99 4runner-extended cranking time to start?
#21
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I thought the newer Toyotas have a slight delay on start to allow the oil pump pressure to build. This is to prevent wear on startup. Mine takes maybe 2 seconds too and my old older truck will start almost instantly.
#22
my 99 takes about 2 seconds as well.
it has new plugs, pcv, fuel filter, clean air filter, clean maf, clean throttle body, and clean intake and injectors thanks to seafoam.
it's always been that way. sometimes if it's good and warm and is only shut off for a few seconds, then it will fire right up, but usually, it takes a couple seconds. nature of the beast i guess.
it has new plugs, pcv, fuel filter, clean air filter, clean maf, clean throttle body, and clean intake and injectors thanks to seafoam.
it's always been that way. sometimes if it's good and warm and is only shut off for a few seconds, then it will fire right up, but usually, it takes a couple seconds. nature of the beast i guess.
#23
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Jay
I would have to do some investigation, but on the older vehicles with Vane Type Air Flow Meters the fuel pump wasnt designed to run until the engine was actually cranking. Contacts withing the air flow meter itself would complete the fuel pumps' circuit and turn it on when the air flow meter door opened. If I recall properly, this was designed to be a safetly feature. Suppose you were in an accident and the fuel line was ruptured. If the fuel pump was on with just the key in the "on" position this could pose as a safety hazard.
I feel inclined to suspect the fuel pump is still not designed to be on with just the key in the on position, on the newer toyotas as well. Given the new design of the air flow meter, I would have to guess and say they have designed a system to only operate the fuel pump when the engine rpm signal is obtained.
I feel inclined to suspect the fuel pump is still not designed to be on with just the key in the on position, on the newer toyotas as well. Given the new design of the air flow meter, I would have to guess and say they have designed a system to only operate the fuel pump when the engine rpm signal is obtained.
Why would it be beneficial to only have the fuel pump build pressure while cranking, not in the "on" position?
.....the lines are designed for full pressure so the pump should shut off once that pressure is achieved.
Have you checked the rail to watch fuel pressure at startup?
Is there a fuel pressure sensor that can be tapped into (I have not seen one in OBD, but it may be unaccessable).
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 03-11-2005 at 05:29 AM.
#25
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I would guess that a couple seconds cranking when cold is normal. Mine does turn over quickly once warm but after sitting over night it takes longer, especially if its cold out side. Maybe the oil viscosity? I might just be more aware of the cranking time after the two episodes I had where it did not start.
When I pulled the NGK plugs I checked the gaps and they were very tight .10 to .20. The manual says the gap should be .44. After I replaced the plugs with new NGK's gapped properly, my MPG increased but I still have about the same cold cranking time. I just don't want to be stuck one day with it not starting again. Again, I only have 42K miles. I will be checking cables this weekend and changing the belts once it warms up a bit here.
Thanks for the replies
When I pulled the NGK plugs I checked the gaps and they were very tight .10 to .20. The manual says the gap should be .44. After I replaced the plugs with new NGK's gapped properly, my MPG increased but I still have about the same cold cranking time. I just don't want to be stuck one day with it not starting again. Again, I only have 42K miles. I will be checking cables this weekend and changing the belts once it warms up a bit here.
Thanks for the replies
#26
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FYI...
Found an older thread regarding this same subject.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...9&page=2&pp=25
At least I feel better knowing this is more common and I'm not the only one with the same symptoms.
Found an older thread regarding this same subject.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...9&page=2&pp=25
At least I feel better knowing this is more common and I'm not the only one with the same symptoms.
Last edited by KGnagey; 03-11-2005 at 05:32 PM.
#27
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Why would it be beneficial to only have the fuel pump build pressure while cranking, not in the "on" position?
If the engine is not running or cranking, having the fuel pump runing would pose as a serious danger in the event of an accident. :fireman:
.....the lines are designed for full pressure so the pump should shut off once that pressure is achieved.
Have you checked the rail to watch fuel pressure at startup?
Is there a fuel pressure sensor that can be tapped into (I have not seen one in OBD, but it may be unaccessable).
Last edited by Jay; 03-11-2005 at 07:03 PM.
#28
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I dug this up online.
http://www.well.com/~mosk/Images/22RTE_EFI.pdf
This factory wiring diagram has two things of intrest, that I will use to give further proof to what I claim. ( older vane type air flow meter )
On page 1, youll find the air flow meter. The switch labled FC is the "Fuel Control" switch in refering to. Trace the wire one direction takes you to the computer (on page 2). The computer will provide a ground in this circuit when all parameters are met. Trace the wire the other direction leads you to the circuit opening relay. One of the circuit opening relays coils can be grounded by the FC switch in the airflow meter (indicating that the engine is turning). Also, youll see that the other coil is wired from the ignition switch (ST1). With the key turned to the start position, current can flow thru this other coil to turn on the fuel pump. (which i had forgotten, until i revisited this schematic).
In short, the fuel pump relys on the circuit opening relay to complete its circuit. The circuit opening relay can do so by recieving a ground from the air flow meter, or get a power source from the start terminal in the ignition switch.
Wish I had the real instruction manuals, Toyota teaches it better.
http://www.well.com/~mosk/Images/22RTE_EFI.pdf
This factory wiring diagram has two things of intrest, that I will use to give further proof to what I claim. ( older vane type air flow meter )
On page 1, youll find the air flow meter. The switch labled FC is the "Fuel Control" switch in refering to. Trace the wire one direction takes you to the computer (on page 2). The computer will provide a ground in this circuit when all parameters are met. Trace the wire the other direction leads you to the circuit opening relay. One of the circuit opening relays coils can be grounded by the FC switch in the airflow meter (indicating that the engine is turning). Also, youll see that the other coil is wired from the ignition switch (ST1). With the key turned to the start position, current can flow thru this other coil to turn on the fuel pump. (which i had forgotten, until i revisited this schematic).
In short, the fuel pump relys on the circuit opening relay to complete its circuit. The circuit opening relay can do so by recieving a ground from the air flow meter, or get a power source from the start terminal in the ignition switch.
Wish I had the real instruction manuals, Toyota teaches it better.
#29
Contributing Member
My '99 takes just a little longer to start up than my '95. And if it doesn't catch the first time (usually because I let off the starter a little too soon), it'll take even longer the second time. It's irritating, but I figured it had something to do with the cold start system and that behavior was programmed in somehow. The '95 always fires up quick, no matter what.
#30
My 99 limited I've had for about a year and a half also starts slow and sluggish. I can not report one other single problem with the truck. It runs great. I'll re-read the post and maybe I can offer some info.
#32
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hmm. I wonder if the clutch might be my issue too. Seemed like it would start when I pushed the clutch cancellation button, but not always.
What up with the octopus avatar?? (one of the posts on page 1)
What up with the octopus avatar?? (one of the posts on page 1)
#33
Just to echo what many have already said. I have a 2000 4Runner w/ 66K miles on it (I bought it w/ 60K miles)....It has always taken an extraordinarily long time to start as well (regardless of hot or cold temps). On a side note I have a 95' Accord w/ 177K miles on it that fires the very instant that I turn the key (even on 20 deg mornings). I hate to say it, but it's almost embarrassing having to crank my 4Runner for that long in order for it to start. Toyota has a strong reputation for reliability, but this issue really concerns me (especially so early in the life of the motor)
#34
I don't see any rationale behind what you are saying the toyota engineers designed (not that you are incorrect).
Why would it be beneficial to only have the fuel pump build pressure while cranking, not in the "on" position?
.....the lines are designed for full pressure so the pump should shut off once that pressure is achieved.
Have you checked the rail to watch fuel pressure at startup?
Is there a fuel pressure sensor that can be tapped into (I have not seen one in OBD, but it may be unaccessable).
Why would it be beneficial to only have the fuel pump build pressure while cranking, not in the "on" position?
.....the lines are designed for full pressure so the pump should shut off once that pressure is achieved.
Have you checked the rail to watch fuel pressure at startup?
Is there a fuel pressure sensor that can be tapped into (I have not seen one in OBD, but it may be unaccessable).
#35
There is a check valve in the fuel pump that prevents the fuel pressure from bleeding down when the car is turned off for long periods. These check valves can leak which requires the fuel pump to take a little longer to pressurize the lines.
It is very easy to test. Instead of getting in and turning on the engine, turn the key to "on" (not run) then off, then "on", then off...repeat a few times allow a couples seconds between turning off for the fuel pump to pressurize. after doing this a few times start as normal. If it fires right up, you have identified your problem.
Good luck.
It is very easy to test. Instead of getting in and turning on the engine, turn the key to "on" (not run) then off, then "on", then off...repeat a few times allow a couples seconds between turning off for the fuel pump to pressurize. after doing this a few times start as normal. If it fires right up, you have identified your problem.
Good luck.
#36
Registered User
When my 87's been sitting a while, a few days, I always turn the key to START, but do not push in the clutch, or the Clutch Start Cancel switch. I can hear the fuel pump "whine" when I do that.. After 10-20 seconds, the pump's tone drops a little, IE, a slightly lower whine. Once it does, I push the clutch in and VROOM! Engine fires right up.
It's also a good way to make sure the fuel pump runs when it should during the start sequence. Part of the testing if your COR or MAF are suspect.
Have fun!
Pat☺
It's also a good way to make sure the fuel pump runs when it should during the start sequence. Part of the testing if your COR or MAF are suspect.
Have fun!
Pat☺
#38
Registered User
The newer trucks, and 98 IS newer than 87, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds when you first turn the key to ON, before you go to START, to pressurize the fuel system to make it start faster and easier. Especially as the truck gets older, the anti-backflow valve in the pump can, and will, leak a little, so over a relatively long time not running, the fuel system can leak down.
This set up compensates for that, so the truck will start more quickly and easily.
Does that help?
Pat☺
This set up compensates for that, so the truck will start more quickly and easily.
Does that help?
Pat☺
#39
Registered User
Oh, I don't know. I guess my point was that I'm not sure yotainmyblood is right. If I leave my key in the on position, there is a buzzing, which I always thought was the fuel pump. Constantly. It does not stop. I don't know for sure, that was just my understanding. I'm not sure his information is accurate for the forum he's posting in, being 95.5-2005. But I'm not an expert, could be wrong. My truck has always been this way.
#40
Oh, I don't know. I guess my point was that I'm not sure yotainmyblood is right. If I leave my key in the on position, there is a buzzing, which I always thought was the fuel pump. Constantly. It does not stop. I don't know for sure, that was just my understanding. I'm not sure his information is accurate for the forum he's posting in, being 95.5-2005. But I'm not an expert, could be wrong. My truck has always been this way.
Last edited by Yotainmyblood; 03-26-2021 at 11:41 AM.