4th Gen 15k Maintenance - Lessons learned
04-25-2004, 05:47 PM
#62
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Yes...a hammer.
How else do you expect me to get a bolt out that is on so tight that I can pull on it for several minutes straight without it moving the tiniest little bit? Then tap, followed by pound, on the wrench with a hammer for another couple and still not get it to move.
When some stupid dealer puts that bolt on this tight, unless I have that same super air gun, I don't see how else I could get it off.
I know plenty of tricks for getting screws, bolts, and nuts out/off but none that work in this situation. If you know of something, please do share I would be very glad to hear it.
And I did figure out that it is a 24mm bolt, thanks.
How else do you expect me to get a bolt out that is on so tight that I can pull on it for several minutes straight without it moving the tiniest little bit? Then tap, followed by pound, on the wrench with a hammer for another couple and still not get it to move.
When some stupid dealer puts that bolt on this tight, unless I have that same super air gun, I don't see how else I could get it off.
I know plenty of tricks for getting screws, bolts, and nuts out/off but none that work in this situation. If you know of something, please do share I would be very glad to hear it.
And I did figure out that it is a 24mm bolt, thanks.
Last edited by Sabony; 04-25-2004 at 05:48 PM.
04-25-2004, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Sabony
Does anyone remember what was the size of the bolt on the rear differential and the transfer case. I was able to get the transfer case ones off with a multi-size wrench, but the rear ones are on so tight, the wrench and a hammer still won't get it too budge and I am hoping that a socket and a hammer might do it better.
Thanks.
Thanks.
05-08-2004, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Lefty
I already had the lube for the driveshafts... Steve
05-08-2004, 03:30 PM
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just got done changing diff oil in front and rear diffs and transfer case. capacities i got were:
1.5 qts in the front diff
3.5 qts in the rear diff
1.5 qts in the transfer case.
i used amsoil SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube, amsoil part #AGL-QT. i also lubed the driveline w/valvoline lithium-based chassis lube.
if you have not done this yet for your 15k, do it now. as others in this thread have found, the oil i drained was grey & nasty, and the drain plug magnet had pulled a good 3/8" of metal grit out of the muck. the transfer case oil was still in pretty good shape -- a sort of dirty gold color still.
1.5 qts in the front diff
3.5 qts in the rear diff
1.5 qts in the transfer case.
i used amsoil SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube, amsoil part #AGL-QT. i also lubed the driveline w/valvoline lithium-based chassis lube.
if you have not done this yet for your 15k, do it now. as others in this thread have found, the oil i drained was grey & nasty, and the drain plug magnet had pulled a good 3/8" of metal grit out of the muck. the transfer case oil was still in pretty good shape -- a sort of dirty gold color still.
05-08-2004, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ahriman
just got done changing diff oil in front and rear diffs and transfer case. capacities i got were:
1.5 qts in the front diff
3.5 qts in the rear diff
1.5 qts in the transfer case.
i used amsoil SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube, amsoil part #AGL-QT. i also lubed the driveline w/valvoline lithium-based chassis lube.
if you have not done this yet for your 15k, do it now. as others in this thread have found, the oil i drained was grey & nasty, and the drain plug magnet had pulled a good 3/8" of metal grit out of the muck. the transfer case oil was still in pretty good shape -- a sort of dirty gold color still.
1.5 qts in the front diff
3.5 qts in the rear diff
1.5 qts in the transfer case.
i used amsoil SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube, amsoil part #AGL-QT. i also lubed the driveline w/valvoline lithium-based chassis lube.
if you have not done this yet for your 15k, do it now. as others in this thread have found, the oil i drained was grey & nasty, and the drain plug magnet had pulled a good 3/8" of metal grit out of the muck. the transfer case oil was still in pretty good shape -- a sort of dirty gold color still.
05-08-2004, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Pitbull
Sounds like you should do the diff's at 15K with synthetic and the transfercase at 30K miles. I use to be able to just crawl under my 1995 FZJ80 and do the diff's and transfercase. Can you do that with the 4runner or is it too low to the ground? Also with my FZJ80 it was easy to change, drain plug at bottom of diffs and fill plug at 1/2 way up the cover. Screw them off and drain and then just fill it up till it started to run out the fill hole. Is the 4runner the same? I guess I should buy a service manual, but they are so expensive.
so the transfer case could probably go even longer than 30k depending on your off-road/extreme usage, but you may as well change 'em all if you are changing one. i think the recommended fill level is 1/8" below the filler hole, but i just filled til it dribbled out. i have a 4th gen, and if i did not put it up on ramps the space underneath would have been...intimate. the drain and filler plug locations are about the same as your fzj; front: hex key plugs, rear and transfer case: 24mm socket/wrench plugs.
05-09-2004, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ahriman
1.5 qts in the front diff
3.5 qts in the rear diff
1.5 qts in the transfer case.
3.5 qts in the rear diff
1.5 qts in the transfer case.
3.5 in the rear? You know what guys, I filled it until it started to spill, and I only got 2.95. Did I do something wrong, because it spilling and I looked inside with a flash light and it was even with the fill hole. But then again I don't have a 4WD, does that make a difference?
05-09-2004, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Yosmany
3.5 in the rear? You what guys, I filled it until it started to spill, and I only got 2.95. Did I do something wrong, because it spilling and I looked inside with a flash light and it was even with the fill hole. But then again I don't have a 4WD, does that make a difference?
05-09-2004, 07:41 PM
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Just did mine today, I got 1.5 in the front and transfer and 3.25 in the rear. So 3 should be just fine. At least all my bolts on the drive shaft was tight.
I put grease in the yokes and noticed that it starts to extend the driveshafts before anything came out at the yokes so I stopped. So I opened the grease nipple and some grease came out but only a little bit. So I drove around gently to let it settle in. Haven't felt the driveline jerk for a whil so I hope this fixes it permanently or at least for the next 20k miles.
At least having a lift and bigger tires helped as I could get underneath without having to jack up the Runner.
I put grease in the yokes and noticed that it starts to extend the driveshafts before anything came out at the yokes so I stopped. So I opened the grease nipple and some grease came out but only a little bit. So I drove around gently to let it settle in. Haven't felt the driveline jerk for a whil so I hope this fixes it permanently or at least for the next 20k miles.
At least having a lift and bigger tires helped as I could get underneath without having to jack up the Runner.
05-09-2004, 08:03 PM
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i am going to make it a habit to give each fitting a splork or two when i change the oil, that should keep everything good and lubed.
and there is definitely motivation to get my lift done...
At least having a lift and bigger tires helped as I could get underneath without having to jack up the Runner.
05-20-2004, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by The Dutch Man
I purchased a cabin filter for $13 and replace my year old one. Boy, was it disgusting! A definate recommend and very easy to do. Just follow the instructions in your Operators manual that came with the truck.
So i just purchased the A/C filter for $13.50 on ebay, and I only received the filter element. I know the A/C filter has the plastic casing that allows it to snap into place. Is it supposed to come with that or am I supposed to be reusing the casing. I looked on partznet.com, and I can't distinguish the difference either. Here is there pic...
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...15&catalogid=2
Dutchman did you just replace the element?
Is this the same A/C filter that Toyota dealerships sell for $37?
Last edited by Yosmany; 05-20-2004 at 06:31 PM.
05-21-2004, 06:34 PM
#74
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Yosmany,
For $13.00 you only get the filter. You just reuse the plastic casing. The filter only fits under 4 or so tabs on the plastic housing. Takes all of about 2 minutes to change. $37, what a rip off!. Yos, just look in your owners manual. It tells you how to change the filter in there.
Dutchman
For $13.00 you only get the filter. You just reuse the plastic casing. The filter only fits under 4 or so tabs on the plastic housing. Takes all of about 2 minutes to change. $37, what a rip off!. Yos, just look in your owners manual. It tells you how to change the filter in there.
Dutchman
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