$500 good deal on RR Diff lock?
12-16-2006, 01:13 PM
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Help with RR Diff lock install
My friend is buying a 96 LTD 4runner with the factory RR diff lock in it. He told me he would be willing to sell it to me with all the factory wiring, button, ext. I plan to probably just swap rear axles with him so I don't have to modify mine. I plan on doing all the work myself I just have a few questions about the swap. I'm not worried about the axle swap for I have done many but I haven't ever had to wire an RR Diff lock from one 4runner to another. Is this going to be a difficult task? I'm looking at different harnesses and idea's and wondering how hard they are going to be to install. I'm considering paying downey $160 for their manual cable locking thing just because I haven't ever messed with wiring an E-locker. Any idea's would be great. Thanks for your help.
Last edited by ADH8796; 12-20-2006 at 09:20 AM.
12-16-2006, 03:35 PM
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There is a kit for a manual pull on that e locker if u don't want to run all the wiring for the locker, i forget who makes it hopefully some one else can post up and help you out.
12-16-2006, 04:24 PM
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Inchworm is the company you need to get with to get the wiring harness. I used it for mine and it bypasses all the factory speed contol sensors and you can use the locker while in 2wd as well. plus you dont have to deal with the factory ecu.
12-16-2006, 09:57 PM
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Do I need the (Electrical Locker control kit) or the Electrical locker harness? Easy to install?
Last edited by ADH8796; 12-16-2006 at 10:09 PM.
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12-16-2006, 09:58 PM
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I would really be interested to see how this works does anyone have extra info?
Last edited by ADH8796; 12-16-2006 at 10:15 PM.
12-17-2006, 03:28 AM
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12-17-2006, 09:08 AM
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12-17-2006, 12:26 PM
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12-18-2006, 08:40 AM
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This manual cable that downey makes for the E-locker looks kind of cool I got in touch with downey and they said the cable with all hardware would run me about $159.00 and another $25.00 for shipping. So I'm probably just going to do the Inchworm thing for $75 ish I just hope it's not to hard to install.
Last edited by ADH8796; 12-18-2006 at 09:55 AM.
12-20-2006, 09:09 AM
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12-20-2006, 02:55 PM
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Keep in mind that his rig will be a 4.30 ratio and your rig might be 4.10. That means you will have to swap out the front and rear from both rigs. That's a lot of work. Ask me how I know... 
As for your wiring question, I found the easiest thing to do was to just get the OEM ABS/locker "ECU" and wire it up that way. If you take it from the donor rig though, it will cause the ABS light to come on. Not good. Took me a couple tries, but I got the wiring harness built and everything up and running. I found the ECU here on YT from a member for $50. You might be able to find out what the dealer wants by getting a hold of Strap22 here on YT. I wanted the stock look so I didn't mess with the inchworm stuff.
As for your wiring question, I found the easiest thing to do was to just get the OEM ABS/locker "ECU" and wire it up that way. If you take it from the donor rig though, it will cause the ABS light to come on. Not good. Took me a couple tries, but I got the wiring harness built and everything up and running. I found the ECU here on YT from a member for $50. You might be able to find out what the dealer wants by getting a hold of Strap22 here on YT. I wanted the stock look so I didn't mess with the inchworm stuff.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 12-20-2006 at 02:58 PM.
12-21-2006, 04:59 AM
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Well the swap is done and so far no problems I'm still working on getting the locker fixed up. You said "his rig will be a 4.30 ratio and your rig might be 4.10" I drove it today with no problems but I want to check both our rear axles how do I do this? Or would something have already blown up?
12-21-2006, 05:42 AM
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Keep in mind that his rig will be a 4.30 ratio and your rig might be 4.10. That means you will have to swap out the front and rear from both rigs. That's a lot of work. Ask me how I know...
As for your wiring question, I found the easiest thing to do was to just get the OEM ABS/locker "ECU" and wire it up that way. If you take it from the donor rig though, it will cause the ABS light to come on. Not good. Took me a couple tries, but I got the wiring harness built and everything up and running. I found the ECU here on YT from a member for $50. You might be able to find out what the dealer wants by getting a hold of Strap22 here on YT. I wanted the stock look so I didn't mess with the inchworm stuff.
As for your wiring question, I found the easiest thing to do was to just get the OEM ABS/locker "ECU" and wire it up that way. If you take it from the donor rig though, it will cause the ABS light to come on. Not good. Took me a couple tries, but I got the wiring harness built and everything up and running. I found the ECU here on YT from a member for $50. You might be able to find out what the dealer wants by getting a hold of Strap22 here on YT. I wanted the stock look so I didn't mess with the inchworm stuff.
Good point here. Most of the rigs that came pre-loaded with the lockers were running 4.30 gearing. I had to find a 4.30 front diff as well and swap both ends out, because mine came with 4.10's from the factory. i would swap the front diff as well to be on the safe side.
12-21-2006, 05:55 AM
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Good point here. Most of the rigs that came pre-loaded with the lockers were running 4.30 gearing. I had to find a 4.30 front diff as well and swap both ends out, because mine came with 4.10's from the factory. i would swap the front diff as well to be on the safe side.
12-21-2006, 12:23 PM
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It's a lot harder in my opinion. It's a bit easier if you both have body lifts, but not much.
Don't just swap them to be safe. Double check it. Swapping the fronts really sucks. Plan for a whole day if you are a good wrencher.
Don't just swap them to be safe. Double check it. Swapping the fronts really sucks. Plan for a whole day if you are a good wrencher.
12-21-2006, 02:26 PM
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Well the swap is done and so far no problems I'm still working on getting the locker fixed up. You said "his rig will be a 4.30 ratio and your rig might be 4.10" I drove it today with no problems but I want to check both our rear axles how do I do this? Or would something have already blown up?
Block front tires
Put transmission in neutral
Release emergency brake
Jack up one rear wheel
Turn the wheel X number of times and count how many complete rotations the driveshaft makes
Do the same on the other rig and compare. If the driveshaft rotations are different then you have different gear ratios.
