuts on the studs... he had mentioned it before I went to remove the aisins. In 3-4 in. of snow, you just know I'd have lost a few cone washers before that had occured to me..... if it ever did occur to me.
Cebby, I didnt have a brass drift for removing the cone washers, so I used my brass hammer. I put the brass hammer on the stud and smacked it w/ my steel hammer. (my brass hammer is double headed) It worked great and kept my fingers well clear of the "impact zone".

Cebby

I don't think I have anything brass. Is there something else I can use? Does wood absorb too much of the impact? I might have a solid bar of aluminum laying around... Should I be concerned about beating the p$ss out of the ADD hubs to get them off? Nobody wants those darn things anyway, do they?

Just for that, I'm going to catch pnemonia and do them tonight - that'll show ya...

1Runner

Aluminum should be fine Cebby. You have to strike them harder than you would think. The wood will just splinter into nothing.
Go w/ the aluminum. Even that will get tore-up pretty good I think.

Shane

I use an old socket extension for the cone washers. Loosen the nuts about a turn, no more. Take the extension and set it against the side of a nut on the flat (perpendicular to the stud) and tap lightly with a small hammer, if the cone washer doesn't move after a few taps move on to the next one working your way around.

Doing it this way will keep from buggering up the studs, nuts, cone washers, and hub body like every other method does. It's also a hell of a lot easier, I have yet to see a hub cone washer that doesn't yeild to this method (steering arm cone washers are another matter requiring the biggest freakin' hammer known to man...).

Skydigger

I've removed 4 sets of cone washers so far (24). I didn't use anything but a hammer and a firm whack on the studs directly. I know, I know that might distort the threads but those studs are pretty tough. I whacked and then held the hammer on the stud instead of letting it bounce off in order to prevent the washers from flying out.

Worked great I might a.d.d.


Warren

Cebby

I'm ready to go. I just spent the last hour and a half greasing and assembling my hubs. Included time to "wire wheel" the cap bolts so they look purty. I'm finally ready to go. We'll see how long it takes...

Here's a shot of them all back together, ready for action:



Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences. I feel much more confident about tackling this with all of your support. Hopefully I won't be back on till I'm done!

Shane

Make sure you test them at this point to make sure they lock/unlock properly, it's easy to get a little too much grease in there and then they won't change modes because of the suction. Just a light coating is all that's needed.

1Runner

Cebby, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! I'm gonna be sick... You're gonna beat me... aint ya. Heartless.

Cebby

Wasn't too bad. Most time consuming part was of course the wonderful cone washers. As to not play favorites, I used a combination of extraction methods. I got 'em warmed up by using Shane's method (the socket extension I used kept slipping off), then used Warren's method except I did minor taps on the end of the studs (the ends of the studs are rounded over, so you really have to miss to booger up the threads), working around in a circle, maybe 6 taps per stud. After 2 or 3 revolutions, the cone washers started to break free. Nothing came flying off though. This loosened the ADD plate to where I could get a big screwdriver behind it to nudge it along. No damage to anything I'm happy to report. I went easy on the grease - read that somewhere previously too - and tested them prior to installing. I'm no speed merchant when it comes to this stuff, but I think I did OK. Not including time jacking up the truck, it took me about 50 minutes for the 1st one and 35 for the second. Overall it was considerably EASIER than I THOUGHT!! I didn't shoot any writeup pics during since it was pretty cold - I used a couple of writeups from the links posted here. They covered everything pretty well. If I ever get a spare hub , I'll do a writeup on the reassembly with good pics - it's pretty straightforward though.

Thanks again everyone for the assistance. Ahh, the power of YOTATECH!!!!



I basically did this outside, too (about 18 degrees). I can't fit my 4R in my garage, so I pulled a quarter of the nose in and cranked up the reddy heater! I wonder how cold it is in the Upper Peninsula right now... Hmmmm, now that that's DONE, I wonder what mod I should tackle next?????

Skydigger

Looks good!

I keep one of those ADD hubs that gets removed as a trail spare just in case the Aisin busts (which I seriously doubt)

Warren

1Runner

Its 11 degrees in the U.P. right now... @ 7:35 am, A$$.
I cant believe that those guys I hired to "slow you down" didnt show... what a waste of money! OH NO! I hope I didnt send them to the wrong address... what if one of your kindly old neighbors got "roughed-up" instead??
Looks good Cebby! Now you need to get on the "Cebby tail light conversion"
Cebby, what digi cam do you use? We are looking for one. I tried telling my wife that I could get a set of bushwackers w/ the money... she doesnt seem to care.

Cebby

I have an old Sony Mavica FD81 I think, that I've had for about 4 1/2 years. I paid $800, I think they sell a comparable one for $400 now. It uses 3.5 Floppies. It's been very reliance. Plus, I can set the res to 640x480 at the camera so I don't need to resize prior to posting. This one doesn't have the ability to take the memory stick, a feature which I'd like to have.

I saw an ambulance at my neighbors house this morning...

kerrs

Do you want the part # for the rear tail lights?

Kerr

Cebby

Yes please!!! (only if it isn't too much trouble...)

Thank you Kerrs!

I appreciate it!

Cebby

Warrne, thanks a great idea. I guess I won't toss them after all.

kerrs

I Phoned my dealer today to ask for part# and prices.

The price is £43.00 each +tax (17.5%)

He wouldn't give the part # though.

then I remembered this THIS

They do the lights for £36.00 +TAX

I do have one part# at work, I found a bill from when my truck had a new light fitted. But I left it at work.

If I can help anymore let me know

Kerr

Cebby

I unlocked the hubs and did some extended driving yesterday. HOLY COW !!!!! It was like a new vehicle on the street! I could not believe the improvement in acceleration without having the ADD system. Anyone considering this mod, don't hesitate any longer. I can't wait to do a gas mileage comparison once the weather breaks!

Kerrs - thanks for the info. I think I might have seen that link before from Joey, but hadn't acted on it. I sent them an em. We'll see how it shakes out. Thanks again.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Cool, I saw more power also.
I saw no increase in gas mileage though.

I lock my hubs in sometimes at the Safeway store we meet at before a run we go on.
I can notice the difference in power when they are locked in going up a hill.

This is a must do mod for the extra pep you will get, not to mention the reduced wear on your CV boots and shafts up front.